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Thread: Duracoat University

  1. #11
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    I've been playing with Duracoat for a while now and found that surface prep is the most important step in the process. Duracoat loves to stick to parkerized and oxide finishes. I've been doing a light sanding with 600 grit sandpaper followed by a thorough wipe down with acetone or MEK. I use compressed air to completely dry the part. If you are refinishing a pre-painted, chromed or previously coated part I recommend media blasting rather than sanding to get a good surface to stick to. After the cleaning process it's important not to touch the part with your bare hands as this can transfer skin oils back onto the part. Unless you are using Durabake, Duracoat is air dry so no oven is required. I've had very good luck with Duracoat and Duraheat, both are air dry products. Have fun!!
    Marty
    "Indecision is the key to flexibility"

  2. #12
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    Thanks for the tips! So I am looking at doing my spikes stripped lower, my Vltor Receiver Extension, ASAP Plate, Castle nut and a BAD lever...

    Since these parts have a factory finish on them, do you suggest blasting them, or a light sand/scuff job on them would be okay?

    Thanks again
    Shane

  3. #13
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    You should be good to go with just a light sanding. Be sure to clean the parts off very well afterwards and use rubber gloves when handling the parts after cleaning them.
    "Indecision is the key to flexibility"

  4. #14
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    Will do, thanks again for your tips and suggestions! I have painted tons of parts before, just not gun parts. lol

  5. #15
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    They are basically the same except that the assembled gun parts end up as a much more satisfying product. Have fun with the coating!
    Marty
    "Indecision is the key to flexibility"

  6. #16
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    One last questions, would you wet sand the parts or do it dry? Thanks

  7. #17
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    I always dry sand followed by a thorough cleaning with acetone or MEK. No need for wet sanding. It just makes it harder to see what has already been sanded and also gets liquid into places that make it more difficult to dry the part.
    "Indecision is the key to flexibility"

  8. #18
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    Gotcha, I'm going to start sanding and preping my parts tonight. I have to get a few more parts before I acutally do the duracoating. Still need a BAD Lever, and the LPK so I can duracoat the saftey selector....

  9. #19
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    I'm not sure what color(s) you plan to use but you might consider leaving the selector switch, trigger, bolt release paddle, pins and BAD lever black. The contrast (at least on a tan upper and lower) looks really nice.
    "Indecision is the key to flexibility"

  10. #20
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    I have thought that as well, but was concderned it wouldn't look right. I might take your advise on that one.

    Would you duracoat the ASAP plate and castle nut though? I'm using Daniel Defense Flat Dark so it will contrast with all the Magpul FDE furniture i'm going to use....

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