SA M1a op rod

[Watchman]

Greetings,

I cannot fully field strip my Springfield M1A scout. I can't get the op rod out. I can sorta get it to engage the notch on the receiver but it just doesn't want to pop out. Am I missing something?

Thanks.

[TOrrock]

Greetings,

I cannot fully field strip my Springfield M1A scout. I can't get the op rod out. I can sorta get it to engage the notch on the receiver but it just doesn't want to pop out. Am I missing something?

Thanks.

No, you're not. It's an example of the poor QC that Springfield has with their commercial parts, I've seen this many times.

Honestly, you just have to python it out.

How many rounds through it? Sometimes it gets better as the round count goes up.

[Different]

Watchman, take a look at the operating rod dismount notch. There's likely a small "step" up from the operating rod channel. That's typical of SA, Inc. and Armscorp receivers. It's machined that way, intentionally. Why? The reason for it is that it makes it harder for a worn operating rod to detach itself from the receiver during the cycle of operation. As you noticed, it also makes it harder to field strip the rifle for cleaning.

To remove the operating rod on such a receiver, I take an old t-shirt and wrap it around the operating rod handle and then latch on to the handle with a pair of vise grips. Using the vise grips, I pull outward and slightly upward to remove the operatnig rod. As Templar mentioned, it will get easier with more rounds fired. HTH

[Watchman]

something just over 100 rounds so I think I'll clean around it for now. Thanks for the suggestion, I have thick rubber tubing I can put over the handle in the event vice grips are needed. Oh well, a live and learn purchase. Word is the hammer and extractor are weak points. Some say, replace now as good parts are getting scarce, others say shoot it till it breaks, parts are available. Any opinion on this?

I did have to push the front sight to the right a little, not enough to consider an index problem, maybe .5mm max. My only real complaint is mag changes are a bit of a man handle operation. I've been told I can take sandpaper to the stock but to be careful to not remove too much material.

It certainly shoots well enough for my aging eyes and I did try to put on a cheapy red dot but the stock just doesn't work well. No cheek weld to speak of, I''ll need some sort of doo dad for the stock. The trigger is rather nice though, crisp and clean, not too heavy and not too light. I wish my AR factory trigger was that nice.

[Different]

Take a look at the right hand side of the hammer. If you see the letters "SA" and what looks to be a manufacture date indicator, I recommend replacing it with a USGI M1 Garand or M14 hammer. The recent (last three years) commercial SA, Inc. hammers have had issues, e.g., hook breaks off or uneven hooks. I have a photo of the former and I've seen the latter first hand.

The geometry is not quite right on the commercial SA, Inc. extractors. They work okay, most of the time. For peace of mind, get a USGI M1 Garand or M14 extractor. Note that if you install a M1 Garand extractor, you should not fire M82 blank cartridges. The M1 extractor may jump out of the bolt during the cycle of operation when firing M82 cartridges. Otherwise, the M1 Garand extractor works fine.

On the magazine changes, it does take getting used to rocking it in instead of slamming straight up.

Some folks like the hard material cheek rests that are bolted on to the traditional stock. I use a strap on fabric cheek rest for my scoped M1A. It's personal preference.

[TOrrock]

To remove the operating rod on such a receiver, I take an old t-shirt and wrap it around the operating rod handle and then latch on to the handle with a pair of vise grips. Using the vise grips, I pull outward and slightly upward to remove the operatnig rod. As Templar mentioned, it will get easier with more rounds fired. HTH

I've had to do that for people. It does get better the more you shoot it, but it shouldn't be that way.

[Different]

I've had to do that for people. It does get better the more you shoot it, but it shouldn't be that way.

Agreed, the dismount notch step is a design feature on some brands of commercial receivers. It's unnecessary and annoying.

[Watchman]

If the issue with the extractor doesn't have anything to do with breakage I think I'll leave it as is. The gun is very consistent with tossing brass using mil-surplus and Federal match ammo.

The hammer has no markings. Nothing on the right and as far as I can see, nothing on the left but I haven't pulled apart the trigger group yet.

I've shot mini 14's and AK's enough so no problems with how it works but the mag well is tight. I have to muscle them in and out with the factory and CMI mags I picked up.

BTW, I added a NM sling from Turner Saddlery. Two thumbs up on an excellent piece of leather.

Thanks!

[Different]

The extractor is doing just fine. Look for letters or numbers on the front side of the hammer. Depending on how it is marked will identify it as a M1 Garand or a M14 hammer and who the manufacturer was. HTH

[Watchman]

Cool. I didn't feel like futzing with the bolt anyway.

I pulled the trigger group apart, the hammer is clean, no markings on it at all.