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Thread: Duracoat University

  1. #21
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    That's a personal taste decision. I've done those particular parts both ways and liked them either way. I'll see if I can find some photos for you. PM me your email and I'll see what I can do so you'll have something to compare.
    Marty
    "Indecision is the key to flexibility"

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by lil'Zeus View Post
    I have thought that as well, but was concderned it wouldn't look right. I might take your advise on that one.

    Would you duracoat the ASAP plate and castle nut though? I'm using Daniel Defense Flat Dark so it will contrast with all the Magpul FDE furniture i'm going to use....
    I'm no expert, and I will say I haven't ever spoke here much, but I've done alot of complex camos and such with duracoat and an art background makes me aesthetically OCD. I usually don't have much to offer to the "tactical" conversations, but I might be able to join in here a little. I totally agree with "Marty" about the contrasting controls and pins. Some people tan everything, and in my very small opinion it is too much of a tan mass for me (hope I'm not offending anyone). My eyes like to see a black barrel sometimes (usually duraheat HK black) on a tan gun, black or dark pins, and I like the contrast of the castle nut and plate being black. Plus the ASAP has a degree of movement for operation and will wear the finish much faster. My opinion would be leave it black. I'm not a fan of painted buffer tubes either. Also, keep in mind that if you are trying to PERFECTLY match aftermarket parts colors, then I would order some Duracoat flattening agent or some matte clear. Most of their colors are too glossy for my personal taste. I did an SPR rifle and matched the upper and lower receiver to the DD FDE Lite rail with the Lauer color. I wasn't very happy with the match so I used some primary colors to "doctor" the tone and flattening agent until the sheen matched. This is probably a stupid practice to guys who paint for serious function and concealment, but it gives me something to do. Here is that rifle in some different configurations to get you excited for DD FDE. Again, just my thoughts.









    Last edited by chase102798; 03-27-11 at 20:39.

  3. #23
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    Thanks for sharing your rifle pics! I love the contrast in color. Enought to keep if FDE, but the variations of color in the accessories compared to the DD FDE looks good.

    I'm going to buy my upper complete from BCM so I was planning on leaving the upper receiver black....

    Looks sweet. Its darker than I thought, but that is sweet!

  4. #24
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    What made you decide for the DD FDE color? It is fairly dark. It is more of a greyish brown actually. Flat dirt earth would be a good description cause it blends with the soil here in PA. The DD rail has a coppery sheen to it from the anodizing, which looks nice up close. Are you using a DD FDE colored rail? Does the BCM upper have the flash hider pinned?

    I like the Trijicon FDE Duracoat color as a nice intermediate color between the Magpul FDE and the DD FDE.
    Last edited by chase102798; 03-27-11 at 21:25.

  5. #25
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    The BCM SBR upper I want has the 10" DD Lite rail in DD FDE. I figured this would be the best color to use on the lower due to that decision I have made on the upper. I like the fact that it is a bit darker than the Magpul FDE color.

    It looks similar to the Spikes Brown Recluse they built a while back. I'm diggin it. I think I may do the Duracoating tomorrow now since I'm off. I'll just leave the castle nut black and see how it looks.

    To keep the shine toned down, what mixture did you use on the hardner? I want a more flat color look....I don't need any extra glare!

  6. #26
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    I typically use a 12-1 ratio of colorant to hardner. You can go down to 10-1 for less shine. Less hardner provides a flatter finish. Don't go any less than 10-1 or you may compromise the durability.
    "Indecision is the key to flexibility"

  7. #27
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    Marty,
    Thanks on the advise! Is the 12:1 pretty glossy, or is is flat like I would prefer?

  8. #28
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    At 12-1 all of mine have turned out with the same texture as the rifle pictured above in FDE. You might want to experiment with the ratio in the event that this is still not flat enough for you. Just stay above 10-1 and you'll be fine. The texture flattens out a bit at full cure so don't let the initial shine at application bother you. Give the part 24 hours of cure time before changing your mixture to ensure that you are seeing the actual final texture.
    "Indecision is the key to flexibility"

  9. #29
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    Marty,
    As always, thanks a million with your help thus far in my project! I'll get some pics through the process to let you see how I'm doing on it all!

    Thanks
    shane

  10. #30
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    That would be great. Take your time and have fun with this!
    "Indecision is the key to flexibility"

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