Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Securing Tape Switches

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia
    Posts
    2,561
    Feedback Score
    17 (100%)

    Securing Tape Switches

    Random query:

    To any of you guys still using tape switches:

    What are you using to secure them? TangoDown products? Electrical tape? Heat shrink tubing?

    Anyone got pics?
    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Our president is a Tier 1 JOKE!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    192
    Feedback Score
    7 (100%)
    I've used electrical tape but right now on the cruiser rifles I'm using an elastic/velcro band made for the purpose by The Wilderness. They call it a Tactical Light Switch Keeper.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    7,959
    Feedback Score
    23 (100%)
    I've used everything from electrical tape to epoxy.

    Lots of our stuff comes with adhesive velcro, but once you use it it can be a pain in the ass to get more unless you go outside the normal channels. The biggest problem with the velcro is the adhesive- once you put it on you can't relocate the velcro, and cleaning stuff weakens the adhesion. I am not saying that about all velcro adhesive, just the stuff that came with our IR devices.

    I am going to try out some 3M Dual-Lock and see how that does.

    BTW- if you are just sticking it to a VFG, an old innertube works great. I used to use this method back in the day.
    Last edited by Failure2Stop; 03-04-09 at 02:44.
    Jack Leuba
    Military/Government Product Liaison
    Knight's Armament Company
    jleuba@knightarmco.com

    Director of Training

    Jack@F2SConsulting.com
    F2SConsulting.com | FB@ Facebook.com/F2SConsultingLLC
    As accurate as needed, as fast as possible, as many times as it takes.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    72
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    I have used 3M velcro, not sure which one specifically, that worked pretty well. I agree about the bike tube, that works really well. The nice part is if you go to a bike shop and ask them for an old tube, ie one with a hole in it they will give it to you free. I found the size that works the best are from road bikes, real skinny tires. If you can find them they also make a heavy duty tube in those sizes that are thicker rubber.

    One trick I have used is to use hairspray, the cheaper the better it seems, aqua-net whatever you can find. Spray the VFG and pressure switch with a light coating, now you have to work fast before it dries so dont dick around. Also spray the inside of the tube you are going to put on. Pre-measure the length to save you some time and go ahead and practice using a dry run. Once everything is sprayed, the hairspray will act as a lube and it will slide right on. Once its where you want it you can let it dry or speed up the drying process by using an air compressor with a nozzle. Once the hairspray dries it "sets" and with be very solid not shifting or moving around. If you want to remove it cut it off and clean up the hairspray with some denatured alcohol.

    Once I get a camera again I will post some pics.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    4,302
    Feedback Score
    34 (100%)
    all the others mentioned and ZIPTIES.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia
    Posts
    2,561
    Feedback Score
    17 (100%)
    I suppose I should divulge more info:

    I'm using the tape switch on a SF M951, and I have a KAC VFG. A lot of the solutions proposed sound great.

    That being said, the problem I'm seeing is that it appears the ENTIRE area of the tape switch is a trigger on this thing. I don't see a way to secure the bottom of it, without constantly activating the light. There's not much room, and seemingly miniscule amounts of pressure set it off.

    I attempted to use epoxy on a tapeswitch for one of my IT M3X's, with messy and disastrous results. I suppose I could just get a TD VFG, but I'd like to work with what I've got.

    Am I missing something, or is there a way to secure the switch at the bottom, securely, but without activating the light itself?
    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Our president is a Tier 1 JOKE!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia
    Posts
    2,561
    Feedback Score
    17 (100%)
    Tomac's setup here is what I'm gunnin' for, but I don't believe I could pull it off without having the light in "constant on" mode, due to the sensitivity of the switch. Am I trippin? I just don't want to do something will end up not working. I've had almost as many home-brew modifications blow up in my face, as work properly.

    Last edited by Outlander Systems; 03-04-09 at 20:39.
    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Our president is a Tier 1 JOKE!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Peninsula, CA
    Posts
    406
    Feedback Score
    0
    zip ties and OD green duct tape

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    72
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    I ended up modifying one of my KAC VFGs. I have a crapload of them around so I figured what the heck. What I did is ground a "pocket" on once side so my pressure switch could lay flat so velcro or whatever would attach better being its a flat surface and not rounded. I got the idea from the Tango Down grips and wanted to save some cash. i am waiting to get a camera again, sold my photog gear to buy guns. Once I get a camera I will post some pics so you can see what worked for me. Being you pressure switch is activated everywhere try to tube trick I listed above. My pressure pads, surefire and pelican, are the same way, most if not all of the pad, especially towards the bottom when pressed will activate.
    Last edited by bluepythons; 03-09-09 at 16:43.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    72
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by TheLandlord View Post
    Tomac's setup here is what I'm gunnin' for, but I don't believe I could pull it off without having the light in "constant on" mode, due to the sensitivity of the switch. Am I trippin? I just don't want to do something will end up not working. I've had almost as many home-brew modifications blow up in my face, as work properly.

    The pic doesn't work for me.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia
    Posts
    2,561
    Feedback Score
    17 (100%)
    Peculiar Modification Indeed:

    Ladies and Gents, I have obtained success, via heat-shrink tubing from Home Depot. Once set, the light doesn't activate (I'm assuming because the pressure is evenly distributed, yet the tape switch is extremely secure. I was taking a gamble, and it worked.

    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Our president is a Tier 1 JOKE!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,045
    Feedback Score
    34 (100%)
    Zip ties (the really small size) and I've also had good luck with using the 3M double sided tape from automotive stores. Cut it down to fit under the pad and affix it straight to the face of the rail on the left side.

    I also use a Tango Down foregrip and I run two strips of electrical tape over the top 3/4 or so of the actual switch and just use the very bottom via my little finger. Prevents any white light AD's pretty well.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Washington
    Posts
    5
    Feedback Score
    0
    You can also use bicycle 1" inner tube. Works for me, and also helps make more grip.


    Here's a link of a pic from Fireteamleader.net:


    http://www.fireteamleader.net/tips/index.html
    Last edited by DCastro11B; 03-07-09 at 12:38.
    "War is a terrible trade. But when the cause is just, the smell of gunpowder is sweet."
    -Miles Standish (American Colonial)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •