1911 Grip Screw Recommendation

[scottryan]

I'm looking for some hex or torx head grips screws for standard width grips.

I'm looking at Wilson, Ed Brown, C&S, Swenson, and EGW.

I need matte blue finish, matte blackened stainless would be better if such a thing exists.

What do you recommend?

Its going on a factory Colt with factory grip screw bushings.

[lifecycle]

Who knew my first post would be talking to another Nebraskan...
(albeit I am currently transplanted elsewhere)

Personally I have had good experiences with Ed Brown products myself, though you might want to consider supporting NE's economy and go with C&S.

I met Bill a few years ago at SHOT and he is very personable; give him a call and see what he can do for ya.

If you wanted that matte blackened stainless; you could have the screw grit blasted with Aluminum Oxide and then Roguard it.
Another option would be do a "conversion" coating process that produces a black chrome-sulfide.

Either way works and both improve corrosion resistance; a nice feature to have on a part that lives in the "suck" of salty, sweaty shooting hands.

Hope that helps.

[Shawn.L]

regarless of make (ive had a few and disnt notice any differences) I suggest flat heads. I have stripped both allen and torx heads, and if you have a screw start to back out and your grip get loose in the middle of a class or match its no prob to tighten a flat head up.

on a related note, I also prefer to use rubber washers on my grip screws so they dont back out and it eats up vibration.

[SWATcop556]

Any specific reason for the hex or torx screws?

[cdunn]

regarless of make (ive had a few and disnt notice any differences) I suggest flat heads. I have stripped both allen and torx heads, and if you have a screw start to back out and your grip get loose in the middle of a class or match its no prob to tighten a flat head up.

on a related note, I also prefer to use rubber washers on my grip screws so they dont back out and it eats up vibration.

+1 look at 10-8 they have new screws listed.
http://10-8performance.com/1911_Components.html
look near the bottom.

[Aubrey]

Internal hex and Torx and combo-head screws look kewl but have no great advantage of conventional slotted-head screws other than they are a bit less likely to get buggered up when torques are kept on the reasonable side. But, as stated above, having the appropriate driver available when you need it may be a problem. IIRC the original spec slotted screws could be turned with the rim of a .45 ACP casing. Hilton Yam has such screws on his 10-8 Performance web store, but the original screws from your Colt may be similar. Buy a few spares and replace them when/if they get buggered up.

There are many "improvements" that people make to their 1911s because they have to "customize" them that are a step backward IMO.

[TOrrock]

I actually replaced my Torx with standard slot screws.....since I'll always have a standard screw driver head with me or something that can be used as such.

After going through one fairly intensive handgun class with a Springfield MC Operator and their Torx head screws backing out under heavy fire evolutions, I went old school on all my 1911's.

[scottryan]

Interesting.

I was wanting the hex or torx cause I want to try several different grips on this gun.

I wanted to keep the factory screws in factory condition and not have them buggered up with constant removal and install.

I may just use the factory ones.

[scottryan]

on a related note, I also prefer to use rubber washers on my grip screws so they dont back out and it eats up vibration.

What do you use for a washer?

[Dave Berryhill]

regardless of make (ive had a few and disnt notice any differences) I suggest flat heads. I have stripped both allen and torx heads, and if you have a screw start to back out and your grip get loose in the middle of a class or match its no prob to tighten a flat head up....

Amen to that. Another reason is because the heads of most allen and torx grip screws break off fairly easily. The hole goes into the head of the screw and is close to the same diameter as the threaded shank, leaving only a thin ring of steel between the head and the shank (next time you break one off, take a close look at it )

I look at grip screws as being consumable so don't get emotionally attached to them. They are relatively cheap so use slotted screws and when they get boogered-up, toss them out and replace them with new ones.