This guy works the 6 …
This guy works the 6 …
Last edited by PrivateCitizen; 06-24-10 at 20:26.
I'm willing to forego supported shooting, even the aggressive grip to a certain extent. In looking at the front sight it appears as though it may get in the way of a 2 or 10 mount right up front. I'm gonna check those pics and see how close the 2:00 mount is to the front sight. Also gonna look at a different SF that uses the newer switch with the on/off button and momentary switch... looks a bit better built than just a simple tape switch.
Maybe some pics of the LWRC A2 with some mounts are around.
Thanks.
Here is one of my 10:30 mounts.
You don't have to give up anything.
It's starting to seem that you just want a 6:00 mount despite all the advantages with putting the light almost anywhere else.
I use a 6 o'clock position. It keeps the gun narrow and is completely ambidextrous (only 6 and 12 o'clock are truly ambidextrous). This setup works better for me than anything else I have tried.
How do you place your support side hand to use that light mount?
A 1030 or 230 is also completely ambi. You just have to reach over the top of the gun. And with the correct support side grip, you can build the light around your grip so it takes very little to work the light.
PJ
I have my current light set up very very close to F2S.
I did not see it mentioned, but another problem with the 6 o'clock mount, is the potential problems with shadows that the light produces on the target.
Below are some pictures of my current light set up and how I use it left/right handed.
Normal supprt side grip
Now with light manipulation
Support side Light manipulation
PJ
I place my support hand toward the front of the handgard and simply slide it forward into the sling swivel to activate the light. It is very fast and easy. (See this video.)
The problem with a 10:30 or 2:30 is that you have one technique for shooting strong hand and another technique for shooting off hand. A light at 6 o'clock provides symmetry both in setup and technique.
There is no noticeable shadow with my setup unless you are shining it on a wall within 5 feet.
My thumb has to move a total of about an inch to activate the light from both left and right handed.
How far forward do you have to slide your hand? It seems you either have to slide your hand forward, or keep it really close to the sling swivel and risk white light AD.
Also you are having to move your entire support side grip to manipulate the light. I move a thumb.
As for casting shadows, I personally would not want to be limited even if the distance is only 5 feet or so. No one ever has to identify things that close to them anyways......
Also as previously stated the 6 oclock mount really puts the light out there for alot of un-needed abuse, screws with using barricades as support, limits the positions the light can be used in, and in some cases increases your profile and makes you a bigger target.
PJ
F2S whose mount is that.. Im running mine at 9 but would like to try 10:30
My issue at this point is that ive got a Surefire scout light and i dont think anyone makes a mount for it...
I can always buy a new light.. any reason for a new light right
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