Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 23

Thread: Glock Stippling Question...Edit: Well I finally did it

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    1,217
    Feedback Score
    45 (100%)

    Glock Stippling Question...Edit: Well I finally did it

    Hi guys, I've been reading a lot on the threads and watching a lot of youtube.com videos on stippling to prepare for the day I get enough guts to take the soldering iron to my G17.

    I used to use the Hogue Handall sleeve and I like the feel of it, but I think it makes the gun just a bit large for me and causes me to to shoot to the left when under speed/stress or on timed drills (bad excuse for shitty trigger control I know). At a 3 day TigerSwan Pistol/Carbine class, JD suggested that I try shooting without the sleeve to see how things went. His hands were bigger than mine and he didn't like the swell in the grip.

    Once I got home I experimented. With the sleeve I can only get just in front of the pad of my index finger on the trigger. Taking the Hogue off, I smoothed out the texture of the backstrap with some 600 grit sandpaper which reduced the grip circumference (didn't change the grip angle), but its now too slick. However, I can now get the center of the pad of my trigger finger on the trigger. I tried using a bike inner tube, but don't like the feel of it, so stippling is going to be it.

    I tried stippling a Glock mag loader last night. My wife told me it looked like ass and felt like a pumice stone . She also said "Why would anyone want to do that to their guns?!" She didn't even like the look of Ben's Boresight modified guns. So, she's not the best person to ask about stippling. Anyways, give me your honest opinion, if it looks like shit, let me know, I can take it and will try to perfect the pattern a bit more.









    It is still a bit shiny because I haven't taken any sandpaper to it yet. Any tips are also welcome.
    Last edited by uwe1; 02-06-11 at 14:55.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    103
    Feedback Score
    0

    too hot?

    you might try using a wood burning tool. I'm thinking its all shiny maybe because a soldering iron burns hotter, melting more plastic.

    I've been using a wood burning kit I got from Walmart for $12. Works really well, isn't shiny at all.

    Using a heat gun...now that got things shiny. I did a grip reduction first on my G19 before applying stippling. It came out fairly well.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    1,217
    Feedback Score
    45 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by LHQuattro View Post
    you might try using a wood burning tool. I'm thinking its all shiny maybe because a soldering iron burns hotter, melting more plastic.

    I've been using a wood burning kit I got from Walmart for $12. Works really well, isn't shiny at all.

    Using a heat gun...now that got things shiny. I did a grip reduction first on my G19 before applying stippling. It came out fairly well.
    You're probably right about the heat. The soldering iron I got was a medium duty 40 watt one which gets quite hot. The plastic melted rather quickly, but I was very careful not to get it too deep. I alternated with shallow and deep touches, trying not to get any particular pattern to show up.

    I think if I hit the whole thing with a light pass of 600 grit sandpaper it will take the shine off. The cool thing about the very hot iron is that no plastic gets stuck on the tip of the iron. The resulting texture isn't as abrasive, but it's still grippy.

    Does the pattern look ok?
    Last edited by uwe1; 12-12-10 at 17:08.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SW GA
    Posts
    35
    Feedback Score
    0
    I think it looks pretty good. I wish I could do it that well with a pointed tip. Luckily, I like the "treebark" look you get from a flat tip a bit better anyway.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    106
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)
    I have done numerous glock grip reductions and stippling and I agree that a woodburner is the best tool. I like the treebark look and feel better than dimples. But, I still like my Bowie Tactical Concepts glocks a lot better than the ones I did. It takes about 5months and costs around $300 but it is worth it! Trust me!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    1,204
    Feedback Score
    7 (100%)
    If that has enough texture for you, drive on with it.



    I went a little deeper on mine. I first experimented with different patterns, then wrapped my fingers on them and saw what kind of purchase I got at different angles.





    If you don't care what it looks like afterwards, just do it yourself. The BTC samples I've held/shot were extreemly well done, and look much better than DIY jobs...but often times the DIY jobs do what you need them to do, just fine.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    94
    Feedback Score
    0
    Your initial effort looks good to me.

    I'd try a 25W iron however.
    Eric Rice
    VP R&D
    Daniel Defense, Inc.
    www.danieldefense.com

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    358
    Feedback Score
    0
    I'm considering getting a 19 to play with. However after yrs. of 1911s and SIGs the damned thing feels like a 2x4. What kind of epoxies are used when doing a reduction. I've got the "treebark" pattern down really well by doing some FAL grips and forends.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,571
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    I think the shininess may have something to do with the type of plastic. It's just a cheap mag loader.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    103
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Falboy View Post
    I'm considering getting a 19 to play with. However after yrs. of 1911s and SIGs the damned thing feels like a 2x4. What kind of epoxies are used when doing a reduction. I've got the "treebark" pattern down really well by doing some FAL grips and forends.
    I used "gray" colored Marine Tex epoxy. Its a fairly thick consistency, and the color matches the black Glock frame very well....until it's sanded. Then its a dark gray. Once its hardened up though, forget texturing it. Any texturing would have to be done before its fully cured. I'll try and upload a picture later.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •