3 Noveske recievers scrapped this week- Help please.

[grizzman]

If you decide to try a 4th time, I'll loan you my Reaction Rod to take the vice out of the equation.

[directimpingement]

I think they are defective! I noticed that the barrels were super snug, like almost a press fit. I figured it was the cerakote, but no problem right? Then all 3 uppers break at the exact place. Bad batch.

Just to throw this out there, I have several uppers that have a tight tolerance where the barrel extension goes in, so I don't know that, that's necessarily an "issue" IMO. Lugs breaking at 28 ft lbs, would make me wonder though.

[Hammer_Man]

I've used Noveske receivers on at least 4 builds without issue, one as recently as last week. I suspect their forged receivers are made by Mega, which is not junk by any means.

[elephant]

You can bet your sweet ass than I just made my gun dealer roll his ass out of bed and open up for me to buy an off the shelf Noveske upper. Luckily this was not a stripped upper, but came with a Noveske marked forward assist and a dust cover. I am in full Mythbusters mode tonight.


nov1.jpg

nov2.jpg

nov3.jpg

nov4.jpg

This will be my third attempt tonight, and 4th this week. No ones going to bed until this is complete!

[jackblack73]

No offense, but if you break three receivers the only one I would blame is you. I don't believe one broke at only 28 ft lbs either. Something is wrong with your torque wrench. I also can't believe that after breaking one you didn't use a different block. It's pretty obvious looking at that block that it will put a lot of stress on the lugs. You should use either a clam shell type or a reaction rod. Let someone else more mechanically inclined work on your guns.

[elephant]

No offense, but if you break three receivers the only one I would blame is you. I don't believe one broke at only 28 ft lbs either. Something is wrong with your torque wrench. I also can't believe that after breaking one you didn't use a different block. It's pretty obvious looking at that block that it will put a lot of stress on the lugs. You should use either a clam shell type or a reaction rod. Let someone else more mechanically inclined work on your guns.

Im just going to act like you didn't say that. I forgive you brother!



Just to get a quick reference, I took my Colt and my calipers and did some measuring. This is the "keyhole" upper that Colt and KAC as well as others use.

This is the new Noveske upper I just got tonight
c1.jpg

This is a Colt upper
c2.jpg
almost a 2mm difference in material

This is the broke Noveske Upper
c3.jpg

This is a Colt upper
c4.jpg
almost 1.7mm of difference.


It could possibly be the URX4 rail, it doesn't require a barrel nut, the rail itself is the barrel nut and you have to use shims to get it to align to TDC. I just thought of that.

[MQ105]

3rd times the charm:

I have now destroyed all 3 of my Noveske uppers: This last and final one snapped both lugs completely off at 28lbs and I was at TDC. Somethings going on. Is this a bad batch of uppers? I know they have Noveskes mark on them, but who makes these?Made in China? These are just plain junk, 1 upper is an accident, all 3 at less than 50lbs of torque? and I just had to destroy my brand new day old URX4 to remove from upper to salvage barrel.

I am curious as to why you would contiue to use the block that attaches by the pins now that you know it is not the correct fixture for the job... ?

Also, check your torque wrench.

[elephantrider]

How are you clamping the receiver/vise block in the vise? Are you just clamping the base of the vise block, and the receiver sitting on the block via the pins? Or, are you rotating the receiver and block 90 degrees w/ respect to the vise, and clamping the block/receiver as one unit, horizontally in the vise? I'd recommend the latter if you have the jaw width on your vise. I've done this with a rubber vise jaw pad protecting the receiver top rail. Some company, or another sells a hard delrin cover that fits over the picatinny rail for this method.

Those Noveske uppers may well be total shite (I've had my bout with Noveske specs in the past, never again), or it could be a combination of factors, like any great disaster. Just keep in mind Einstein's definition of insanity before you go any farther.

[elephant]

I am curious as to why you would contiue to use the block that attaches by the pins now that you know it is not the correct fixture for the job... ?

I have built over 50 uppers using the same vise block without a problem. But for the uppers to break the lugs or crack at the lugs at such low torque seemed odd to me. At first, I just figured it was a random fluke. I wasn't even mad, threw it away and got another one. When it broke, I thought I was doing something wrong.

I watched a KAC video on youtube on how to install the URX4 and I was doing it right. Used the shims as the directions suggested and everything was good until I put some muscle into it. 3rd one broke and I thought this may be a quality issue. I used calipers on my KAC and Colt as reference and compared those dimensions to the new noveske and the 2 that are broke and I realized that though it may not be a quality issue, but the uppers I broke simply did not have the same dimensions as far as wall thickness as the other uppers that I have.

They simply don't have enough meat on them. But at the same time, I am installing a rail that acts as a barrel nut and requires a special clamp to align to TDC. That clamp may put too much stress on the lugs and the entire receiver as a whole. I have a plastic clam shell, that I used to disassemble. . I ordered a reaction rod from Geiselle tonight.

[Rdot]

Excuse my ignorance as I've never installed a URX rail, but why couldn't/didn't you use the clam shell block for the install?

ETA: The tight fit between the receiver and barrel is desirable. Use a heat gun/hair dryer to warm up the receiver and the barrel will press in by hand.