We use that wheeler bubble kit. It works good. In a pinch, I've just used extra magnetic levelers from Harbor freight.
We use that wheeler bubble kit. It works good. In a pinch, I've just used extra magnetic levelers from Harbor freight.
"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
I just use bubble levels to get the scope close. I then verify level and plumb with the reticle using a known, marked crosshatch in the shop.
I use a cheap set of bubbles like these.
https://www.amazon.com/Gunsmith-Leve...s=Bubble+level
The Spuhr wedge system is the easiest and most foolproof system, but it only works with rings.
https://spuhrwebshop.com/en/spares/a-0080-81.html
Last edited by hk_shootr; 05-16-18 at 13:02.
Proper Planing Prevents Piss Poor Performance.......
Feeler gauges are all you need to level a scope
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The flashlight method has always served me well.
Level the rifle, make sure that it is secure (sandbags and locking the rotation on the bipod usually does the trick.
Shine a flashlight through the objective lense back through the scope so that the light comes out of the ocular lense.
It will project an image of your cross hairs onto the wall behind the rifle.
Hang a plumbob to determine if the cross hairs are level, adjust as needed.
No matter which of the methods you use, if you are really serious about getting the scope level, you need to make sure to test it.
Good Luck!
"Air Force / Policeman / Fireman / Man of God / Friend of mine / R.I.P. Steve Lamy"
Absolutely, this way you KNOW that the reticle is level to the rifle, regardless of the orientation of the scope itself.
MIL/MIL. 20 MOA if the majority of the shooting is going to be done past 500y/m with the 5.56. You don't need bubble levels... just use the feeler gauge method or even playing cards as shims to level the underside of the scope body (where its machined flat) level with the Scope mount itself.
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