Mora Knives Only

[Dave L.]

Do you carry oil with to use the small pocket stone or does it work well enough with water or spit?

I used it dry at the time and it worked fine. I'm not sure how hard that is on the stone and blade, but I'm sure oil would be better to use than dry. I'm not actually sure what the recommendation is in the instructions that came with the stone, I'll have to go back and read them before I use it again.

[Steve70]

I just got one for $12.

[JasonB1]

Found a cut away view of a Robust, scroll down to post #16:

http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showth...-Edition/page2

[ra2bach]

Found a cut away view of a Robust, scroll down to post #16:

http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showth...-Edition/page2

how is the Robust different than a Companion?

[JasonB1]

Looks like the blade is thicker on the Robust versus the Companion, but not really sure what the difference is in the Robust versus the Companion Heavy Duty.

http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html

[ra2bach]

Looks like the blade is thicker on the Robust versus the Companion, but not really sure what the difference is in the Robust versus the Companion Heavy Duty.

http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html

thanks. this is their description which is directly below the Companion Heavy Duty -- "#10315: The Robust is a similar model with more neutral coloring. The sheath and trim are dark gray, and the handle overlay is light gray. It comes with the new "dual sheath", which has a post on the front to allow attachment of another knife or other tool. Again, the carbon steel blade is about 4 inches long, 3/4" wide, and .126" thick. $15 ". it seems both knives are carbon steel.

the Robust/Companion Heavy Duty is a nice improvement for Mora aficionados but since I have Fallknivens for heavy use, the Moras are kept as backup and for lighter tasks like food prep, twine cutting, splinter removal, etc.. I keep them razor sharp with a Smith's Pocket Pal Sharpener -- http://www.smithsproducts.com/produc...ife-sharpener/

I was surprised to find the Companion MG (Military Green) Carbon blade is .080" thick, while the Stainless version is .098", not that it makes any difference I can see. I have both versions. the carbons ride clipped into the molle on my packs. the stainless slip into the waistband of my shorts while swimming or boating...

[K.L. Davis]

I don't know about Frost now but years ago, they generally only had r-e-a-l-l-y cheap knives. I think he was kin to Jim Parker or something like that.

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Just a heads up... I think you are talking about a different Frost - not really fair to compare the Frosts/Mora to Frost Cutlery

[K.L. Davis]

I have and have had several Moras, they are wonderful knives at a super price. Below is the pic that they provide to show the tang on the bushcraft series knives... it is not a full tang, but given everything the knives are capable of, there is no reason not to own one (or more!). I tell people... if you take 50 bucks, buy a Mora and a good machete or camp knife, you will be way more prepared than about half of the folks I have met with a lot more money tied up in one knife.

[ra2bach]

I have and have had several Moras, they are wonderful knives at a super price. ...given everything the knives are capable of, there is no reason not to own one (or more!). I tell people... if you take 50 bucks, buy a Mora and a good machete or camp knife, you will be way more prepared than about half of the folks I have met with a lot more money tied up in one knife.

this is true. but depending on the whether I am overland traveling (hiking) or based out of a camp, rather than a machete I carry a Fiskars hatchet. there is really nothing that this hatchet and a Mora can't do other than breaking trail. my favorite two-blade combination for bushcraft is a 6"-7.5" knife and a Leatherman that includes a saw blade. but since it's so light (and cheap), I always have a Mora stashed somewhere...

[Jim D]

I think they're probably the best "survival" knife to recommend to people. As has been said there are very few necessary survival tasks that can not be accomplished with these knives.

I experimented with one of the Clippers or Companions (i don't remember anymore) where I drilled out the handle and set in a waterproof tube vault in the handle. I drilled down till I hit the tang, which was probably half way though the handle, and I drilled in with a 1/2" bit.

I batoned the crap out of that knife even after all of that modification and had zero problems reducing about 5 logs into kindling, batoning through all of them. The concern over the tang length seems to be completely academic to me now. Everyone you talk to says they fear it happening, but you can't find ANYONE who's done it. And if you can do it, show me how you did it in a way that I would have to fear in a survival scenario, then I'll go back to worrying about it.

I made a kydex sheath for my Mora, and built it so I could wear it around the neck, or on the belt. I also attached a few items to that sheath to make it into a mini-kit of it's own (micro led keychain light, metal match, paracord, micro compass, etc). I've thought about offering them to others, but selling a $30-40 sheath for a $10 knife probably wouldn't interest too many folks. It has since been stolen, so I don't have pics or anything to show.

As for what model, I now prefer stainless after having lost a carbon steel one to laziness and rust, and something with a comfortable grip and a finger guard. The Companion, Craftline, Bushcraft, or High Q Robust all look excellent and I believe hand size and grip preference is the biggest reason to select one over the other.

I bought a Light My Fire one to replace the one I lost, and will rebuild a mini-kit around a sheath I make for that.

I have dozens of knives, including custom pieces like the Bloodshark... but for survival knives, the Mora's are all that I need. They're also cheap enough that you can stage them in 3 or 4 places where you might want them (vehicle kit, backpacks, toolbox) and you're still not even out the cost of something like an SRK, Fallkniven F1, or ESEE 4.