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Thread: Noveske Barrel Break-In (Stainless Steel)

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    Noveske Barrel Break-In (Stainless Steel)

    I was checking-out the Noveske Website and noticed a new document posted on the site regarding the Cleaning and Break-In of their stainless steel barreled firearms.


    BARREL BREAK-IN AND CLEANING TECHNIQUES

    Break-in

    It is necessary to clean your barrel well using proper cleaning equipment prior to use of the barrel. We have not found any benefits when using an
    extended break-in procedure.

    Cleaning Supplies & Techniques
    We like the Dewey coated rods, a good bore guide, copper/bronze brushes and cotton flannel patches, the appropriate size to keep that jag and rod
    in the middle of the bore. When cleaning, the brush or jag should only travel through the barrel from the breech to the muzzle, the same as the
    path of the bullet. Do not ever pull a brush or jag back through the crown of the barrel. You will need a good carbon solvent, like KG 1. Shooters
    Choice or CR-10 will chemically loosen the copper fouling, but KG 2 is found to remove the copper without the use of chemical solvents which
    may attack barrel steel. After cleaning with chemical solvents, neutralize the solvents with denatured alcohol or oil and patch dry. If using KG 2
    or any other micro abrasive product, use KG 3 solvent to flush out the bore, spraying from the breech with muzzle end down. Always finish with
    Tetra Gun Oil or KG 4. Never shoot a dry bore (chemically stripped) as this will greatly promote copper fouling. Clean
    the chamber with a cloth chamber mop, not a GI chamber brush.

    SPECIAL NOTE FOR POLYGONAL BARRELS:
    Polygonal barrels will be marked with the twist rate followed by a capital "P,” for example, 7P, 8P, and so on. Polygonal rifling does not have the
    steep sides to the lands as a standard barrel does, therefore the cleaning brush may not track with the twist of the rifling. Barrels marked 7PT will
    be easier to clean than 7P. 7PT Rifling is an improvement which aides in the brush tracking with the rifling. The cleaner must install the brush to
    the rod tightly; holding the rod between the fingers using both hands. Push the rod in while twisting it to the right, (clockwise). You will feel the
    rod twist. Be sure not to let the brush skip over the lands. Once you push the brush through, remove the brush from the cleaning rod. Pull the
    cleaning rod out of the barrel and repeat the process. Do not pull the brush back through the barrel.

    Do’s and Don'ts of Barrel Cleaning

    Do:
    Use a good coated rod
    Use a bore guide
    Clean from chamber end
    Use a phosphorous bronze bristle brush
    Follow recommended break-in procedures (listed above)

    Do Not:
    Do not pull the brush back through the crown
    Use a stainless bore brush
    Leave strong ammonia cleaning products in your bore for extended periods of time
    Shoot your barrel hot enough to brand cattle!
    In our experience, a loss of accuracy can be linked to a dirty or fouled barrel. Barrel life and accuracy is dependent on how the
    barrel is used. The barrel may be damaged (shortened barrel life and/or accuracy degradation) from excessive heat caused by a
    high rate of fire. We are not responsible for barrels damaged by operator abuse.


    Cleaning products can be purchased through these companies:
    KG Industries: KGcoatings.com, (800) 348-9558, Voice (715) 934-3566
    J. Dewey Manufacturing Co.: Deweyrods.com, Phone: (203)264-3064, Fax: (203)262-6907

    Please contact us if you have any questions regarding the break-in or cleaning of your new barrel.
    (541)479-6117
    www.noveskerifleworks.com

    http://www.noveskerifleworks.com/barrel_break-in.pdf

    This information may be useful to anyone who owns a Noveske stainless steel barrel.

    SkiDevil

  2. #2
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    Along time ago Gale McMillan said the same thing yet not many believed him.
    Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
    Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)

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    Quote Originally Posted by gotm4 View Post
    Along time ago Gale McMillan said the same thing yet not many believed him.
    Many still don't, otherwise I would not still get told how I should be breaking in my rifles by some shmuck at the range that thinks I care what he thinks
    "Intelligence is not the ability to regurgitate information. It is the ability to make sound decisions on a consistent basis "--me

    "Just remember, when you are talking to the average person, you are talking to a television set"--RDJB

    One Big Ass Mistake America

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    My favorite part of the Noveske break in doc is this

    "(Do Not) Shoot your barrel hot enough to brand cattle!"
    John Noveske Changed My Life.

    1.4.13

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    I got that as a letter with my Noveske barrel a year and a half ago. I took their advice and didn't break it in, and never will break in a barrel in the future.

  6. #6
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    i just got done posting "i dont even break in my stainless barrels" in another thread, and then saw this one.. weird.

    taking the time to break in a stainless barrel isn't going to hurt anything, but there's no conclusive evidence that there's enough difference to make any difference at all.

    i did, once, break in a stainless 16" Oly barrel, about 8 or 9 years ago.. ate up my whole damn day, and i never did ANYTHING even remotely close to precision shooting with that build. total waste of time and ammo.

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    A question for you guys with experience with stainless barrels. I have a Noveske VTAC carbine in stainless. I intend for this to be a do it all carbine. It will mostly get shot slow and for precision but on occasion get shot hot.
    I followed the recommended break in process. I used Butch’s Bore Shine and Tetra Copper Solvent while zeroing the optic and for the first strings etc. I never got any copper out, not once at the range.
    However I did get some evidence of copper when I let the Tetra Solvent sit for the recommended 30 minutes after a range session. I started to do this after each trip to the range and I continue to get copper out. I’ve shot fast doubles/quads etc as well, warming the barrel up but definitely not hot. I got plenty of copper out after that. Thus far I have about 300 rds through the rifle.
    How long can I expect the copper fouling to continue?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Low Drag View Post
    A question for you guys with experience with stainless barrels. I have a Noveske VTAC carbine in stainless. I intend for this to be a do it all carbine. It will mostly get shot slow and for precision but on occasion get shot hot.
    I followed the recommended break in process. I used Butch’s Bore Shine and Tetra Copper Solvent while zeroing the optic and for the first strings etc. I never got any copper out, not once at the range.
    However I did get some evidence of copper when I let the Tetra Solvent sit for the recommended 30 minutes after a range session. I started to do this after each trip to the range and I continue to get copper out. I’ve shot fast doubles/quads etc as well, warming the barrel up but definitely not hot. I got plenty of copper out after that. Thus far I have about 300 rds through the rifle.
    How long can I expect the copper fouling to continue?
    ===============================

    I don't think you ever stop copper fouling. Copper fouling is just a fact of life with a piece of copper going 2000 mph down your barrel. Now, you just need to determine at what round count does it start affecting accuracy.

    With 300 rounds the bore should be "deburred" (or whatever they call it) so just keep shooting until you see accuracy suffer. I'm at 400+ round without cleaning and haven't see accuracy degrade. I've got 2100 round through my CL barrel without cleaning and it is still shooting fine, but CL is a different animal.

    .
    Last edited by ucrt; 01-27-11 at 21:35. Reason: Clarity

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    Quote Originally Posted by Low Drag View Post
    A question for you guys with experience with stainless barrels. I have a Noveske VTAC carbine in stainless. I intend for this to be a do it all carbine. . .

    Thus far I have about 300 rds through the rifle.

    How long can I expect the copper fouling to continue?
    Hello Low Drag.

    I personally think that cleaning your barrel after every shooting session is not necessary. Especially with such a low round count.

    Besides, as you already pointed-out. You intend for this to be your "do it all carbine."

    If your barrel is the 16" Recon stainless, then that is the same barrel in my gun minus the VTAC. I have 2-3K through mine and have only cleaned it 3 times (barrel) and it is holding up just fine. As a matter of fact it shoots almost into the same hole at 50 yards with quality ammo like Hornandy TAP or Blackhills using a 4 MOA Aimpoint. Shoots almost the same dirty or clean. Pushing around 1K since it was last cleaned.

    Don't overstress about cleaning the barrel unless your concentration is upon precision shooting.

    This is only my experience. I currently have a 16" Stainless Recon and the 14.5" Afghan.

    SkiDevil

    P.S. Copper fouling will occur as long as you continue shooting the rifle.

    Mine:

  10. #10
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    I clean my stainless precision rifle every few hundred(200+/- rounds). I clean my carbine typically after every 500 rounds. My barrels havent been shot out yet... And I always pull the patch loop back through.

    Sounds like they are trying to push certain products... Although it does make sense, I just dont think it matters all that much.

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