headspace guages with relief cuts

[msedward43]

Does anyone know of any mfger that makes headspace guages that are like the military guages that have are relief cut so you don't have to take out of the ejector??? I remember Bill Ricca used to sell some in the past, but for some reason most civilian guages are rimmed and require you to pull the ejector and the extractor out to check a rifle.

I've never had a problem using good parts and when tossing a fresh bolt into a fresh upper from good mfgers, but I would love to get a set of guages to check headspace in future builds, as well as to check some that have had a good chunk of rounds through them (no-go and field)... but knocking out that ejector pin isn't something I relish (extractor is easy).


so, long story short. Is there a way in this day and age where you can get a set of guages that specifically allow for the ejector to stay in place when head spacing ??

[HKGuns]

I keep a new, known good bolt with ejector and extrator removed to check head space. While it isn't the perfect solution, it is how I get around it since I don't have a mill.

Doesn’t answer your question but an alternative to consider.

[Disciple]

for some reason most civilian guages are rimmed and require you to pull the ejector and the extractor out to check a rifle.

Truly necessary? https://mansonreamers.com/using-mans...dspace-gauges/

When checking headspace, ideally the bolt or slide should be stripped of anything that could cause a false reading (extractor, ejector plunger). Practically speaking, this isn’t always possible. Suggestions are given below for each type of firearm. Needless to say, these checks must be done on an UNLOADED gun, with a clean chamber and bolt.

Rifles:

With the bolt locked open, carefully fit the rim of the gauge under the extractor and center the gauge within the action–with plunger-type ejectors, you’ll have to counteract the spring pressure to hold it central. Make sure the plunger can be pushed below the bolt face—it may be too long, or jammed with crud and protrude to give a false gauge reading. Slowly close the action on the gauge while holding it centered within the chamber. The action should fully close on the “GO” gauge; it should not close on the “NO GO” or “FIELD” gauge.

[prepare]

The easy button is find a local machine shop and have them make those relief cuts for you.

Mine were machined and they are so much handier.

[Kadelic]

I have set of Clymer 5.56x45 go/no-go gauges I got from Brownells that have the relief cuts. The pictures on the site don't show these cuts on the 5.56x45 gauges, but they show on the 6.45x47 Lapua.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...76-191550.aspx

I don't have a field gauge, and haven't seen one that's been relieved. I work as a CNC mill machinist and could relieve one or a set pretty easily.

[msedward43]

The easy button is find a local machine shop and have them make those relief cuts for you.

Mine were machined and they are so much handier.

yeah, I've heard that.

I'm simply surprised that more gauges don't come that way from the factory. especially since the military ones are.

I'ts just frustrating because the extractor is easy,...hand pressure and push it out with a hand punch. but I have a milk shake in my dominate hand and it makes it REALLY hard to get out the extractor without slipping and dinging it with the punch that It would be so much easier with the military gauge that allows it to stay in while checking headspace for a new bolt etc.