Official NFA Picture Thread

[Voodoo_Man]

[Gunfixr]

Here's an AOW I built for a customer a few years back. He basically wanted a Super Shorty, but didn't want to pay Serbu's prices, and had a Mossberg 500 Cruiser already to start with.
It's basically the same but for a couple differences. We have regular who owns a Serbu I could compare it to. The primary differences are the folding grip is flared at the bottom, and the follower is modified so it will run the Aguila minishells.

[Gunfixr]

Here is an SBS I built for a customer. It's a Rem 870 Wingmaster, shortened to about 12.5" (he wanted it flush with the mag cap), the barrel is threaded for remchokes. The stock is shortened, the follower slotted to clear the short stroke jam that the older guns could suffer from, and the whole gun is refinished in Norrells Moly Resin.

[Gunfixr]

Here is a suppressor I built, entirely of Titanium. It is 1 5/8"OD and 9" long, and weighs 19oz. I wanted a multical suppressor that would go on a 9mm as well as a .308 running full power loads. While it was said on another forum it would suck on either the rifle or pistol, in actuality, it doesn't. On a 9mm SBR with about a 6" barrel, it is quieter than an AAC Phantom on a P226, shooting the same ammunition. On an AR with a 16" midlength barrel, it's about equal to a Tactical Innovations Tac 16 with same ammo. And on a Savage 110 with a 20" barrel, it was barely louder than an HVT QD on a Rem 700 with the same, but different ammo.
This was witness comparison, as we are a small shop, and don't have a db meter. And while not all of these may be top of the line factory suppressors, they are all hearing safe. So, for a one off unit, spanning quite a range, it's not bad. I probably wouldn't run it on a full auto, but I don't have any.
Primary attachment fits the 9mm SBR, a B&T TP9. An adapter was made to fit the AR Vortex flash hider, QD.
The white delrin rod in the pics is used to push out the baffles for cleaning, if needed. It is a user servicable unit. A wrench was made to tighten/loosen the muzzle cap.

[PGT]

Wow....that's awesome. I need one for my B&T and have been lax in wanting to spend $1200 for a proper B&T can. Is that an F1 build or do you sell them? I've been toying with some F1 can builds but w/o welding skills, it seems a long shot.

[PGT]

range time earlier this week.....I was having some issues making my PDW work....MVB stock w/ a PWS piston upper and custom buffer from HeavyBuffers.com. I brought the wife's 11.5" BCM build and swapped uppers/lowers and ran the PWS w/ a traditional recoil system and the MVB on a the mil-spec BCM BCG. No issues....basically narrowed the issue down to the custom buffer.



old coworker and friend of mine, happy to burn my ammo testing

[Gunfixr]

It's not an f1 build, as I am the gunsmith at an 07/sot, I did it on the license and f4'ed it to me.
I have an f1 22 suppressor, I was going to put pics up on, when I took them. It's also all Titanium.
We could sell them, I am a one man operation, making one offs, with no cnc equipment. I've had a lot of price requests. I was going to look into farming out the baffles and such, make the quicker pieces myself, but my father's cancer took a turn, and most of this year, and some of last I've been busy with that. Now, I execute his estate, still only have so much time.
It is threaded together, so it can be an f1 build. Tube is sized, then caps and baffles are the work. It is a simple, old school design.
You can't put too small of an area in front of the muzzle of these things, as they are locked breech, and use muzzle pressure to push the barrel back to unlock it. Too tight of an area, and it runs the gun way too hard, makes it unreliable.
Also, I cut the three lug off the muzzle, and made a threaded collar, so the suppressor can thread on. This turned out to be more of a problem than thought, but was committed by then.
If I were to sell them, it should be with a three lug rear cap. If have to sub that out. I know how to make it, just don't have the equipment.
I made a muzzle piece for my 308 that takes this directly. It just stays mounted. It's a tensioning piece, like gem tech makes for their suppressors.

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[PGT]

got it. Any trick to direct mounting the front grip? I've still got to reassemble mine after cerakoting the frame and that looks very close to the original design vs. using the rail we get here stateside.

[Gunfixr]

I am stateside, the pictured gun was imported by dsa.
It also had the rail, but it's held on by two screws.
I removed the rail, acquired a Magpul moe vfg, and went to modding.
It is held on by two screws, so it won't rotate. One goes into the rail mounting hole next to the bottom of the breech locking block bracket, it's the metal piece you can see on the bottom with the serial number in it. The other hole is drilled into that metal block, and tapped. You need to be careful about where you come through, or preferably not. The main, centered bolt is through the center of the vfg and into that hole. The second on into the polymer frame is the anti rotation one.
The serial number is also engraved into the side of that block, and can be see when the upper is removed, so number obliteration is not an issue.
I picked that grip for two reasons. One, it was short and doesn't go past the magwell/grip, and two, it was the best to make for the original smg look.
Not to mention, the angle feels better than straight.

I can take some pics if needed.

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[Gunfixr]

The suppressor was made much heavier than needed for 9mm, because it also has to work on a 308.
The tube is just purchased, and cut to length square and internally threaded on both ends. A smaller tube was purchased, and had to have the od skimmed to fit in the larger tube, and was cut square for spacers. Solid stock was used to make the end caps and baffles.
Since its not going on any full autos, a spring loaded ball was set into the rear, and acts as a detent to prevent rotation. It works fine, it's just lots of heavy fire, which I won't be doing, could cook the small spring.
The early models of this gun had the muzzle threaded, and then later they went to a three lug end. I just have a simple mill and lathe, so cutting a three lug adapter would be rather difficult.
Since no welding is involved, it can be f1, but requires machining skills. It could be welded of steel, but would be heavier. Welding together a suppressor is involved, if you want everything to line up.
Hopefully soon, I will be making a welded steel dedicated 5.56 suppressor.

I warn you though, that's at least $250 worth of titanium.

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