Going to site my aimpoint in tomorow and pointers to help.

[Failure2Stop]

Once everything is zeroed should the red dot sit on top of the front post???

It generally will, if they are both zeroed to the same distance. In fact, if the irons are zeroed tyou can just move the dot to be bisected by the front sight post and crack on with actual distance zeroing instead of wasting time and ammo at 25.

[USMC03]

ROADKING,


I prefer a 50 yard / 200 meter (220 yard) zero.

The key to saving time and ammo is to start close, get a rough zero at close distance, and refine the zero at longer distances.


Trying to do the entire zeroing process at longer distance can be time consuming, be ammo intensive, and be agrivating.

Here is what *I* do.

Set up 2 targets at 25 yards. For iron sites, I like to use a target that has orange in it, I can see it better. For an Aimpoint I prefer a solid black circle as a target.

Zero both the iron sites and the Aimpoint. Dial in your windage, and when you move your elevation, you want your rounds to be striking approximately 1.5" below the point of aim at 25 yards.

This should take too much time.

After zeroing at 25 yards, move the targets back to 50 yards and make any adjustment that are needed.

By zeroing at 25 yards, and then moving targets back to 50 yards, I found this method to be much quicker and easier than trying to zero at 50 yards.

I use the small US Army M4 Battle Sight Targets at 25 yards, and then get larger targets for 50 yards. For my 50 yard targets I just take a 2 pieces of cardbaord and make 2 seperate targets for irons and Aimpoints. I find that putting too many targets on the same piece of cardboard to be distracting at 50 yards and longer ranges.

For iron sights, a piece of cardboard and put a 3" or 4" orange shooting sticker (purchaed from Wal-Mart in the sporting good section) in the middle of a section of card board for iron sites. I use a seperate piece of cardboard for my Aimpoint target and use black spray paint to paint a 2" - 3" circle in the middle of the card board to site in my Aimpoint.

If you want to confirm the zero at longer ranges......... take a larger target (I use an IPCS cardboard target with a large black circle) at 220 yards and shoot a couple 5 shot groups with both irons and the Aimpoint to confirm that your zero is good to go.


S/F,
Jeff

[ROADKING]

when i have the red dot on the rear flip up site is in the way of the red dot top post,

[lostwake]

All apologies. that chart was extremely useful. nuff said

[ROADKING]

it looks like the aimpoint needs to be sighted seperate from the irons because the dot in the aimpoint can be anywere in the scope to shoot as long as your on target you will hit it.

[jeffreywt]

when i have the red dot on the rear flip up site is in the way of the red dot top post,

So you're saying you mounted it upside down?

[ROADKING]

No i have a troy rear flip up sight. Should the rear sight be down when using the red dot.

[Hell_Bent]

No i have a troy rear flip up sight. Should the rear sight be down when using the red dot.

How do you have your Aimpoint mounted? What type of mount?

If you're using a low mount (such as is included with some Aimpoints) it's going to be too low to use in conjunction with iron sights. It will probably be too low to get a good cheekweld on an AR system. The pic below shows an ADM aimpoint mount with a Larue BUIS, the included "LOW" Aimpoint mount is on the rail in the middle where I just threw it on to show the difference in height. You can see that with the low mount, the BUIS will block the Aimpoint when the BUIS is raised. In addition, your field of view through the Aimpoint would be consumed by the front sight post.



If you're using a Larue or ADM mount (or mounts of similar heights) then your rear iron sight should not be blocking the dot, even when raised. When looking through your irons, you should see the dot resting on the tip of the front iron sight - or in close proximity. Mine have always rested right on top, but that doesn't allow for how you "see" the sight picture.

These are taken with a LaRue Rear BUIS - same height as a Troy BUIS when raised. This works exactly the same as on my carbines with a Troy. I added the dot with Photoshop as my cell camera didn't pick it up.



If you raise your cheek weld a slight bit, then you'll see the dot "floating" and the iron sights will be a non-issue in the lower part of your sight picture.




At the end of the day, you're overthinking it. Sight one of your systems in (dot or irons), then do the same for the other. See how they relate to one another ON YOUR SETUP. With all the variations in sights/mounts/etc, all the internet posting in the world isn't going to do you any good until you make some holes in paper.

[ROADKING]

I can see the red dot resting on top of the fron sight post with the big arpature, but when i flip to the small arpature the ring on the rear sight almost sits to low and hides the dot. I am using an arms low mount with the casv system wich raises the height.

[Hell_Bent]

I can see the red dot resting on top of the fron sight post with the big arpature, but when i flip to the small arpature the ring on the rear sight almost sits to low and hides the dot. I am using an arms low mount with the casv system wich raises the height.

Take it out and SHOOT it. Report back, we may all learn something...

I have ZERO time with the CASV system, so I can't comment on relative heights.

The Troy BUIS share the same plane (height) between apertures, so I'd have to guess that if you had perfect sight alignment with the large ap and could still see the dot, you should have the same picture with the small ap.

Again, there is no substitute for spent powder when it comes to minutiae such as this. At some point (usually about 20 minutes in to trying something), your brain goes "click" and things begin to make sense. The internet does not lend itself well to explaining abstracts.

Triggertime is the answer...