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Thread: Reloading .45 ACP (230 grain FMJ): What Else Do I Need?

  1. #1
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    Reloading .45 ACP (230 grain FMJ): What Else Do I Need?

    I'm just starting out reloading, and I'm hoping I can get some advice. I bought some equipment and supplies a while back but had to postpone things due to my work situation. Now I'm trying to get back at it.

    Here's what I have so far:

    * RCBS Model 505 Reloading Scale
    * Lee .45 ACP Carbide Dies #90513 (uses #13 shell holder)
    * Lee Class Turret Press (4 hole)
    * Hogdon Clays Powder (shows 5.2 grain for .45 ACP)
    * Magtech Large Pistol Primers #2-1/2
    * Montana Gold 230-grain FMJ Bullets

    I know I still need to get some more equipment and supplies, but I don't know what else I need. All I want to reload is basic 230-grain FMJ loads.

    Any and all help will be much appreciated!

  2. #2
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    While you are picking up the rest of your supplies, I'd get a reloading manual or 3. There is must have info in there that is really going to save you a lot of grief... maybe your hands and face as well. Dont know your situation and I'm not trying to preach, just sayin!

    Dial or digital calipers are a must for determining your OAL, so add those to the list. That is really going to play a role in how the round feeds in YOUR pistol and what kind of presure going to ned up with. I noticed you mentioned 5.2gr. of Clays. I know the front of the jug list that, but you're really going to want to work up all your loads. I shoot 4.0gr. of Clays behind 230. Clays is fast, soft and clean. But, if I want a "regular" 230 FMJ load, I love W231. I think its all relative to what you want.

    One can go on forever... There's a metric crap-ton of info out there, just go slow, be safe and have fun.

  3. #3
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    You are going to need some brass.
    Certified Glock Armorer

  4. #4
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    Some case prep tools like a primer pocket cleaner a tumbler at some point to clean up your brass. Also a hand primer is nice to have if you want to get away from the bench and prime. And as Atchcraft said a few current reloading manuals and calipers. Then read and ask questions and take your time reloading to make sure you make every step the same and safe.

  5. #5
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    Here is my set up for pistol. Granted I dont have to set dies everytime since i use a 550b but the basics are the same.

    Tumble brass
    Resize/prime
    Powder
    Seat bullet of choice (oal is important here and calipers are required)
    Crimp (taper or factory crimp die)
    I stick each case into a case gauge and then into bulk holding.

    You need caliper and a scale for tools. Books for load data and something to handle primers. The rest is mostly to make you load the same quality ammo faster.

    Before anyone yells about case inspection that is handled in the many times you handle the brass including using the final case gauge.

  6. #6
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    Agree with others, above, that dial calipers (or digital) are really worthwhile.

    Strongly suggest you obtain a taper crimp die and do that as a separate operation after seating bullets (do not crimp during the seating operation.)

    Now the ticklish part: setting up the taper crimp die.
    Ignore reloading manual specifications, as those are maximum dimensions. Instead, take two or three top-quality factory rounds and very carefully measure the outside diameter of the very end of the case mouths. Use the knife-edge part of the calipers to be sure you get the very end of the case mouth of the factory rounds. You should get 0.469" plus or minus .001.

    Then, carefully, gradually, adjust you crimping die--trial and correction--until your reloaded rounds have that measurement at the edge of the case mouth. Tighten the locking ring on the die, and you are done!

    If the crimp isn't enough, the rounds may jam by not feeding into the chamber. If the rounds are crimped too much, the gun may jam because the rounds go too far into the chamber (the .45 headspaces on the case mouth--same for 9mm and .40 S&W.)

    By the way, use the same method for determining overall cartridge length/seating depth. Take two or three factory FMJ 230 gr. rounds with the same bullet shape and measure those for overall length (much easier than measuring crimp on the case mouth.) Seat bullets to that overall length.

    Hope this helps a bit!
    That's the life of an outlaw...tough, ain't it.--Sam Elliot as Conagher

  7. #7
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    Thanks, everyone, for the advice.

    So it seems that, at a minimum, I still need:

    *Dial or digital calipers
    *Primer pocket cleaner
    *Tumbler
    *Current reloading manuals
    *Taper crimp die

    I’m guessing a chrono of some sort would be helpful too.

    (As for brass, I’m well set there thanks to years of shooting WWB value-packs.)

    Any advice on a particular type/brand of any of the above, and where to buy them, would help a lot.

    Thanks again.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whytep38 View Post
    ...
    * Hogdon Clays Powder (shows 5.2 grain for .45 ACP)
    Whoa! This is not correct and would likely produce a dangerous over-pressure load per my Hodgdon manual. Clays "can" be used for lower velocity 45 ACP with 230 gr FMJ bullets, but there are better choices, IMO.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by shootist~ View Post
    Whoa! This is not correct and would likely produce a dangerous over-pressure load per my Hodgdon manual. Clays "can" be used for lower velocity 45 ACP with 230 gr FMJ bullets, but there are better choices, IMO.
    Yep, that's what the sticker on the front says.

    I bought the stuff on the advice of an acquaintance, but I've since learned there are better choices. Still, it is what it is, I'm stuck with it, and while it's not the best, it will work. I hope.

  10. #10
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    Possibly you are referring to Universal Clays, a different powder than Clays.

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