Dillon Progressive Reloading Question

[No Bananas]

I've always had a single stage, but I'm considering a Dillon Progressive for the .223.

How does the RL550B work with rifle cases (like the .223) that must be trimmed? The RL550B has only four stations. I guess one of them could be used for Dillon's Electric case trimmer. If not. how is the reloading process completed typically? Do you resize, pull the shell out, trim, and put back in the press?

*My understanding is that the resizing die will usually add a little length to the case, and therefore the cases shouldn't be trimmed until after they've been resized. Correct?

[Thomas M-4]

I am no expert just starting reloading my self but I see alot of guys mounting the dillon case trimmer on there single stage press.

[m4fun]

I use a 1050 for .223 reloading, but I use a 550 for decapping(station #1) and trimming/resizing with the Dillon trimmer(station #3)

If you are using the 550 exclusively(like a buddy of mine does) - he uses a second tool head for the priming, powder and bullet seating. You have to do your crimp primer pocket swagging between tool heads.

My complaint about the 550 is its lack of auto-indexing. extra step that too me reduces efficiency. I would have gone with a 650 if I didnt have the 550 and probably do more with it.

[markm]

If you care about making decent ammo at all, you don't load a case from decap all the way to finished round in one pass through the progressive.

You can do it this way, but it's really better to decap and resize the brass.... then start the progressive proces from there.

[Paulinski]

Hmmm - interesting points.

I bought a minty 650 with case feeder set up for .223 but converted it for my 9mm needs.

I have been using my old rock chucker for .223. I could get decent output (relatively speaking ) with the single stage but trimming slows me down considerably - especially since the damn winchester brass stretches like there is no tomorrow.

Good point about resizing first and prepping then going progressive.

[markm]

since the damn winchester brass stretches like there is no tomorrow.

No doubt. That's why I avoid it if possible.

Good point about resizing first and prepping then going progressive.

I go as far as priming my brass before it hits progressive mode. This way I can really kick out ammo and focus on the powder charge being right!

[KellyTTE]

I like Mark's method, as well as Sinister's (I'm sure he'll chime in) and I think its the way to go. De-cap and resize / trim all you brass in one pass, change your head out, clean the machine and then prime (separately if you like) and powder drop, seat and optional crimp. One of the big reasons that I decap as a separate process is because when you press the old primer out there's going to be a lot of debris left here and there. If you clean up the machine after all your decapping is done, you'll have fewer marred/dented primers and the machine (especially the priming system) will run so much smoother.

Mine is like this:

1st head:

Neck size & decap at station one. (Redding)
Small base resize at station two. (Redding)
Station three empty
Station four empty

Finish pass one on the brass, take it to the shop, trim to length with a possum hollow QwikCase Trimmer and toss it into the polisher.

2nd head:
Prime at station one (stock Dillon 550)
Powder dump at station two (stock Dillon 550, with retrograde dump)
Bullet seating at station three (stock Dillon seating die)
Station four empty

After listening to Sinister's advice, I no longer crimp my rounds. The Redding neck die provides adequate tension to hold the bullet and I've had no issues with loose bullets or bullet seating even in hard use.

Going to this two phase method has increased my production speed (fewer pauses due to contaminated equipment) and vastly improved the ammo quality (more time to inspect between phases, fewer 'things' happening progressively, etc).

[markm]

Kelly makes a good point on the filth of decapping. I've had great success using an old tooth brush to keep the machine free of debris.

It's indeed nicer to be producing your finished product on clean, de-lubed brass, and on a clean machine.

[HirosStorageUnit]

Well here is my set up on a Dillon XL 650:

Operation 1 Tool head
resize and deprime with a dillon die in station 1
I have the dillion trim set in station 4
then I tumble to get the brass shavings and gunk off plus if it has a crimp do it on the super swage.

Operation 2 Tool head

station 1 old RCBS size die adjusted to open the case mouth a touch and
make sure there is no tumbling media in the flash holes.
Then load normal on the rest of the tool head.

Works pretty good overall for me.

[SGT D USMC]

I have a dillon 650, and a super1050. With 223 I size and trim (1 step), on the 650 then with the 1050 I do the rest which includes swaging the primer pocket, one of the reasons I got a 1050. the 550 mades terffic ammo, however a 650 or 1050 with their case feeders allow you to not mind doing just one or two steps at once because they are so fast

I won't say that a progressive press is as accrute as a single stage, how ever I run a 69 grain seierra match kiing load through it that groups under 1/2 moa , if I don't use the powder measure on the machine. or don't size in the same run, The sizing operation will vary the powder charge if a case is not being charged (empty charging station for whatever reason) due to the vibration being twice or more for each drop instead of once. This is a very very small variation.

I have found Dillon to be excellent.