Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 43

Thread: $500 ready to spend

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    91
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)
    Ok great, thanks for all your help, I might end up going with the dillon I've got to check prices.

    Thanks,
    Floyd
    "After coming into contact with a religious man I always feel I must wash my hands."
    -Friedrich Nietzsche

    FOX is NOT news, its entertainment



    "AND ITS HARD. . .TO HOLD BACK THE HATE"

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lynnwood, WA
    Posts
    383
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Do you need to chamfer and debur after the dillon trims your brass?
    Nope the RT1200B cuts super clean, I just tumble of the lube in 50/50 dry walnut and corncob which cleans off any minor burrs that may be left behind.
    Here's a link to a thread at BE that a guy posted post trimm pics on
    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/inde...owtopic=130102
    I load Horandy FMFBT's and no chamfer is necessary. Gotta love it!
    Last edited by Boxerglocker; 06-06-11 at 15:07.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    32,948
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Boxerglocker View Post
    I load Horandy FMFBT's and no chamfer is necessary. Gotta love it!
    That sounds perfect.

    I do have the possum hollow turd and a Wilson case trimmer. The possum is pretty bad but you can do a little volume. The Wilson is awesome, but volume sucks.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lynnwood, WA
    Posts
    383
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    That sounds perfect.

    I do have the possum hollow turd and a Wilson case trimmer. The possum is pretty bad but you can do a little volume. The Wilson is awesome, but volume sucks.
    What machine do you load on?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    32,948
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)
    I have a 550b and a LNL classic single stage.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    534
    Feedback Score
    5 (100%)
    As someone who is pretty new to reloading as well, I would strongly suggest starting with a single stage press. I believe that you need to have a thorough understanding of the fundementals of reloading before moving to a progressive press, where there are up to 4 operations happening simultaniously (that is alot to keep track of for a beginner). Aside from being potentially dangerous if you are not paying great attention to detail, operating a progressive press as a beginner could also be a bit of a pain if you don't have a good grasp on setting up dies properly and things of that nature. I have been loading on a Lee Challenger for a couple years now and I have never once wished I had a progressive press. I measure each individual case length, cartrige overall length, and weigh each powder charge individually. I do all of my brass prep before hand (for example, I decap/resize, clean and if necessary trim, then prime) in large batches and put the primed, ready to load cases in gallon ice cream buckets. Once I am to this point, it only takes about an hour to charge and seat bullets in 100 cases. And that time includes measuring EVERYTHING to ensure my reloads will be safe. To me, the quality control you can get with a single stage press far outweighs the faster production of ammo you get with a progressive. It's not about cranking out ammo as fast as you can at first, it is about being safe and learning the ins and outs of the process. And if one day you do decide to move onto a progressive press, you can use your single stage for precision loads or maybe another application.

    Try to relate this thinking to the recommendations given to new folks looking to purchase an AR. Start with the basics, learn the system (and its limits for your application), AND THEN decide what you need to add or change in order to suite your needs.

    This is just my opinion and it is worth exactly what you paid for it.

    Stay safe and good luck on your purchase!

    Mark

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lynnwood, WA
    Posts
    383
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I have a 550b and a LNL classic single stage.
    The RT1200B will work just as well on the RL550B.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lynnwood, WA
    Posts
    383
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by mhanna91 View Post
    As someone who is pretty new to reloading as well, I would strongly suggest starting with a single stage press. I believe that you need to have a thorough understanding of the fundementals of reloading before moving to a progressive press, where there are up to 4 operations happening simultaniously (that is alot to keep track of for a beginner). Aside from being potentially dangerous if you are not paying great attention to detail, operating a progressive press as a beginner could also be a bit of a pain if you don't have a good grasp on setting up dies properly and things of that nature. I have been loading on a Lee Challenger for a couple years now and I have never once wished I had a progressive press. I measure each individual case length, cartrige overall length, and weigh each powder charge individually. I do all of my brass prep before hand (for example, I decap/resize, clean and if necessary trim, then prime) in large batches and put the primed, ready to load cases in gallon ice cream buckets. Once I am to this point, it only takes about an hour to charge and seat bullets in 100 cases. And that time includes measuring EVERYTHING to ensure my reloads will be safe. To me, the quality control you can get with a single stage press far outweighs the faster production of ammo you get with a progressive. It's not about cranking out ammo as fast as you can at first, it is about being safe and learning the ins and outs of the process. And if one day you do decide to move onto a progressive press, you can use your single stage for precision loads or maybe another application.
    Lastly, I'll state as you did my advice is also free so take it or leave it. For me however reloading is merely a means of doing what I really want to do which is shoot allot in training and competition not spend hour upon hour loading rounds to shoot.

    Try to relate this thinking to the recommendations given to new folks looking to purchase an AR. Start with the basics, learn the system (and its limits for your application), AND THEN decide what you need to add or change in order to suite your needs.

    This is just my opinion and it is worth exactly what you paid for it.

    Stay safe and good luck on your purchase!

    Mark
    Sorry, have to burst your bubble Mark. The reality I have learned and witnessed is in most cases using a single stage you'll actually have the more likely potential to miss something.
    A LCT can be used just like a single stage but you have the advantage of higher production putting out one round ever 4 pulls. The round does not leave the case holder till completed. Same with a progressive once set up you just watch your powder drops and do a quality check every 50 or 100 rounds. I started on a LCT, moved to 2 SDB's and now a XL650 have well over 130K rounds loaded in 4 and a half years with zero issues. I load 2.5K a month in 9mm 500-700 of .223, have loaded .380 and .45 ACP and .40 S&W as well. Your statement regarding QC using a SS is IMO very misleading, it is not always the case. That depends on the individual and his/her aptitude for learning the processes and their personal attention to detail.
    Last edited by Boxerglocker; 06-06-11 at 16:56.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    8,848
    Feedback Score
    7 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Do you need to chamfer and debur after the dillon trims your brass?
    No. No need to. A carbide blade movie at 5k-7k rpm makes a clean cut.
    • formerly known as "eguns-com"
    • M4Carbine required notice/disclaimer: I run eguns.com
    •eguns.com has not been actively promoted in a long time though I still do Dillon special
    orders, etc. and I have random left over inventory.
    •"eguns.com" domain name for sale (not the webstore). Serious enquiries only.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    8,848
    Feedback Score
    7 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by mhanna91 View Post
    As someone who is pretty new to reloading as well, I would strongly suggest starting with a single stage press. I believe that you need to have a thorough understanding of the fundementals of reloading before moving to a progressive press,
    This is one of the biggest myths out there. A single stage press is no easier to learn on. It is really not. In fact it could be harder as you are screwing around with the press a lot more. And the disjointedness of the process on a single stage makes it harder to get the big picture of the overall process.

    Treat your progressive like a single stage in terms of just running one case at a time through it.

    where there are up to 4 operations happening simultaniously (that is alot to keep track of for a beginner). Aside from being potentially dangerous if you are not paying great attention to detail, operating a progressive press as a beginner could also be a bit of a pain if you don't have a good grasp on setting up dies properly and things of that nature.
    Setting up dies on a progressive is not any harder than on a single stage. And if you use separate seating and crimp dies on a progressive, it is easier.

    I have been loading on a Lee Challenger for a couple years now and I have never once wished I had a progressive press. I measure each individual case length, cartrige overall length, and weigh each powder charge individually. I do all of my brass prep before hand (for example, I decap/resize, clean and if necessary trim, then prime) in large batches and put the primed, ready to load cases in gallon ice cream buckets. Once I am to this point, it only takes about an hour to charge and seat bullets in 100 cases. And that time includes measuring EVERYTHING to ensure my reloads will be safe. To me, the quality control you can get with a single stage press far outweighs the faster production of ammo you get with a progressive. It's not about cranking out ammo as fast as you can at first, it is about being safe and learning the ins and outs of the process. And if one day you do decide to move onto a progressive press, you can use your single stage for precision loads or maybe another application.

    Try to relate this thinking to the recommendations given to new folks looking to purchase an AR. Start with the basics, learn the system (and its limits for your application), AND THEN decide what you need to add or change in order to suite your needs.

    This is just my opinion and it is worth exactly what you paid for it.

    Stay safe and good luck on your purchase!

    Mark
    • formerly known as "eguns-com"
    • M4Carbine required notice/disclaimer: I run eguns.com
    •eguns.com has not been actively promoted in a long time though I still do Dillon special
    orders, etc. and I have random left over inventory.
    •"eguns.com" domain name for sale (not the webstore). Serious enquiries only.

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •