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Thread: Adding My First Dedicated Weaponlight; Need Helpful Advice

  1. #11
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    After playing with a good number of lights I've pretty much settled on one of two options, separated primarily on how much you're willing to spend.

    The first (& economic) choice is a Surefire G2 (or G2LED) w/ upgraded head in some sort of scout mount. The G2 LED comes with a metal bezel as opposed to the standard G2's plastic one. In addition to being stronger, I've heard that the metal bezel dissipates heat better and in turn somehow results in longer life. Just what I'd heard.

    You should be able to swing this for between $100-160 depending on options.



    The other choice is a Surefire X300. For a straight out the box solution, this one is king. Excellent spill, excellent throw, excellent mounting options. It also comes in the smallest package available for almost any weaponlight. Don't kid yourself into thinking that this is only good as a pistol light, it's right at home on a rifle, with or without a vert grip.

    You ought to be able to find this for $180-220 depending on the retailer.




    With the G2/mount combo the advantages are that you can always upgrade the bulb as newer generations of LEDs are available. I've also heard that the newer R2 generation LEDs have ~5 hours of runtime with comparable output to the X300 (with only 1-2 hours if I recall). My upgraded G2 has marginally better throw than the X300 at the cost of noticeably less spill. This would also be a better option for someone as broke as I am who needs to piece things together $40 at a time.

    With the X300 you're getting an all around fantastic light that can be mounted on ANYTHING. With great throw, great spill, and reasonable battery life, it does everything very very well. It's well suited to the no muss/no fuss/give me the best & give it to me now kind of person. Also, the X300 works very well when trying to decide on "to vert grip, or not to vert grip", while with a G2 you really want to settle on a single type of mount, either a grip & offset or no grip & a standard.
    Last edited by MisterWilson; 10-28-08 at 01:29.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BushmasterFanBoy View Post
    ...I can only imagine the extra stuff that would get shoved into my sight picture with an X300 in place.

    Any ideas on the side mounted light that can be actuated on the rear with a "clicker"? Or does the 12 O' clock X300 reign supreme enough to warrant the crowded sight picture?
    An x300 mounted @ 12 o'clock sits underneath your front sight - no clutter at all (aside from that pesky front sight post)... Reference this pic from your previous light thread


    *photo courtesy of gotm4

  3. #13
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    While the X300 is a great choice it may present some problems for you. First, if you want to run it proper you will need to run it with a tail cap and a tape switch like the XT07. They are not cheap. I don’t know of any other way you can run the light and still maintain use of the VFG. Second that combo is going to eat up about 4.5" of rail space putting your Troy flip up almost on top of your Aimpoint seeing it appears your running a LT 9.0 rail.

    I think Dennis posted your best options. You may find that mounting the light at either 3 or 9 o'clock works best when trying to run the light with your left and right using the VFG. Some if it will come down to size of your hands and dexterity.

    Best advice, take the class and try whatever set up you come up with. Great thing about the class is you will most likely find the flaws and shortcomings of the set up while not being shot at. I’m sure you will also see many light options there that the other students are running and in most cases all will let you try their set ups.

    Remember the goal is to be able to illuminate the target for ID purposes and be in control of when the light goes on and when it doesn’t.

  4. #14
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    As TheKatar and LinderTW have said 12 o'clock is ideal.

    A X200/300 at 12 o'clock is small light and very bright it won't be blocked if shooting around barricades. I run all 3 of my SBRs this way and on guns that I can't I use the x300s at 12 o'clock I use the offset VLTOR mount with the light at 11 o'clock. That way my index is pretty much the same and I activate the light on both types of set ups with my support hand thumb. On the ARs I use the stubby Tangodown forward grip as a handstop to locate my support hand.






    Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
    Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)

  5. #15
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    Both lights pictured are very good and will get the job done. Ifyou dont want to go to the 12 oclock with an X200/300 the best bang for the buck is a Surefire G2 in either a Vltor or Vtac mount as previously stated. I personally prefer the Vltor and I use their scout mount (not the offset mount). But, if the offset mount had been available when I got my scout mount, I'd probably have tried one on one of my ARs

  6. #16
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    Wow, tons of information here.
    This is really great, thanks everyone!

    I may try the X300 12 O'Clock on my other carbine which features a much longer rail (13.2) and I wouldn't be scrunching in the front sight sight much.

    One question that I have is why is there such a price discrepancy between a modified Surefire G2 with VLTOR offset mount and the Surefire Scout light featured on LaRue's website? Having bought accessories for the AR15 for awhile, there is a natural tendency for me to look at it as; "You get what you pay for".
    Does that rule not apply here, or is it merely a matter of choosing the right tool for the right job and it just so happens that the cheaper hammer is in fact better?
    I was just alarmed at why the Scout light is so much more costly compared to the seemingly more popular G2?

    Once again, appreciate the advice!
    Aimpoint M4S- Because your next Aimpoint battery hasn't been made yet.

  7. #17
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    You do get what you pay for, but the scout light has a marketing/design premium on it and unfortunately it's mounting design is now dated and was always a bit lacking (bulky side mounting, less comfortable with vert grips) and has been superseded for less, which is the norm in this economy.

    So yes, I guess the cheaper hammer is just better in this case!

    If you want to go G2, get a G2-LED with aluminum head so you can better use the whole range of available LED drop ins. (Malkoff!) If you really want a clicky, you can add that later since I don't think any SF 1" lights come standard with one. I actually prefer the G2 for weight, some shock absorption, and more solid set screw mounting (VTAC/VLTOR), although I have lotsa 6V SF tac lights sitting around that have been pressed into use since I already got em!

    Enjoy,

    Dennis.

  8. #18
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    I picked up a few SF scout lights back in the day for a steal of a deal, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to afford them.

    While I cannot comment on the new bulbs, the older model had the most spill of any light I've ever played with, but didn't have any throw past your driveway.

  9. #19
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    i like the scout arrangement. i have one with the Malkoff lamp. an important part of the scout is the protected switch to prevent AD's with your light.



    i have just reconfigured one ar to try the 12:00 position of an x300. i'm also employing the rail mounted switch. the switch/vfg combo is not as easy to use as the scout/vfg. as you need to put sideways pressure on the switch to activate it instead of a natural forward pressure. but it is more compact and easier to get light around cover.

    a personal preference: i do not like the x300 (without tape switch) at 9:00. the switch is too sensitive and i get alot of AD's with the light. i tried it for a short while like this:

    Last edited by theJanitor; 10-29-08 at 13:04.
    "you give peace a chance, I'll stay here and cover you, in case it doesn't work out"

  10. #20
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    My beautiful daughter with my setup. Blackhawk Gladius light in a Vltor Scout mount. Mounted it on the left so I could have it high enough to clear the bottom of the forend (to be able to rest it over the top of a barricade) and still be able to accuate it with my left thumb. If I shoot support side I cradle the forearm in the web of my right fist and hit the light with my right thumb.

    One feature of the Gladius is the ability to lock it out and prevent A/D's, however it takes very little manipulation to turn it on, then you have 3 different modes to choose from (my favorite being the strobe). I am a big Surefire fan, however this light has proven very handy and cost effective. Got the light on sale and combined with the mount I am into it for just over $200, Versus the $390 I was considering for a Surefire M96.

    Only word of caution with this setup is.. if you are shooting around the right side of a barricade you have to get out far enough so the light does not light up your barricade and blind YOU.


    Last edited by CAPT KIRK; 10-29-08 at 22:28.
    "God made Cops, so Firemen could have Heroes."
    "We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm."

    Praise be to the LORD my Rock, who trains my hands for war, my fingers for battle. Psalm 144:1

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