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Thread: # of Rounds to Trust a J-Frame

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark5pt56 View Post
    Make sure you shoot enough of your carry ammunition to be familiar with the recoil impulse as it throw people off a bit, sort of a shock to them.
    I actually thought the +p gold dots werent as bad as the 158g Magtech I was shooting.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raven Armament View Post
    Semi-autos: 1,000 rounds
    Revolvers: 500 rounds

    That's just my thing.
    same same, it's worked very well this way for me for years.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjacobs View Post
    I actually thought the +p gold dots werent as bad as the 158g Magtech I was shooting.
    No idea on the Magtech ammo, the GD's aren't bad though.
    GET IN YOUR BUBBLE!

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjacobs View Post
    I actually thought the +p gold dots werent as bad as the 158g Magtech I was shooting.
    Quote Originally Posted by mark5pt56 View Post
    No idea on the Magtech ammo, the GD's aren't bad though.
    The Speer 135gr GDHP +P isn't bad at all.
    2012 National Zumba Endurance Champion
    الدهون القاع الفتيات لك جعل العالم هزاز جولة الذهاب

  5. #25
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    They are ready to shoot as is. Shoot a box of ammo and see how it works . They are easy to take apart and inspect for wear. IMO J frames aren't IMO the guns you shoot 1000s of rounds through and I have an assortment of 5 frames and I enjoy them. A 158 gn through a steel J frame is not bad but through an Airweight is in my opinion can be a big owie. I like the non +p for fun shooting an the =p for defensive shooting.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by seb5 View Post
    If you can conceal a "J" you can also carry a speed strip or 2.
    A speed strip fits in the watch pocket of most jeans.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axcelea View Post
    Looking at getting a J-Frame myself currently I found one interesting tid-bit. As others have said, a stock revolver is often a lot more predictable then a semi so it usually doesn't require the larger parts testing but from what I picked up from S&W is to test your ammunition for sufficient crimping.

    This test more comes from the air weight 357 magnum arena with lower quality rounds but the test is to fully load then shoot all but one shot and inspect it for unseating as recoil can unseat rounds and becomes more an issue the lighter the gun and the higher the power.
    IMO a 357 cartridge in a snubbie is not needed at all. owie.
    Last edited by SteveS; 08-23-12 at 15:32.

  8. #28
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    This year I had my 1st J frame that had to go back to S&W. 640 Pro with tritium front and rear sights. I've shot J frames since the 1970s.
    At round count 77 you could not pull the trigger because the cylinder front was binding against the rear of the barrel.
    After it came back from S&W I fired 400+ rounds through it without cleaning with no issues. It has worked fine since.

  9. #29
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    With an airweight J-frame, reliability of the revolver itself is only part of the equation. Your ammo must also be reliable in that platform.

    The issue is that, under recoil, the bullets of the unfired rounds in the cylinder can "jump the crimp" and allow the bullets to migrate forward out of the cartridge case. If a bullet manages to protrude from the face of the cylinder, it can tie up the gun.

    Thus, check your ammo choice by firing several "cylinderfull minus one" strings, keeping the same unfired round in the cylinder. Afterward, check it to see if the bullet is migrating forward. If it isn't, you should be good to go.

    Rosco

  10. #30
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    couple hundred rounds of live fire should be good.

    which reminds me, i haven't shot mine since i got it back form smith with a new frame...

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