9mm Non-dedicated Rig

[1168]

I believe they stated that because the standard carbine tube is 3/4” shorter than the A5/rifle tube, the spacer will eliminate the use of the bolt catch with said carbine system.

Appreciate your time explaining this, I’ve built a few 556 ARs, but this is new territory.

After sleeping on it, I will probably go with the A5 system I’ve got in the parts bin. Makes sense to me because I will be running shorter barrels/gas systems on the pistol lower; I feel like the A5 would tame any higher felt recoil from the shorter uppers.

Any given spacer will have the same effect on a carbine buffer and tube as it will with an A5 buffer and tube. Definitely nothing wrong with using an A5 for this. I’d have to measure again later, but you can probably simply use your A5 buffer in a standard carbine tube and spring. I’ll review the thread tonight to refresh myself on what you already have on hand to get you started. Half the point of a PCC is saving money shooting.

[CrowCommand]

So I took off the carbine buffer tube and installed the a5 with rifle spring, and BCM T3 6.5oz buffer.

Stacked $2.50 in quarters at the base of the tube, just enough so bolt clears the bolt catch.

I’ve got to take the upper to the gun shop to torque the barrel nut, because my receiver block only works with lugged barrel extensions.

Then function test, RDS, sling, maybe white light.
Going to run barrel at 16” just out of curiosity before I have it cut to 10.5” Just picked up a cheap KAK blast can to give it the faux suppressor look.

Many thanks 1168, you are an asset to the forum.

[1168]

So I took off the carbine buffer tube and installed the a5 with rifle spring, and BCM T3 6.5oz buffer.

Stacked $2.50 in quarters at the base of the tube, just enough so bolt clears the bolt catch.

I’ve got to take the upper to the gun shop to torque the barrel nut, because my receiver block only works with lugged barrel extensions.

Then function test, RDS, sling, maybe white light.
Going to run barrel at 16” just out of curiosity before I have it cut to 10.5” Just picked up a cheap KAK blast can to give it the faux suppressor look.

Many thanks 1168, you are an asset to the forum.

You’re welcome; glad I could help.

For installing PCC barrels, clamp two pieces of wood together and drill a hole at the seam between them, so that each has a half-pipe shape. Use a drill slightly smaller in diameter than your barrel. Then you can use the wood as a barrel vice block.

[CrowCommand]

So great results today at the range. Only one real hiccup, it didn’t like feeding the 124gr Gold Dot hollow points. The round failed to feed, and bent the ejector of the endomag a bit. I think if it was colder it would have broke (they’re plastic). After that it was strictly S&B 115gr RN and my 124 gr Missouri Bullet Company coated LRN reloads.

Definitely odd shooting 9mm out of a rifle….I was impressed at how quiet it was with the 16” barrel, just a bit louder than a .22LR with high velocity rounds.

I zeroed the cheap Vortex RDS at 25yds, and was surprised to see it have the same POA/POI at 100yds. So from there we moved to 200yds….a bit of a hold over but got some hits on an 10” steel swinger, more on the bigger steel deer silhouette. Hold over was around 24”

Then we thought why not try for 300yds? Never thought I would be sending 115s and 124s out to 300 and make hits. Granted, it was a life size buffalo steel silhouette. Hits were just barely audible, and I’d imagine the energy left in the bullet at that range would be similar to a Nerf gun at 20’.

Going forward, looking at getting a few more spare Endomags, because as some above mentioned, they will most likely fail at some point, not the most robust units. Not a big deal for a fun gun, this thing will save me from burning up my good 5.56, and still have all the same controls.

Next, upgrade RDS, probably throw a white light on there too. And of course, rattle can.