Going to site my aimpoint in tomorow and pointers to help.

[ROADKING]

I am used to iron sites just not the red dot.

[Irish]

I am used to iron sites just not the red dot.

My apologies. If you'd like a very good visual on how to set it up you could buy the Magpul Dynamics DVDs, they do a very good job of illustrating how this is done. Good luck!

[rob_s]

When you're adjusting it, you're moving the dot to the hole, if that makes sense. shoot a group, I like to shoot at least 5 shots, then move the dot accordingly. So, if the center of your group of 5 (at 50 yards) is down 1" and to the left 2" from the center of the bullseye you need to move the dot 4 clicks left and 8 clicks down. A fullsize Aimpoint is 1/2 MOA adjustment, or 1/2" and 100 yards, and 1/4" at 50 yards.

[Molon]

I always set at 25 yards. BZO is the same at 25 or 50 up to 200 yards

Not really.

[ROADKING]

When you're adjusting it, you're moving the dot to the hole, if that makes sense. shoot a group, I like to shoot at least 5 shots, then move the dot accordingly. So, if the center of your group of 5 (at 50 yards) is down 1" and to the left 2" from the center of the bullseye you need to move the dot 4 clicks left and 8 clicks down. A fullsize Aimpoint is 1/2 MOA adjustment, or 1/2" and 100 yards, and 1/4" at 50 yards.

So your saying put the dot on center target, shoot, then move the dot to the hole i just shot ????

[DBR]

I sight in my Aimpoint first so the center of the group (3-5 shots) is where the dot is at 50yds. The indications on the Aimpoint tell you which way the adjustment will move the bullet strike. If the bullet hits left you want to adjust right. At 50yds each click is 1/4" of correction.

After I sight in the Aimpoint I then adjust the irons so I see the Aimpoint dot just on the top of the front post when I am looking through the irons normally with the small aperture.

I find it helps to use the lowest brightness setting that gives me a distinct dot. I consider the Aimpoint to be more precise than the irons so I want it to be the reference.

For most purposes a 50yd sight-in will let you hold dead on out to about 220yds.

If you have a way to hold the rifle securely you can fire one shot and after firing aim the dot again at the center of the target. Without moving the rifle then use the Aimpoint adjustments to move the dot to cover the shot. Shoot a group to verify and make final adjustment as necessary.

[lostwake]

Is that chart supposed to mean something to me? or are you just trying to say the military doesn't know how to sight in there rifle?

[Failure2Stop]

Do initial zero at 25, point of impact (POI) approx 1" below point of aim (POA).

To adjust your POI first remove the caps covering your elevation and deflection (windage) knobs. The knob on the top of the optic will be your elevation (up and down). The knob on the side will be your deflection (left and right). Generally the optic will be mounted so that the deflection adjustment is on the right side of the optic, as viewed when behind the the optic. Some prefer to roll the optic so that the deflection (formerly the elevation) is on the left side- this is why the knobs are labeled "UP-L" and "UP-R". Either way, of them should be exactly at the top. If the optic is canted it will make adjustments more difficult, and you will look dumb.

Anyway, find a suitable zeroing target and place it downrange- I like the shoot-n-see target with the dot in the middle- I am sure that there are better ones, but I don't do initial zero much and I find them satisfactory without getting wrapped around minutia. Adjust the dot intensity so that it is as low as possible while being able to clearly identify it on the target's center. Assume a stable position, either from a rest or supported prone are my preference.

Fire three well aimed shots. Don't take all day, but don't blast them off.

Here is where a spotting scope comes in handy. Look downrange and determine the amount of deviation from the center of your three-shot group to 1 inch below the center of your target (I mark this point with a marker for repatability of what I think 1 inch is). AFIAK, all Aimpoints are 1/2 MOA adjustments- meaning that each click of adjustment on the elevation or deflection will essentially move the strike of the round 1/2 inch at 100 yards (1/4 inch at 50 yards, and for the purpose of this part of the process, 1/8 inch at 25- that's 8 clicks per inch).

Once you have determined the amount of adjustment needed to within 1/2 inch or so, adjust the elevation and/or deflection the corresponding amount. You can use a flat-head screwdriver, dime, penny, or 5.56 rim to adjust the standard sized Aimpoints, or the caps of the T-1/H-1. If the shots are off to the left (you want them to be moved to the right) turn the deflection knob in the direction of the UP-R arrow (clockwise IIRC) the necessary number of clicks. If the shots are to the right, turn the knob the opposite direction of the UP-R arrow, moving the group the the left. The same concept applies to the elevation, and if you have the optic rolled.

Once you have made your initial adjustments, fire another group, and make adjustments if necessary. Don't dwell on the 25 yard zero, 3 groups is sufficient unless you made a serious error in adjustment. It doesn't need to be perfect because we will refine the zero at distance.

You now have some options depending on what kind of zero you want- 50, 100, 200, or 300.
I recommend a 50/200 or 100 for most users.
If you are going with a 50/200- once roughly zeroed at 25 (I use no more than 10 shots on initial zero), move back to 50. At 50 I use 5 shot groups for adjustment, 4 clicks per inch, establishing POA/POI.

A 50 yard zero will be pertty much on at 200 yards, but I further refine my zero at 200 with 10 shot groups. A zero is only good for the distance at which you actually put bullets through paper. Many people will extoll the 50 yard zero as being able to hit out to 225 yards but never shoot past 50 yards. While you mught be close to POA/POI at 200, there is no guarantee until you actually confirm with real bullets at actual distance.

Another useful zero is a 100 yard zero. Same procedure, just move the target back to 100- 2 clicks per inch of adjustment. If you are going to go with a 100 yard zero you will want to start out at about 1 1/2 inches low at 25.

My initial offset points (1 inch low at 25 for 50 yard zero, 1.5 inches low at 25 for 100) are very rough, but acceptable for use with a variety of optics, shooting different ammo, with different muzzle velocities, with varying height over bore. The precise numbers are available, but the differences are pretty minute and the method is readily doable without precision measuring instruments.

Hope that helps.

[Failure2Stop]

Is that chart supposed to mean something to me? or are you just trying to say the military doesn't know how to sight in there rifle?

The Army method is to use 6/3 + 2 for intial zero at 25 meters and then drop the drum back to 6/3 for BZO.
Even then it is only a method to expediently establish a rough zero.
There are much better ways to do it, and if you pay attention instead of insulting a guy that spends a great deal of time to bring you fact based information for free, you might get some good usable info.

[ROADKING]

Once everything is zeroed should the red dot sit on top of the front post???