Froglube

[Paladin801]

Out of curiosity, for those using FL, are you doing a complete parts strip for the initial cleaning before applying FL or would simply hosing the lower out with brake cleaner be ok? I have the paste version only and was planning to apply it to the lower internals by dropping on globs and then hitting it with a hair dryer for dispersion.

Not being a smart a$$, but read the directions. I even think there's a youtube video on using it. I took my BCG down completely and soaked all the small parts in alcohol to remove everything and went from there. I think you'll be satisfied with this method. I used a hair dryer too and when we had the hot sun here, I left the larger parts of my weapon out in the sun for about an hour after wiping everything good with alcohol. After this procedure, you'll be shocked at all of the crud you remove with FL while seasoning the metal. Good luck and enjoy it. It works for me.

[Dsm2nr]

delete

[markm]

Not being a smart a$$, but read the directions.

This is true...

The first time I tried it I was out shooting and couldn't remove the existing lube. I ended up with a goopy mess. I knew I didn't do it right, but needed a quick shot of lube at the shoot.

I'm interested to try it this time after wiping all the old lube out of the BCG.

[redhands]

Thanks for the replies. Isopropyl for the BCG and Jameson for me

[extrication]

Thanks for the replies. Isopropyl for the BCG and Jameson for me

I lost my FrogLube instructions. I'm following your plan.

[old grunt usmc]

what about using autozone brake cleaner to clean all metal parts?

[tb-av]

I'm guessing the iso-alcohol is recommended as it is the cheapest and most user friendly solvent that will get the job done. Acetone being towards the less user friendly end of the spectrum.

I think the only point is to use a solvent to get rid of all oil, grease, etc. before FL is applied.

[mildot]

I contacted Tactical Santa for a sample, but its looks like they didn't follow through. Anyone else have the same disappointment?

[Blankwaffe]

I'm guessing the iso-alcohol is recommended as it is the cheapest and most user friendly solvent that will get the job done. Acetone being towards the less user friendly end of the spectrum.

I think the only point is to use a solvent to get rid of all oil, grease, etc. before FL is applied.

The alcohol leaves no solvent residue to counteract the lubricant from seeking the surface or degredation of the lubricant itself.

Mil-comm has the very same recommendation to prep/clean with 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol for optimum results when first applying their products.They also recommed the use of alcohol to remove bore solvent residue after use.
Mil-comm has been criticized in the past by some who consider this step or prep as being anal. But hey,the owners of Mil-comm are Lubrication Engineers,and Engineers are somewhat anal by training....most times than not they have solid theory for the recommendations they make.

Its also easy to see that most petro solvents,and products like CLP will displace or break down other lubricants very effectively.In CLP's case it penetrates straight to the base metal driven by the ability to creep/penetrate,and wets the surfaces very effectively,which is why its so hard to degrease a weapon that has had CLP on it.Even when wiped dry,or degreased with brake cleaner etc. the CLP seems to continue to weep out of the surfaces,particularly when heated during use.Lots of folks think CLP dries out,but what looks dry "aint always dry."

So when changing to a different lube it may take a couple applications/uses before it can truely get a foothold even if the surface is cleaned as recommended.This is particularly true with heavier viscosity liquids,and particularly pastes or greases.Which is also why some recommend polishing the lubricants into/onto the metal.

[old grunt usmc]

The autozone brake cleaner leaves no residue.