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Thread: Crimson Trace and J frames

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  1. #1
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    Crimson Trace and J frames

    I have a set of LG405s on a current production S&W 642 no lock. Excellent product, makes a huge difference for me when shooting it. But, I have an issue with them I'd like advice on.

    The master on/off switch on the bottom of the grip would turn off under recoil every once in awhile. I assumed it was due to a combination of lightweight revolver and heavy recoil because I could rub my finger across the switch and it would never catch it, so it must have been due to recoil. It bugged me but not real bad. I decided to contact CT anyway about replacing them. They were more than accomodating and after receiving my old set they sent me a new set.

    Finally got to the range twice in the last week. This set is worse than the last set. Today on one cylinder alone it shut off twice in 5 rounds. It happens with both loads I shoot, Winchester 130gr. FMJ and Speer Gold Dot 135gr.+P.

    I guess I'll contact them again to get another replacement set. But while I'm waiting for an outcome I was wondering if this happens with anyone else on here? If so, is there a solution besides trying different sets till you get a "good" one or is there something I can wedge in the recess to prevent the switch from moving?

    I don't want to give up on them thats for sure. And I've tried the 105s, don't like them. The activation switch is more recessed in the grip than with the 405s and its harder for my middle finger to make contact with my grip. I end up with a flickering laser.

    Any help would be appreciated.
    "When you go home, Tell them of us and say, For your tomorrow, We gave our today."

  2. #2
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    While I like the Lasergrips, we've seen a lot of problems with ones on 1911's and Glocks. However, the J-frame CT's have been trouble free for the most part. Do your grips turn off when shooting with both hands or one hand? If both hands, try shooting a bunch of rounds one handed and see if the problem persists. FWIW, 90% or our J-frame BUG training is done with one hand--often the weak side hand.

  3. #3
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    I got a set of the 105s in for T&E
    they have been 100% perfect
    I specifically requested the 105s because I wanted the smallest ones they had and no switch.

    I was at the range the first time I used them shooting 135+p gold dots and 158g +p Federal lead hollowpoints and was flat out amazed at how well they work.
    The guy next to me was shocked to see little groups shot fast out a Jframe


    Do you think it's a switch issue or an activation issue?
    Charles Coker

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    Dealer - Armasight and Steiner Optics
    Affiliated with Trijicon, Wilson Combat and Crux Suppressors

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccoker View Post
    I got a set of the 105s in for T&E
    they have been 100% perfect
    I specifically requested the 105s because I wanted the smallest ones they had and no switch.

    I was at the range the first time I used them shooting 135+p gold dots and 158g +p Federal lead hollowpoints and was flat out amazed at how well they work.
    The guy next to me was shocked to see little groups shot fast out a Jframe


    Do you think it's a switch issue or an activation issue?
    Switch issue. The main on/off button. When I'm dryfiring it there is no issue. Its only with live fire. It'll be fine, then...nothing. Turn the revolver over and the switch will be all the way off or half way off. Either way, dead, no laser.

    This is what led me to try the 105s but I had the issue I mentioned in my first post.

    Doc,

    I mostly shoot 2 handed, some one handed. The problem creeps up no matter which way I shoot.
    "When you go home, Tell them of us and say, For your tomorrow, We gave our today."

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by cathellsk View Post
    Switch issue. The main on/off button. When I'm dryfiring it there is no issue. Its only with live fire. It'll be fine, then...nothing. Turn the revolver over and the switch will be all the way off or half way off. Either way, dead, no laser.

    This is what led me to try the 105s but I had the issue I mentioned in my first post.

    Doc,

    I mostly shoot 2 handed, some one handed. The problem creeps up no matter which way I shoot.
    sorry, I should have read your post better
    anyway to hardwire bypass the switch?
    Charles Coker

    Disclosure statement:
    Pro Staff - Silencer Shop
    Dealer - Armasight and Steiner Optics
    Affiliated with Trijicon, Wilson Combat and Crux Suppressors

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccoker View Post
    sorry, I should have read your post better
    anyway to hardwire bypass the switch?
    Not sure, may be easier to somehow "jam" it in the on position. I'm not familiar with the inner workings of them nor to I really want to modify them. I'm wondering if I put something small enough, that will stay in place yet be easily removed if need be, in the bottom of the grip by the switch to keep it from moving.
    "When you go home, Tell them of us and say, For your tomorrow, We gave our today."

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocGKR View Post
    While I like the Lasergrips, we've seen a lot of problems with ones on 1911's and Glocks. However, the J-frame CT's have been trouble free for the most part. Do your grips turn off when shooting with both hands or one hand? If both hands, try shooting a bunch of rounds one handed and see if the problem persists. FWIW, 90% or our J-frame BUG training is done with one hand--often the weak side hand.
    Cathellsk, my apologies for veering the thread off course with this question to Doc but here goes:

    Doc, what problems are Lasergrips exhibiting on 1911s? I tried the search function, but got nothing indicating Lasergrip issues on 1911s.

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