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Thread: Looking for an inexpensive alternative to the Surefire E1B

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    The other problem I'm finding is that many of these lights appear designed to appeal to the light-nerds, not actual users. I do not need SOS, strobe, 756 different lighting levels, two types of controls, a twisting head, programming that requires the assistance of NASA, and enough lumens to melt paint.

    Other than the clip and price, I am beginning to appreciate the simplicity of the Surefire. I'd like the switch to operate a little differently (light pressure, light light; high pressure, bright light) but Christ some of these other models are confusing as all get-out with the programming, 5 different settings, etc. I feel like if I tap out "shave and a haircut" on the button they'll start projecting Loony Tunes Cartoons on the wall with Bugs & the whole cast!
    I agree completely. I actually got rid of a few flashlights because I found they had too many options on them, 90% of which I never used. I like simple hi/lo switching, or at most three levels of output. Beyond that most of these features are superfluous to me.

    Derek
    An evil soul wields an evil sword.

  2. #22
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    I was looking at the options presented too, and ready to actually buy something. The Quarks had/have my interest.

    Can someone confirm that I can just have it always come on at "High Output" when I push the button? That's all I want. No strobe or anything else. 100% of the time I want it to come on with one push to full output, is that possible without having an Electrical Engineering degree and a slide rule?

    Thanks.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIVAN View Post
    without having an Electrical Engineering degree and a slide rule?
    I prefer the abacus.

    I do believe that what you are asking is possible on the Quark, but I'm not certain it's that way on all models, or if it applies to the AA version too (the one I'm most interested in because we have AA batteries coming out our ears at home).

    I still think the best solution for a pocket light is to have a two-stage switch that you press lightly for the low intensity and press hard for the high intensity. When the chips are down you're going to be gripping the shit out of the thing, and bright is what you're going to get whether you want it or not, but I don't need 200+ lumens to pick up the dog shit at 22:00 in the rain.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    ...but I don't need 200+ lumens to pick up the dog shit at 22:00 in the rain.
    I bought those Icon Rogues for that, but you have to press it once to see what your output is, then press again if you want to change. It will just flip-flop back each time it's pressed. I bought both the single AA and the double AA versions to test out. For "non-tactical" stuff, I use them.

    Problem I see with a pressure switch in sub-$100 light is that it will go TU at a bad time, leaving you with no option but full-on or 1/10th-on, which would be a really m'fer.

  5. #25
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    I carry the NiteCore Extreme R2. Works quite well, easy to use, adjustable beam, and I've used it as a hammer and to chip ice. The link I posted is a good deal from a retired LEO in PA's company. I have no financial interest in the company but am just passing on a good deal (it's on sale).

  6. #26
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    The E1B is 5 lumens and 80 lumens. I don't need much more than 100 lumens truthfully and would rather have the runtime.

    Quark specs:
    Moonlight: 0.2 lumens for 15 days, (1ma)
    Low: 4 OTF lumens for 2.5 days (10ma)
    Medium: 22 OTF lumens for 13 hours (50ma)
    High: 85 OTF lumens for 2.7 hours (250ma)
    Max: 206 OTF lumens for 0.8 hours (700ma)
    If I could get a two-position switch, and I don't really care which comes on first, that does low and high only on the Quark, without turning the head, I'd be happier than hell.

  7. #27
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    It does say that this one has the following controls:

    You can also cycle through the Quark's other modes just as easily. Lightly depress the button momentarily (you don't need to 'click' it off) and the output will switch to the next mode. The mode sequence is determined by whether the bezel is tightened or loosened:

    Loosened Bezel: Moonlight -> Low -> Medium -> High -> SOS -> Beacon

    Tightened Bezel: Max -> Strobe
    I might could live with the loosened bezel operation, I think, for my purposes, but I'd sure like to take moonlight, medium SOS, and beacon out of that loop.

  8. #28
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    they use orings for water proofing so the bezel will resist turning if your worried about it.


    use this as a reference when looking for lights.

    i can personally recommend the quarks and the jet beams as those are my favorites.

    http://flashlightreviews.com/

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Littlelebowski View Post
    I carry the NiteCore Extreme R2. Works quite well, easy to use, adjustable beam, and I've used it as a hammer and to chip ice. The link I posted is a good deal from a retired LEO in PA's company. I have no financial interest in the company but am just passing on a good deal (it's on sale).
    Third vote here for a Nitecore Extreme. Solid build, size, simplicity, performance, and price. Nuff said.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sluggo View Post
    Third vote here for a Nitecore Extreme. Solid build, size, simplicity, performance, and price. Nuff said.
    Anybody got links to any reviews, or preferably videos not in German, of it? Are the head and tail reversible so the clip goes the right way?
    Last edited by rob_s; 03-16-10 at 14:43.

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