flash hider on ban barrel

[Seth Harness]

I have recently turned off the nonfunctional, pressed on flash hider off of my old rra barrel, you know the one that you can see the barrel thru the bird cage. i want to cut the barrel under length to accomidate 161/2" after fixed flash is on , turn it down to thread dem. turn threads and install my medieval m/brake. ok, can do, no problem. how about fixing the new one. drill and pin? mar the threads so it cant turn? i even thought about drilling a hole in the m/brake (threads), threading it on and tac welding it.

[AMMOTECH]

Is this a project that you want to complete yourself?
If your up to letting someone else do it then check out Kurts:
http://www.kurtskustomfirearms.citym...page/29585.htm

[Seth Harness]

yeah i wanted to do it myself. its an extra barrel just laying around and i like to tinker. just lookin for feed back. thanx for the link, that kortex is killer!

[AR15barrels]

Here's how I do it...



ETA: Vortexes and Troys are HARD so plan on a carbide drill bit...
I use a 1/8" diameter dowel pin that's 3/16" long.
Drill down 0.235" from when your drill bit first touches the surface of the 22mm diameter muzzle device.

[Seth Harness]

Thanks alot man, I appreciate the reply. Ive been waiting a while.
I wanted to see if the idea was even practical.

Will cutting an 1 1/2" off the end of the barrel affect accuracy? The reason I ask is, the barrel tappers the closer it gets to the muzzle currect?

[Seth Harness]

I cut the barrel down and drilled out the threads on the flash hider, threaded them both with 9/16 18 NF. (In the lathe)
I wasnt about to pay $50 for the tap and die set and its never coming off anyway, so what the hell.
I also cut off the FS and ground it down. Now its ready for my new 10" rail from troy ind. when ever I order it.
I lightend up the barrel on the lathe also. It helped quite a bit. I would love to post the pics I have of the work, but Im the guy who cant get the "add picture" or the "add link" icons to work. So screw that idea.

Back to the flash hider. How do I protect the rest of the barrel and stuff while I tack weld both sides of the roll pin I installed ????

My welder wont leave that nice of a ball of weld, when Im done it'll be spatterred all over the place. Help me, Im almost done.

PS. Everything I do is on a budget, so any ideas on a paint that sorta matches parkerizing or zinc phosphate ?? whatever its called.

[ISAIAH53]

Brownell's Alumahyde II comes in Parkerizing Gray or Dark Parkerizing - but I haven't use either of those two colors yet, so I can't speak to how well they might match anything. $10 per spray can, or $20 per spray can of baking lacquer.

[Linea_de_Fuego]

When one replaces a flash hider how do you keep from marring the barrel?

Is there a torque rate for attaching the new one?

My barrel is a 16 inch so the bird cage is not pinned.

[Seth Harness]

When one replaces a flash hider how do you keep from marring the barrel?

Is there a torque rate for attaching the new one?

My barrel is a 16 inch so the bird cage is not pinned.

Flash hiders use a crush washer that allow you to turn the muzzle device to position and still stay tight, its kind of like a lock washer. The muzzle device will become progressively tighter very quickly, but keep working it clockwise and counter clockwise a little at a time and youll get it to position. As you work it, the washer will "crush"... Make sense?

[Linea_de_Fuego]

As you work it, the washer will "crush"... Make sense?

I do understand that portion, but do not know how to secure a grip on the barrel without marring it. Do you just hold the barrel assembly by the handguard?