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Thread: Froglube

  1. #601
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    I just started using Froglube paste on my handguns (both 1911s and polymer frame) , and seems to work great. I have my first AR on order, and will be using Froglube on it as soon as it arrives unless I read on this forum that AR shooters had a bad experience.

    One big plus of Froglube is that the garage doesnt smell bad after, clean up is really easy, and rags can be washed with other clothes. So far so good on the handguns.

    Yes, I couldnt help myself and had to taste it before its first use. Tastes like chicken.

  2. #602
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    Couple questions for those using it on AR's

    1. Do you pay attention, worry or care if the liquid gets into the gas tube when treating and cleaning the barrel? If yes how do you prevent it from getting in?
    2. Do you treat the buffer tube, buffer and spring?
    3. Do you treat all the trigger assembly components?

  3. #603
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    It's kinda like the little old lady in the Frank's Hot Sauce commercial says, "I put that shit on everything!"

    NRA RSO
    USPSA RO
    SASS RO-I & RO-II
    Certified Black Powder Artillery (Maryland)

  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by Locutus View Post
    It's kinda like the little old lady in the Frank's Hot Sauce commercial says, "I put that shit on everything!"

    How about question 1.?

  5. #605
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    I don't worry about it too much. I smear a little paste on the outside surfaces of the charging handle and nothing in the gas key, so the gas tube is basically free of lube.
    NRA RSO
    USPSA RO
    SASS RO-I & RO-II
    Certified Black Powder Artillery (Maryland)

  6. #606
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    A good rule of thumb is to smear it on everyplace you see the parkerizing or anodizing showing friction wear. Leave everything else either dry or only coat with the thinnest of layers.
    NRA RSO
    USPSA RO
    SASS RO-I & RO-II
    Certified Black Powder Artillery (Maryland)

  7. #607
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    Quote Originally Posted by unclerandy View Post
    How about question 1.?
    Don't worry about it. You can't get enough in there to get any adverse effects (unless, I guess, you take a caulking gun and press as much froglube paste as you can into the gas tube from the receiver end. But if you're willing to do that then there's other places you can stick that caulking gun...)

    As for question 2; I dab some paste on the spring just to get rid of the "sprooing" sound. Before froglube I used TW25B for the same effect.

    And question 3; I dab some froglube liquid on all the sear engagement surfaces. I also put a drop on the face of the hammer to minimize the friction between the hammer and the BCG.

    As to the BCG I treat all of it with the paste per the froglube directions, leaving a very thin coating on all surfaces. I also dab some extra paste on the exterior bearing surfaces of the bolt carrier. I add a few drops of liquid in the carrier key and on the gas rings. I also smear some on the cam pin during assembly. Works for me.
    Last edited by skullworks; 08-20-12 at 04:05.

  8. #608
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    Quote Originally Posted by unclerandy View Post
    1. Do you pay attention, worry or care if the liquid gets into the gas tube when treating and cleaning the barrel? If yes how do you prevent it from getting in?
    I don't use froglube in my barrel. I still have a bunch of CLP for cleaning carbon fouling. But no matter what you're using, I don't see how you'd get a bunch of the stuff in the gas tube. A drop or so might get in there if you turn the gun upside down while the bore is soaking, but that's about it.

    2. Do you treat the buffer tube, buffer and spring?
    Hell NO! Those parts should be bone dry. Froglube works good on parts that get warm. It starts flowing as the bolt group warms up.

    The action spring and buffer don't warm up. So in cool weather the froglube would just gel up... in hot weather it'll just pool and/or leak out the weep hole. Makes no sense to me.

    3. Do you treat all the trigger assembly components?
    Not really. Froglube will make it down to those parts with normal firing. I might put a little on the pins and stuff during assembly, but generally I ignore the lower.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  9. #609
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    OK I finally got to the range after all this time of being sick....I have to say frog lube is amazing. I have had the paste on the whole bolt carrier and bolt, took my new BCM rifle to the range and put 600 rounds through it and the froglube ran great. I did not need to relube at all during that time, it was still very very slick and wet at the end of the 2hrs and the made the new rifle run amazingly.

    Once I got home the Froglube had already turned back into a paste on the BCG and made cleanup super easy, all it required was a simple wipe down, by far the easiest clean up I have ever had on my rifle. Overall I am impressed with Frog Lube.

    ETA: it took about half a magazine to heat the paste into a liquid and it stayed a liquid for the 2hrs I was shooting, It took a 30 minute drive before it was paste on the BCG again.
    Last edited by sinlessorrow; 08-24-12 at 22:11.
    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    Colt builds War Horses, not show ponies.
    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    This is 2012. The world is going to end this December and people are still trying to debate the merits of piece of shit, cost cutting crap AR's. Really?

  10. #610
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    Quote Originally Posted by sinlessorrow View Post
    OK I finally got to the range after all this time of being sick....I have to say frog lube is amazing.

    ETA: it took about half a magazine to heat the paste into a liquid and it stayed a liquid for the 2hrs I was shooting, It took a 30 minute drive before it was paste on the BCG again.
    That makes me worried. Do you think there is damage or wear occurring before the product becomes liquid?

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