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Thread: Where to start reloading for a SCAR 17?

  1. #1
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    Where to start reloading for a SCAR 17?

    Any advice would be appreciated on what bullet, weight, powder and primer to start hand loading for my wife and I new SCAR 17s. I have reloaded in the past but it has been a while and I would just like to hear a few thoughts on where to start. I plan on just loading to put holes in paper as close together as possible. We do hunt with these rifles, but it is a while until deer season.

    Thanks
    Possum

  2. #2
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    "For punching holes in paper" I usually search for something more affordable (=more trigger time). Widner's has 145 gr mil-spec bullets for $266 for 2k. Hopefully you already have some brass saved up. As for powder either Varget or RL-15 should do you fine, or even Win 748, which meters very well. See which you can find the best deal on.

    As for primers I usually buy whatever I can find or get the best deal on. For rifle I've had good success with both CCI and Remington. As you probably noticed when it comes to hole punching I try to save as much as possible.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by 2risky; 02-15-11 at 19:21.

  3. #3
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    I will be loading for a SCAR, LMT and a Rock River. Any recommendations for a more accurate bullet?

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    You guys should start with the ammo forum over at TFL.

    There's a lot of knowledge over there on reloading .308/7.62.

    FWIW, Hornady bulk 150gr FMJBTs are rumored to more accurate and barely less inexpensive than other bulk bullets.
    Sierra MatchKings (168s or 175s) seem to be the standard bullet for accuracy, but they're not cheap.

  5. #5
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    I've found my LMT MWS likes 150gr Hornady FMJ over 43.5gr of Varget seated to the cannelure. Works just fine with assorted brass and large primers.

    FYI: Midway has the Hornady .308 bullets in stock and on sale right now.
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    My FALs and a Rem bolt gun plus an Ishy C&R like the Hornady FMJs and Varget, though not quite as well as Aussie 7.62. I seat longer than the cannelure, btw.

    Pay attention to the brass - commercial .308 (unlike .223) does have thinner brass than military; and more internal volume. Back off the book recommendations at least a full grain (or more) if using 7.62 brass. Back off a little more if using CCI No. 34 (7.62) primers.

    In the FALs, I had better luck with the Hornady 150 gr bullets than the premium heavy stuff, but YMMV. Best accuracy was with 150 gr Nosler BTs, although I've shot very few in a semi auto.

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    For punching paper I would expect the WC846 / WC846T bulk powders would work pretty well. It is basically W748/BLC2 which is made for 308 stuff. I have not loaded this personally but it would be a place to start.
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    Thanks for the info. I am thinking of trying to duplicate the LC Match M852 with 41.5gr of IMR 4895 and 168gr serria match king. I would then use a comparable weight expanding bullet for hunting use. I use DAG for trigger time. My brass is all once fired LC. I am averaging 2MOA at 100 with surplus and I what to see if I can trim that a little with reloads.

    Thanks again

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    One more question, can brass that has been outside and turned dark be safely reloaded? How long do you let your brass stay in the tumbler? Thanks for the info.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Possum 20 View Post
    One more question, can brass that has been outside and turned dark be safely reloaded? How long do you let your brass stay in the tumbler? Thanks for the info.
    Yes - Some tarnish should not hurt a thing. Time in the tumbler depends. An hour or so depending on the tumbler, condition of the media, and polish used. A couple or three hours won't hurt if you want to really shine them up. But don't forget and leave them in all day - they get scratched up (AMHIK).

    I'm using the smaller Dillon tumbler right now - not the most efficient. I usually go ~1.5 hrs on the initial and then another hour when removing the lube. Just personal preference.

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