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Thread: Hoppes #9 or M-Pro 7

  1. #1
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    Hoppes #9 or M-Pro 7

    I have noticed that several people are using the new M-Pro 7 from Hoppes so I bought some and used it instead of my regular Hoppe's #9. Overall, cleaning took a lot less time but the patchs werent really as dirty so how much better it cleaned im unsure of. Anyway for sake of a long story and what not. Who perfers and believes the M-Pro 7 is a more powerful cleaner than the original Hoppes #9. I found a good deal on a 32oz bottle of M-Pro7 so I am asking before I invest in a bunch of the stuff.

  2. #2
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    I love mpro7...buy away.

  3. #3
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    I'm very happy with M-Pro 7. It cleans well and I love the fact that it is non-toxic which means I can clean my gun anywhere regardless of ventilation. To answer your question, I'm no chemist, but I do "believe" that M-Pro 7 is as powerful a cleaner that I need for my purposes. I have friends who mess with the Hoppes and it's a major mess in comparison!

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    If MPro came in the same little goofy looking brown bottle that #9 does, I wonder how many people would buy it? I suspect some people are lured in by the cool looking bottles and displays you see set up. Never tried it yet.

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    I've been using Gunzilla. About two years ago a gunsmith/armorer recomended it to me during an armory school, and I was sold on it. I used to use CLP because that's what we had been using. I was given some MPro samples about a year ago and it worked alright, but I'm still stuck on Gunzilla. The Gunzilla is kinda pricey, but it works.

    http://www.gunzilla.us/

  6. #6
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    Mp7 rocks!
    Personal security provided by: Sig Sauer, S&W, Ruger, and Daniel Defense

  7. #7
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    MPro-7 is an old formula (100 years?) that has been adapted to cleaning guns. Originally, it was developed for removing carbon deposits from metal, primarily dried india ink from pen nibs. It works very well for removing carbon from gun barrels, and any other fouling a water-based detergent cleaner can be expected to remove. I think it works better than Hoppes No.9 for this, and because it is non-toxic, I use it.

    Sadly, MPro-7 doesn't efficiently remove/dissolve copper fouling, so occasionally a stronger chemical is helpful. Sweets 7.62, or Montana X-treme, or Barnes, or Hoppes Benchrest are some popular products everyone knows. Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner (Brownells) is a good non-toxic alternative to the ammonia-based cleaners that I have been using lately with good results. An abrasive bore cleaner like Remclean is also useful sometimes, so I always have three cleaning products in small bottles in my range box.

    But I still love the smell of Hoppes No.9, and hope someone will put out a men's cologne.

  8. #8
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    I use Mpro-7 almost exclusively and to remove copper I use Barrett's copper gel. It is probably the best copper remover I have tried.





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  9. #9
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    Another vote for the M-Pro 7

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pal View Post
    If MPro came in the same little goofy looking brown bottle that #9 does, I wonder how many people would buy it? I suspect some people are lured in by the cool looking bottles and displays you see set up. Never tried it yet.

    I buy Hoppe's No.9 by the quart,so I get goofy looking big bottles.

    Seriously though,Ive been using Hoppe's No.9 for 30+ years and have no complaints other than I think it worked better when it contained nitrobenzene....but hey gota "go green" in some way I guess.
    Ive tried the newer "green cleaners"(Mpro7 and MC25) and to me they are more of,well a cleaner than an actual bore solvent.Great for surface prep/degreaser though.
    IMHO a bore solvent should be able to somewhat to tackle the types of fouling remaining in the bore from the combustion of powders and metal fouling.Granted Hoppe's No.9 is slow working as a copper solvent,but it will get the job done if allowed to soak overnight.Works decent as a short term protectant and a dunkit solution too.
    That said I shoot everything from flintlocks to AR's,with a strong passion for WWII era weapons,particularly the Kar.98K,so for me a solvent has to be able to actually work as a bore solvent.
    I also use the USGI RBC at times.
    Guess Im just old fashioned and set in my ways..
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