Vltor MUR-1A upper cannot use just any armorer's action block.

[VaniB]

It has come to my attention, that due to the different contour and shape of the Vltor MUR-1A upper receiver, that my Model1 action block will likely not fit over it.

I'm intending on putting a new barrel and a new Vltor MU-1A uper receiver together. (ie; I'm not looking to take apart an already assembled Vltor and barrel)

My question to you is what tool should I use for the assembly of the Vltor upper and a barrel? Some guys say that the DPMS "claw" block (pictured below)exerts too much pressure on the lugs.

[CoryCop25]

Try a Bolckworx block.

[SHIVAN]

Put a 1x2 on the top rail, and underneath the upper...turn it 90º to upright and lock it in the vise. Field expedient method when the tools are at home...

PRi AR-10/AR-15 combo block will also work.

[LMTRocks]

Here's the PRI.


http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...VER_VISE_BLOCK

I don't have one but I use the Panther and have put 60 ft-lbs on a Grendel upper when putting a JP/VTac rifle length rail on and haven't heard anyhing about putting too much pressure on the lugs. My LMT upper has ben taken down a couple times and had different barrel nuts installed. Most recent is a YHM with 55ft-lbs on my torque wrench. Had I known about the PRI when I ordered my Panther I think I would've just gone with that one. Picatinny rail attachment is a nice option.

While I'm at it, here's a great barrel nut wrench.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...REL_NUT_WRENCH

[VaniB]

Here's the PRI.


http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...VER_VISE_BLOCK

I don't have one but I use the Panther and have put 60 ft-lbs on a Grendel upper when putting a JP/VTac rifle length rail on and haven't heard anyhing about putting too much pressure on the lugs. My LMT upper has ben taken down a couple times and had different barrel nuts installed. Most recent is a YHM with 55ft-lbs on my torque wrench. Had I known about the PRI when I ordered my Panther I think I would've just gone with that one. Picatinny rail attachment is a nice option.

While I'm at it, here's a great barrel nut wrench.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...REL_NUT_WRENCH

I'm definitely going to get that PRI barrel wrench.

It really PO's me that I went to order it tonight on Midway (it is advertised in their mailed circular), and they were out of it. I should have ordered it last night when they had it, because I could also have saved $10 on their Burris P.E.P.R mount which I intended to order and is on sale through tonight, Sept 30. (Midway sucks that they will not hold a complete order on the side for you for a week until they have everything. They send every little part as they get it in, and will charge you full shipping each time they ship each back-ordered item to you).

If worse comes to worse, I'll invest another $35-$40 on the dpms panther claw. I feel better putting a Delrin block in a receiver instead of a solid aluminum block like that PRI block. Some-how, perhaps it's better to have the receiver starting to torque in the delrin block (and give advance warning), then bend or get damaged in a non budging aluminum PRI block.

SHIVAN, thanks for the suggestion of using wood blocks, but I'd only resort to that if what I buy just won't work.
I'm a tradesmen and no stranger to making my own tools and contraptions when necessary, Here's a stockade styled tool I made in which two halves lock around a 308 DPMS fftube with dowels that pass through the openings in the tube. I used it to torque off a stuck FF tube while the DPMS upper is locked in a delrin 308 claw in my vise;

There was no strap wrench, WD40, or torch that I tried that was going to remove that FFtube without that 2"x4" stockade turning it off!

The problem is that I'm anal and prefer to use real tools first when possible. I can't stand scuff marks, marring, slipping, etc.

[SHIVAN]

I use the PRi. It works perfectly. I also have the delrin one in your first post. It's OK, but the PRi works better for me.

[VaniB]

I use the PRi. It works perfectly. I also have the delrin one in your first post. It's OK, but the PRi works better for me.

I take what you recommend seriously, being you're opinions carry a lot of experience and clout. Was it the aluminum PRI block in the photo that's posted that you are suggesting?....

Or, are you suggesting the "PRi AR-10/AR-15 combo block" that you mentioned in your post "will also work."
What tool is that? I looked for it on the web, and couldn't find it. Thanks.

[militarymoron]

My question to you is what tool should I use for the assembly of the Vltor upper and a barrel? Some guys say that the DPMS "claw" block (pictured below)exerts too much pressure on the lugs.

i use the one you have pictured - you'll see that although it's held in place by the lugs, the top part actually engages the charging handle channel inside the upper and supports it there, and at the lugs.
it supports it more than the PRI, which uses the lugs only, if that's what you're concerned about.

[SHIVAN]

I take what you recommend seriously, being you're opinions carry a lot of experience and clout. Was it the aluminum PRI block in the photo that's posted that you are suggesting?....

Or, are you suggesting the "PRi AR-10/AR-15 combo block" that you mentioned in your post "will also work."
What tool is that? I looked for it on the web, and couldn't find it. Thanks.

The combo one is made exactly like the one pictured, it just has another side for the 308 AR's too. I recommend either PRi version as "will work".

The delrin does engage more of the inside of the upper, but that's not something I am personally concerned with on my installs and work.

[Blankwaffe]

Put a 1x2 on the top rail, and underneath the upper...turn it 90º to upright and lock it in the vise. Field expedient method when the tools are at home...

PRi AR-10/AR-15 combo block will also work.

SHIVAN,
What do you think about this upper block set?


http://www.armalite.com/ItemForm.asp...3-50c7880935e0