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Thread: How to make a Kydex holster Picture Tutorial

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zhurdan View Post
    Are there any "high altitude" cooking instructions for the Kydex that I need to worry about?

    Kidding aside, thanks for posting this.

    So, about those belt loops, didn't see any update on those. They appear to be far easier and probably wouldn't take too much thought but if there are any tips/tricks... I'd very much appreciate it.
    None that I've found so far Good to see you brother.

    On belt loops, I took a piece of wood the size of valley I wanted in the belt loops. I heated up a sheet of the Kydex and set the press up so that top side has foam, and the bottom side is the metal platten. I then I place the wood on the bottom of the press. I take the heated sheet and place it over the wood and then lower the top of the press with the foam. Let it form and you have a sheet with a ridge down the middle. I then drill holes on either side of the valley at regular intervals, and then use a band saw to cut the sheet into strips with the two holes. A quick pass with a dremel or sanding disk to round the edges and Viola, you have 10-15 belt loops ready for eyelets.

    Now I have a question- how do you guys set the gun up for the mold when the gun has a X300 on it? I'm thinking about how you get the buldge behind the x300 so you can get the light out??? People have such nice looking cylinder shapes there, I know there has to be a trick.
    The Second Amendment ACKNOWLEDGES our right to own and bear arms that are in common use that can be used for lawful purposes. The arms can be restricted ONLY if subject to historical analogue from the founding era or is dangerous (unsafe) AND unusual.

    It's that simple.

  2. #102
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    Nevermind...
    Last edited by Irish; 03-02-11 at 20:06.

  3. #103
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    PVC pipe , find the size you want then cut it in half and sand it down to size needed. You can drill the pvc and run a screw through the trigger gaurd to hold in place

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by FromMyColdDeadHand View Post

    Now I have a question- how do you guys set the gun up for the mold when the gun has a X300 on it? I'm thinking about how you get the buldge behind the x300 so you can get the light out??? People have such nice looking cylinder shapes there, I know there has to be a trick.

    You can also use a dowel rod. I cut it to size and thickness with my table saw then finish up the details with my scroll saw. Also, i use blue painters tape to hold it in place.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by FromMyColdDeadHand View Post
    None that I've found so far Good to see you brother.

    On belt loops, I took a piece of wood the size of valley I wanted in the belt loops. I heated up a sheet of the Kydex and set the press up so that top side has foam, and the bottom side is the metal platten. I then I place the wood on the bottom of the press. I take the heated sheet and place it over the wood and then lower the top of the press with the foam. Let it form and you have a sheet with a ridge down the middle. I then drill holes on either side of the valley at regular intervals, and then use a band saw to cut the sheet into strips with the two holes. A quick pass with a dremel or sanding disk to round the edges and Viola, you have 10-15 belt loops ready for eyelets.
    Good to hear from you too Mark.

    So the wood on the bottom of the press, that's to keep the "gun side" of the belt loop flat so it's closer to the holster when bolted together I take it.

    When making the "loop" portion, is it better to make it a little oversized for the belt it'll be going on or make it as tight as possible? I'd think tighter is better but some of the ones you see in pictures look quite generous in size compared to the thickness of a good gun belt.
    Time flies when you throw your watch.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by abooth1179 View Post
    You can also use a dowel rod. I cut it to size and thickness with my table saw then finish up the details with my scroll saw. Also, i use blue painters tape to hold it in place.
    +1. I've had very good results doing it this way.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by abooth1179 View Post
    That is who I normally get my hardware from but I am wanting in a higher quantity and for a lot cheaper. This is what I am specifically looking for but I am open to other suggestions.

    http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/produc...oducts_id=1136
    I get the Chicago screws direct from Chicago Screws. I get the pan head screw from fastenersexpress.com. They both come in black. For the spacer, I use windshield washer tubing and cut to size. It's significantly cheaper than knifekits if you plan on making more than a couple holsters.

  8. #108
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    I have been to knife kits and they carry almost everything I need. But does anyone know of anywhere else that carries Kydex sheets? Knifekits seems to be out of stock on alot of the main colors I have attempted to order. Great thread, I am starting my holster on Sunday. All the work looks great guys.

  9. #109
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    BigHate,
    You might try http://www.usaknifemaker.com/. Most of the knifemaker supply houses carry Kydex/Concealex. Some have better color selections than others. Depending upon where you are, you may also be able to find a local source. You can check your Yellow Pages for plastic supply distributors.
    Last edited by Aubrey; 03-10-11 at 11:18.
    Aubrey<><

  10. #110
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    Blue Guns?

    For those that are using Rings Blue Guns, ASP Red Guns, or Blackhawk Gray/Orange demonstration guns, I'm curious if you've found dimensional accuracy to be sufficient for forming and whether you have a preference between the different brands. Many thanks in advance for any feedback.
    Aubrey<><

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