Vehicle extrication out of your tool box

[MIKE G]

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[Iraq Ninja]

I think a crow bar may not be enough if you have to open a wrecked car as you describe, especially if someone is trapped inside.

If you have the space, why not go for a proper hooligan bar?

What about fire extinguishers? Not exactly a tool, but related.

[MIKE G]

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[Iraq Ninja]

Roger that!

When it comes to tools, I know very little about brands other than Craftsman. What are the "Colts" or "Noveskes" of hand tools?

[citizensoldier16]

What are the "Colts" or "Noveskes" of hand tools?

Snap-On tools are about the best hand tools out there. As for power, I'd say Dewalt. However, the price difference between Craftsman and Snap-On is significant; enough for me not to buy them. Considering Craftsman has a "no questions asked, period" lifetime warranty, I stick with them. The one time I've had Craftsman tools break I simply grabbed the pieces and went to Sears to see the manager. I informed him that part of the handle had broken off one of my adjustable wrenches, which had seen considerable use and was obviously scratched, dented, and had paint on it. The manager took a look at the wrench and promptly walked me over to the wrench isle and grabbed an identical one off the shelf and handed it to me, saying "there ya go!" and I walked out. No paperwork, no reciept of return, no nothing. I'll stick with my Craftsman tools.

[Chooie]

Snap-On tools are about the best hand tools out there. As for power, I'd say Dewalt. However, the price difference between Craftsman and Snap-On is significant; enough for me not to buy them. Considering Craftsman has a "no questions asked, period" lifetime warranty, I stick with them. The one time I've had Craftsman tools break I simply grabbed the pieces and went to Sears to see the manager. I informed him that part of the handle had broken off one of my adjustable wrenches, which had seen considerable use and was obviously scratched, dented, and had paint on it. The manager took a look at the wrench and promptly walked me over to the wrench isle and grabbed an identical one off the shelf and handed it to me, saying "there ya go!" and I walked out. No paperwork, no reciept of return, no nothing. I'll stick with my Craftsman tools.

I've had mixed experiences with Dewalt tools. I have some older drill/drivers that have lasted forever and only seen replacement brushes, where the brake and clutch still work beautifully - but I've also seen a $500 hammer drill fall apart after just a few weeks of light (for a hammer drill) use. Sometimes you just can't get away from the fact that all they are is a dressed up Black and Decker drill.

Given the choice, I'll probably stick to Makita or Milwaukee power tools.

[Thomas M-4]

Snap-On tools are about the best hand tools out there. As for power, I'd say Dewalt. However, the price difference between Craftsman and Snap-On is significant; enough for me not to buy them. Considering Craftsman has a "no questions asked, period" lifetime warranty, I stick with them.

Snap-on is at there best with specialty tools the rest is most defiantly over priced..
Craftsman has its good and bad did you know that most of the time when they replace a ratchet it is replaced with a rebuilt unit ? You can thank the new CEO for that. Most of my ratchets and hand tools are Husky. All of my torque wrenches are Craftsman [they just give you a new one when it breaks]. I have found that the husky premium ratchets have less yaw than the craftsman's and they still have a life time replacement.
Matco as good tool not quite as pricey as snap-on but close.
Mac tool's tools I like the best but they are to pricey for me.

[Thomas M-4]

I've had mixed experiences with Dewalt tools. I have some older drill/drivers that have lasted forever and only seen replacement brushes, where the brake and clutch still work beautifully - but I've also seen a $500 hammer drill fall apart after just a few weeks of light (for a hammer drill) use. Sometimes you just can't get away from the fact that all they are is a dressed up Black and Decker drill.

Given the choice, I'll probably stick to Makita or Milwaukee power tools.

Makita and Milwaukee are good and there battery life seems to be Superior to Dewalt but for me the dewalts are built to last longer and when they do break down there is a dewalt repair shop near by.

[Fireguy275]

Screwdrivers, wrenches, pliers and similar tools all will not have much value in vehicle extrication without the aid of hydraulics. Nothing wrong with having them, just don't get wrapped up in the little things.

If you break it down by tasks an equipment list might go like this. Electric or battery powered tools can give you more options (battery or corded recips, battery impact wrench, air tools, etc.)

Forcing open jammed doors: high lift jack, 2 racquet balls, nylon strap, reciprocating saw.
Clear out any remaining window glass in the window opening.
Unlock the door and try to manually open the door operating both the inner and outer latches at the same time.
Wedge the inner and outer door latches in the open position using the racqetballs (this is called the nader bypass and avoids you having to forcefully defeat the nader pin assembly).
Place the high lift upside down in the window opening and put a hitch around the jack and the nearest roof post with your strap to control the door when it pops.
Operate the jack until the compressed metal releases and the door pops open. Because you set-up the nader bypass, you save yourself a lot of work.
If you need more room, cut the door hyperextension strap located between the hinges with bolt cutters or your recip and fold the door forward towards the front bumper. You'll get almost as much room as total door removal.

Roof removal: recip saw, pry bar
Although a recip saw can get through most posts with relative quickness, if you do a complete roof removal you need bodies to support the roof as you cut posts to keep it from falling in on your patient.
An alternative is to trench cut the roof and this works for an upright or sideresting vehicle.
Break out the rear window (window punch) and make a cut parallel with the long access of the car about 6" inboard from the roof rail. This puts you inside and away from any roof mounted airbag systems.
Do this on each side of the car, peeling the roof forward towards the hood as you work.
The pry bar inserted under the roof of pushed forward supports the weight and helps you peel the roof like a sardine lid. stop when you get to the windshield.

Rear window spread: Highlift jack
A very easy technique that gives you amost as much room as roof removal.
Break out rear window, place high lift jack on top of speaker deck and spread roof upwards. Roof will move up and rear seat/speaker deck area will compress down.
Remove jack and recline patient seat for patient removal.

Steering column displacement: Highlift jack, length of chain rescue rated chain with grab hooks, pry bar or haligan
Punch a hole in windshield or cut out a section for chain to pass though.
Simple loop of chain around steering column, hooked to itself with grab hook, then run chain across hood and anchor to undercarriage or around axle.
Place highlift on firewall area, with lifting portion under chain.
Operate jack which lifts length of chain and raises steering column.

Be careful cutting windshields, avoid when possible. Cutting glass throws a fine powder in the air and you don't want that in your lungs. Have a dust mask in your kit at a minimum.

A minimal kit that can get a lot done: highlift jack, length of chain, haligan and flathead axe, bolt cutters (can cut steering wheel ring or door hyperextension straps), small bag with ResQme window punch, nylon hose strap, 2 racquetballs, saw blades if you have a battery powered recip, utility knife.

I'll dig though my laptop at home and see what photos I have to demonstrate some of these techniques.

[perna]

Well not trying to ruin the thread, but most times trying to extricate someone from a vehicle when you are not trained is a bad idea. The amount of air bags and crash protection devices in new vehicles can kill you or others if dealt with wrong.

Unless it is a severe emergency (like the car is on fire) extrication is better left to professionals. Providing first aid and fire control are the best things you can do. In a severe emergency the best thing to have would be a window punch/seat belt cutter.

Even if help is a long way off, it can still make things worse by extricating someone. Neck and back injuries can be made worse by moving someone, unpinching their legs and feet can cause them to bleed out, plus an improperly placed jack can kill or injure you and others.