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Thread: Noveske Barrel Break-In (Stainless Steel)

  1. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Low Drag View Post
    A question for you guys with experience with stainless barrels. I have a Noveske VTAC carbine in stainless. I intend for this to be a do it all carbine. It will mostly get shot slow and for precision but on occasion get shot hot.
    I followed the recommended break in process. I used Butch’s Bore Shine and Tetra Copper Solvent while zeroing the optic and for the first strings etc. I never got any copper out, not once at the range.
    However I did get some evidence of copper when I let the Tetra Solvent sit for the recommended 30 minutes after a range session. I started to do this after each trip to the range and I continue to get copper out. I’ve shot fast doubles/quads etc as well, warming the barrel up but definitely not hot. I got plenty of copper out after that. Thus far I have about 300 rds through the rifle.
    How long can I expect the copper fouling to continue?
    ===============================

    I don't think you ever stop copper fouling. Copper fouling is just a fact of life with a piece of copper going 2000 mph down your barrel. Now, you just need to determine at what round count does it start affecting accuracy.

    With 300 rounds the bore should be "deburred" (or whatever they call it) so just keep shooting until you see accuracy suffer. I'm at 400+ round without cleaning and haven't see accuracy degrade. I've got 2100 round through my CL barrel without cleaning and it is still shooting fine, but CL is a different animal.

    .
    Last edited by ucrt; 01-27-11 at 22:35. Reason: Clarity

  2. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Low Drag View Post
    A question for you guys with experience with stainless barrels. I have a Noveske VTAC carbine in stainless. I intend for this to be a do it all carbine. . .

    Thus far I have about 300 rds through the rifle.

    How long can I expect the copper fouling to continue?
    Hello Low Drag.

    I personally think that cleaning your barrel after every shooting session is not necessary. Especially with such a low round count.

    Besides, as you already pointed-out. You intend for this to be your "do it all carbine."

    If your barrel is the 16" Recon stainless, then that is the same barrel in my gun minus the VTAC. I have 2-3K through mine and have only cleaned it 3 times (barrel) and it is holding up just fine. As a matter of fact it shoots almost into the same hole at 50 yards with quality ammo like Hornandy TAP or Blackhills using a 4 MOA Aimpoint. Shoots almost the same dirty or clean. Pushing around 1K since it was last cleaned.

    Don't overstress about cleaning the barrel unless your concentration is upon precision shooting.

    This is only my experience. I currently have a 16" Stainless Recon and the 14.5" Afghan.

    SkiDevil

    P.S. Copper fouling will occur as long as you continue shooting the rifle.

    Mine:

  3. #10
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    I clean my stainless precision rifle every few hundred(200+/- rounds). I clean my carbine typically after every 500 rounds. My barrels havent been shot out yet... And I always pull the patch loop back through.

    Sounds like they are trying to push certain products... Although it does make sense, I just dont think it matters all that much.

  4. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robb Jensen View Post
    Along time ago Gale McMillan said the same thing yet not many believed him.
    Derek Martin also said in his book to just clean and shoot and not to fart around with the many complex break-in schemes.

  5. #12
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    I have also said the same thing about "break in" for many years. I have done rigid "break ins" and just shoot the damn thing. I have never been able to see a difference in results that I could quantify.

    But then again who am I?

  6. #13
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    FACT: Even the finest double-hand-lapped, stainless steel match-grade barrel is going to have tooling (reamer) marks, running perpendicular to the direction of bullet travel, remaining on the leade when it is new. These reamer marks are not unlike “the teeth on a very fine file.”

    The bore-scope view below shows these reamer marks on the leade of a new, unfired Krieger stainless steel match-grade barrel.







    The following pic shows the same barrel as above, after having a 20 round break-in procedure performed on it; there’s nary a reamer mark to be found on the leade.









    The next pic shows a bore-scope view of a stainless steel Noveske Afghan barrel (that did not have a break-in procedure performed on it) after firing 150 rounds. While not nearly as pronounced as before the first shot was fired, some of the reamer marks are still clearly evident on the leade after firing 150 rounds.





    ….
    Last edited by Molon; 01-29-11 at 21:20.
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  7. #14
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    I looked up Noveske's cleaning suggestions after build with his SPR barrel and went with the KG products. What the heck, I've used KG Gun Coat in the past and know it to be a good product.

    The KG2 bore polish is to keep the copper knocked back some while leaving some in the micro pores of the metal. There is absolutely no reason to do a chemical copper strip on a regular basis. (I've known for years of shooting C&Rs that a "little" copper in the barrel is a good thing and actually improves accuracy.)

    A few patches with the KG1 (carbon killer) followed by same with the KG2 (bore polish) followed by a flush with KG3 (solvent/degreaser), and oil. This is the fastest and most efficient cleaning method I've ever used. I generally don't even use a brush - if I do it's 2 - 4 one way passes only.

    I've always believed the first cleaning (before firing a round) should be a good one, however.
    Last edited by shootist~; 01-29-11 at 23:25.

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