Exhuming for examination:
So what did you get, and how did it work out?
Exhuming for examination:
So what did you get, and how did it work out?
Just to add some options--I have 3 HPV's at this point. A Bacchetta Giro, an old (circa 1995) Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo mountainbike that doesn't get ridden, and a Catrike Expedition.
The Giro is my road machine. The Catrike is the MUP/dog running/riding with kids machine.
Two broken Tigers, on fire in the night,
Flicker their souls to the wind...
-Roads to Moscow
Not Forgotten:
http://www.virtualwall.org/dk/KillenJD01a.htm
http://www.virtualwall.org/db/BoddenTR01a.htm
Long time mt biker here!
I have two older Gary Fishers and a dual suspension KHS.
Skip dual suspension...you won't need it, it is complicated and heavy and unless you spend huge bucks...it is not worth it.
I'd look hard at Trek and Cannondale's offerings. You need to spend at least 750-850 to get a decent bike...sorry. In that range, you get better components and better gearing and a bike that is not too heavy. You also get better brakes and that is crucial.
Research the suspension forks and get a bike that has a decent fork. A good fork and good disc brakes can make up for other components where some makers cut corners.
Don't start with SPD pedals. Start with toe clips then move to clipless. You WILL end up going clipless if you ride for any length of time. I prefer Shimano SPDs.
Good luck and welcome to the addiction! LOL
-brickboy240
........
Last edited by Don Robison; 04-21-14 at 15:18. Reason: realized someone opened an old thread
Well when you realize the additional wattage you can transfer to the crankset from being able to pedal in every direction, instead of just down, you'll never go back.
You definitely need to get used to it, but you definitely do. Using the appropriate cleat/pedal style for your application is important- if you're pedaling for 50-75 miles on backroads and highways, you want something different than if you're darting around in a city.
it makes a very large difference for a unfit person to use clipless pedals, yes the learning curve sucks dead goats but if you start on a lawn to learn your unclipping it makes a major difference . I learned with look pedals back in the 90's when the adjustability was shit. don't loosen the pedal to it's lightest or you will pull out of the pedal, leave it on a middle of the road setting, and don't waste your money on anything but shimano. look at the DEORE level stuff they do have a clipless with built in platform that really does work for sneakers. ALSO AS IMPORTANT is the shoes even casual cycling shoes are much stiffer than sneakers which aids in power transfer.
2012 National Zumba Endurance Champion
الدهون القاع الفتيات لك جعل العالم هزاز جولة الذهاب
Shimano spd's are ok if you hate your knee joints, imho. My personal pref is for speedplay frogs, though I am using a pair of egg beater candy pedals on the catrike, so DH and I won't have to keep swapping pedals when we change riders.
On the catrike, clipless pedals are considered essential life support gear. No joke. Without them you are at an extremely high risk of shattering your leg by running it over with the frame cruciform.
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
Two broken Tigers, on fire in the night,
Flicker their souls to the wind...
-Roads to Moscow
Not Forgotten:
http://www.virtualwall.org/dk/KillenJD01a.htm
http://www.virtualwall.org/db/BoddenTR01a.htm
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