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Thread: SAR 1 Range outing

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    If you've gotten to handle an Arsenal SLR-106, 107, or the SGL series, they have this trigger group installed at the factory:

    http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.ph...0&bestseller=Y

    It's a faux two stage trigger.....with a bit of up take and then more resistance at the very end. Some people like them, some don't.

    I personally really do like them. They definitely help me stage the trigger for a more precise shot.

    Also, if you have an AK built on a Nodak receiver, Nodak advises (and sells) that the K-Var FCG works best in their receivers.
    Employee of colonialshooting.com

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Templar View Post
    If you've gotten to handle an Arsenal SLR-106, 107, or the SGL series, they have this trigger group installed at the factory:

    http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.ph...0&bestseller=Y

    It's a faux two stage trigger.....with a bit of up take and then more resistance at the very end. Some people like them, some don't.

    I personally really do like them. They definitely help me stage the trigger for a more precise shot.

    Also, if you have an AK built on a Nodak receiver, Nodak advises (and sells) that the K-Var FCG works best in their receivers.
    Something I've meant to ask. My SA93 came with a "smooth" trigger that basically had little resistance during its pull. When I converted it from the thumbhole stock I put a G2 trigger that has the exact same feel.

    My SAR1 on the other hand had what felt more like a two stage trigger (a crappy two-stage, but a two stage). It had a lot of trigger slap and the gun was junk compared to the Bulgarian. I sold it to fund the SA93 conversion.

    My question is which trigger is more "right" for a real AK? I would assume the SA93 which had Bulgarian parts, but not ever having fired a real AK, I don't know?
    “The ruling class doesn’t care about public safety. Having made it very difficult for States and localities to police themselves, having left ordinary citizens with no choice but to protect themselves as best they can, they now try to take our guns away. In fact they blame us and our guns for crime. This is so wrong that it cannot be an honest mistake.” – former U.S. Sen. Malcolm Wallop (R-Wy.)

  3. #13
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    Thanks, Templar. I'm probably going to switch to the KVAR trigger group.

    One thing that really helped my latest SAR-1 is getting the muzzle crowned. It seemed to tighten the groups by about 30-40%.

  4. #14
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobra66 View Post
    Something I've meant to ask. My SA93 came with a "smooth" trigger that basically had little resistance during its pull. When I converted it from the thumbhole stock I put a G2 trigger that has the exact same feel.

    My SAR1 on the other hand had what felt more like a two stage trigger (a crappy two-stage, but a two stage). It had a lot of trigger slap and the gun was junk compared to the Bulgarian. I sold it to fund the SA93 conversion.

    My question is which trigger is more "right" for a real AK? I would assume the SA93 which had Bulgarian parts, but not ever having fired a real AK, I don't know?
    Milled Type III guns and the Chicom Type 56 stamped guns have a double hook trigger system which gives a VERY smooth pull. The AKM/AK-74 has a single hook trigger and is much more prone to being slappy, gritty, and not quite as consistent.
    Employee of colonialshooting.com

  5. #15
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    An SAR was my first magazine feed semi-auto rifle, and I love mine. If I only have one AK left, it will be that one.

    No canting, but it did have some trigger slap. I dropped in a G2 and retaining plate, and its been great.

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