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Thread: Mora Knives Only

  1. #1
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    Mora Knives Only

    I just finished Cody Lundin's 98.6 Degrees, The Art of Keeping Your ASS ALIVE! (Great Book)

    He clearly likes and uses Mora Knives. I have read about them little on this website but there isn't enough info on them. Most of the info here and there regarding the topic is limited to "I like them and they are cheap" posts (unless I missed something).
    I went ahead and ordered three Frosts Mora Knives from ASE Best Glide based on Cody's recommendations in the book. He only designated about two pages to the knife so I thought we could compile more information here.
    Why did you buy one?
    What do you like/dislike about them?
    How long has it lasted?
    What are the limitations?
    Best way to sharpen?
    Is there a best brand/style?
    Best carry method?
    How do you use them?
    ...And any other good info.................

    As the title reads "Mora Knives Only" please don't cloud up the thread with anything not pertaining to Mora-style Knives.

    D
    Praise be to the LORD my Rock, who trains my hands for war, my fingers for battle. Psalm 144:1

    Owner of MI-TAC, LLC .

    @MichiganTactical

  2. #2
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    Do you happen to know the steel material? For that price, if they have quality steel I'll definitely have to grab one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by t42beal13t View Post
    Do you happen to know the steel material? For that price, if they have quality steel I'll definitely have to grab one.
    I have CLippers with both Stainless and carbon blades love them been using and abusing them for years as woods and camp and hunting knives and just usually strop them up and they are back to hair popping sharpness. I made my own simple kydex sheaths or use factory ones I carry them in my man bag that is always with me. Its funny when you use and abuse a knife that is this cheap its hard to go to top dollar ones. These have their place. The Mora or Frost is the SAK of the fixed blade world. Is there better yes but these are really good

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    .

    It has been years since I kept up with knives but I think the Mora's used a "sandwiched" steel. Two soft layers of steel that support a hard steel in the center. I think it was a Swedish? composition.

    I don't know about Frost now but years ago, they generally only had r-e-a-l-l-y cheap knives. I think he was kin to Jim Parker or something like that.

    .
    Last edited by ucrt; 02-21-11 at 18:20.

  5. #5
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    I have a Mora in my car kit. It's not a bad knife for the price. I've had mine for 10 years now and it just needs a resharpening after chopping small branches with it. I have 3 brand new ones in backup since they are so cheap. Don't get me wrong I love my Spydercos, but you can't beat the Mora for a cheap camp knife.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by t42beal13t View Post
    Do you happen to know the steel material? For that price, if they have quality steel I'll definitely have to grab one.
    Looks good enough to try for $15.
    Hope this helps:

    Different Steels Grades from Frosts

    The Clipper is Sandvik Stainless

    Ease of sharpening in the field is apparently one of the reasons these knives are so popular (besides the cost). In Lundin's book he goes into why it sharpens easy but IIRC he states heavy use will make them require frequent sharpening.
    D
    Praise be to the LORD my Rock, who trains my hands for war, my fingers for battle. Psalm 144:1

    Owner of MI-TAC, LLC .

    @MichiganTactical

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave L. View Post
    Looks good enough to try for $15.
    Hope this helps:

    Different Steels Grades from Frosts

    The Clipper is Sandvik Stainless

    Ease of sharpening in the field is apparently one of the reasons these knives are so popular (besides the cost). In Lundin's book he goes into why it sharpens easy but IIRC he states heavy use will make them require frequent sharpening.
    D
    Yeah actual steel information was what I was looking for. Thanks for the links

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    Quote Originally Posted by t42beal13t View Post
    Yeah actual steel information was what I was looking for. Thanks for the links
    EDIT:

    I found the information you seek: It's Sandvik 12C27.

    I bought 3, one for both my vehicles and one for my brother who is an avid backpacker.

    Hopefully that link will help; my Google-Force is strong today.
    Last edited by Dave L.; 02-22-11 at 03:34. Reason: found info with the google machine
    Praise be to the LORD my Rock, who trains my hands for war, my fingers for battle. Psalm 144:1

    Owner of MI-TAC, LLC .

    @MichiganTactical

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave L. View Post
    EDIT:

    I found the information you seek: It's Sandvik 12C27.

    I bought 3, one for both my vehicles and one for my brother who is an avid backpacker.

    Hopefully that link will help; my Google-Force is strong today.
    Here's the link I use to research knife steel from Bladeforums.com. Thanks for your due diligence.

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    Mora Knives

    At my primitive living and survival skills school here in Maine, we reccomend the carbon steel Mora's to people for a first knife. They are cheap, and amazing quality. (keeps an edge and very durable) this lets students use and abuse the knife cheaply and then once they have used it enough to decide what they like and dislike about it, they can spend the money to buy a more expenisive knife. Also work as back up knives/kit knives.

    Some of the things i do not like (though for the price i still love em)..

    Not full tang. This is a big no-no for a survival knife for me. Most models are partial tang. Many cheap knives are atleast Pin Tang. This is where the tang does travel the length of the handle but it is significantly narrower then the blade itself (like a ka-bar). Ether way, this results in a weak point at the blade/handle junction. Though i would rather have a full tang, ill admit ive never broken one.

    The sheath. The sheath is absolutely terrible. What do you expect for a 10-15 dollar knife but still. Not something i like to carry on me. Fine for a bugout bag or car. The rentention is sketchy at best and not something you want to roll/jump around with.

    The blade shape Though mora offers many models, the common ones utalize a Clip Point blade. This results in a pointyer blade which many do desire for stabbing bad guys. I have a folder and an M&Pc for poking holes in people so its not important to me. Id rather my bushcraft/survival knife have a beefier tip (IE DROP POINT) to withstand more abuse.

    The carbon steel one rocks for heavy bushcraft use, but obviously will rust if not cleaned and oiled. Because of this it is sometimes tricky to include them in seldom opened survival kits. I do, but i lube the hell out of them with motor oil (nice and thick) or bicycle chain grease. And check them/ reoil them whenever i remember too.

    My lifestyle does not allow me to carry a sheath knife on me 24/7 so i have to downgrade to a folder. However a fixedblade is really the way to go for SHTF and survival.

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