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Thread: Need Bow Critique

  1. #1
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    Need Bow Critique

    Okay fellas!!! I need some advice from you guys with more experience.

    I acquired a new to me 2008 Diamond "The Rock" and got a few hrs of practice in.



    Seems like I spent the majority of today adjusting the sights to no avail. I think I am trying to hard. SO

    I said screw it and got the sight where I thought was good enough at 15 yards considering every movement and shot has a different point of impact as its not a friggin GUN and my body isnt used to this!!!

    So........

    This is where I stopped for today, This is at 20 yards and a small game of "Ring around the posies" and hit the bee in the top left.

    I started looking past the sight and more at the target and not trying so hard.






    Well, How am I doing? Good enough to stop worrying with the sight for a while and simply shoot?
    Brian Goode
    NC Knifemaker
    http://www.bgoodeknives.com

  2. #2
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    You may want to look into paper tuning it with you hunting broadheads unless you are going to shoot mechanicals. Good groups now shoot the cams off bro.

  3. #3
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    It looks like you're pretty dialed in for 20 yards but I'm wondering how much impact shift you're talking about? Or are you aiming for the big bee in the center and hitting all around? Are you shooting target points or broadhead?

    Body position and natural point of aim have huge consequences down range, the longer the range the larger the consequences but at 20 yards there shouldn't be all that much and with moderate practice you should be able to hit a 2x2" square pretty consistently. It might be that you're forcing yourself to do something with the sights.

    The sights might also be part of the problem assuming that's a five-pin setup (hard to tell from photo) which I've always found to be too busy. I'd consider a 3 pin setup for either 10, 20 and 30 yards (probably best at your skill level) or 20, 30 or 40 (when you get better). You can bracket it pretty easily and with the latter can take it out to 50 with holds and practice.

    I'd recommend going to a dedicated archery store where the guys themselves are bow hunters. Some stores even have indoor ranges. Working out the kinks in technique (like elbow position).
    Last edited by Gutshot John; 08-09-10 at 09:09.
    It is bad policy to fear the resentment of an enemy. -Ethan Allen

  4. #4
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    I'm definitely with John on the sights. If this is a hunting bow, if it were me I'd go to a single pin sight. Depending on your hunting distances, the Rock is a plenty fast bow to shoot single pin to 20 - 25yards. But like firearms, sights are a personal preference so what works for you, works for you.

    What I find important and usually have to work out when getting ready for bow season is release and follow through. Even a minute lack of follow through (movement of the release hand, head or bow hand after release) will show up on the target. Notice the left and right of your arrows on the target, this is usually a result of head movement i.e. looking to see where the arrow went which in turn can move the bow sideways. I am definitely no expert but I hunt with a bow a lot (average about 15-20 days each year) and find myself working on this every year in the first week or so of practice (i.e. right now). John offered up good advice if you have a shop nearby or a local 3D club the lessons learned in an afternoon with a good shooter will help you out immensely. All that said your shots aren't bad.

    Hope this helps and again I'll state I am no master archer just passing on what was shown to me.

    Spence
    Last edited by vaspence; 08-09-10 at 10:17.

  5. #5
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    I did alot of digging online for examples of proper form so I have plenty to work on.

    I am aiming at each dot seperate. 1 target 1 arrow idea and the bee in the upper left side.

    Thanks for the input fellas!~!!!
    Brian Goode
    NC Knifemaker
    http://www.bgoodeknives.com

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bgoode View Post
    I did alot of digging online for examples of proper form so I have plenty to work on.
    That's a really good start but having another person who can troubleshoot your technique and tell you what you're doing wrong will save you a lot of aggravation. Having a good shop that knows you as a customer will yield dividends down the road not only as an archer but also as a source of information and intel when it comes to deer.

    Spence is absolutely correct in emphasizing follow-through and, in thinking about it, would explain the issue you're having with the sight. I'm no master archer (or even particularly good) either but I think you'll find that a bow and arrow fulfill a more pure marksmanship challenge in terms of technique being a never ending process of incremental perfection. I'd also agree that 3 is the most number of pins you should really use. The best bowhunters I know all use single-pins though I still use 3.
    Last edited by Gutshot John; 08-09-10 at 17:40.
    It is bad policy to fear the resentment of an enemy. -Ethan Allen

  7. #7
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    Now that you have made it clear that you are shooting at each spot you are really off to a great start!

    Remember your target area for whitetails is about eight inches when you factor in the heart and lungs. Your grouping far better than a paper plate. Stay within your ability and base yardage and distance on that. Bow hunting is an ethical sport and shot placement is very critical. There will be times you must pass on shots even if they are close because you don’t have the angle to put the arrow where it needs to be and that is OK because that is archery. You can’t break game animals down with a sharp stick like you can with a bullet.

    Your set up in general looks pretty good. Don’t choke the bow with your grip. It needs to be relaxed and the bow should jump out of your hand. That why there is a bow sling on it. Maintain back tension as you press the trigger, then continue to aim (concentrate) at the spot until the arrow hits the target. As mentioned, no peaking to see where the shot went. Your form needs to be rock steady and your follow through aggressive.

    Are you happy with your peep sight? Does it always open for you? Is the hole large enough to see the pins in low light? I would use a different peep sight on a hunting rig.

    Looking good, just keep doing things they same way and practice as much as you can. Work on estimating yardage as well.

    It never hurts to find a pro shop where you can take a lesson.

  8. #8
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    Thanks again guys!! Heading to shop tomorrow. I need more practice but I really like the purity of the bow. Do they make a Warren Tactical peep???
    Brian Goode
    NC Knifemaker
    http://www.bgoodeknives.com

  9. #9
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    Surz-a-Peep, all u need

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bgoode View Post
    Thanks again guys!! Heading to shop tomorrow. I need more practice but I really like the purity of the bow. Do they make a Warren Tactical peep???
    Taking it to a professional archery shop is the best idea. If nothing else, you'll get some excellent tips on your technique, but even more importantly, they can make sure that the bow even fits you. (Draw length, etc.) Since it was set up for someone else, even if it fits close enough for you to shoot well, it still may need some minor tweaks.

    I noticed your shed behind your archery target. Don't be surprised that if/ when you miss the target completely, an arrow will go right through the side of your shed. Been there, done that.

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