New/First Build, waiting to start

[Falconman]

Hey everyone. I haven't posted here in a long time, But now I am getting ready to start my first AR build, so I wanted some input. I haven't gotten any of these parts yet, because I wanted some input on how everything would go together with the setup I'm looking at. So I'm going to post all the parts, and see what you guys think about it. This will be used for fun and close up work, as well as some long range shooting, and for coyote, raccoon, fox, squirrel, etc. hunting
From the top: and reason for the part

Aero precision matched receiver set-$170--------cheap, matched, can spend more money on more improtant parts
LaRue UDE kit (CTR stock, MOE grip, LaRue F.U.G. vert. grip)-$230-------has most of the parts I planned on getting, and in an awesome color
G+R LPK (Noveske QD plate, H? buffer, etc.)-$170---------------good parts kit and not too expensive
Geissele SSA/SSA-E trigger-$210---------------great trigger, best I can find for what I would use it for
Noveske 16" recon barrel-$570------------------great barrel, MOA accuracy, stainless, etc.
Vltor CASV-EL handguard-Black-$230--------------------moderately light, modular for what rails I would want
BCM bolt carrier group MPI, auto-$140-----------------------good bolt, good quality, fair price
Magpul MBUS backup sights-$100------------------------good sights until I get a more expensive scope
BCM gunfighter charging handle, med.-$50---------------------------best handle I can find and the latch would be useful


That's all I have so far, still looking at flash hiders and the smaller things. So to the questions:

What G+R buffer, H1, H2, H3, should be used with this setup?
Will all of this fit together well?
Are all of these parts decent at least?
What would be the accuracy of this setup, and how far would it be accurate to?
Are there any good flash hiding compensators out there?
which trigger, SSA or SSAE?

Any opinions/comments are appreciated.

Thanks.

[Pax]

The switchblock is a niche product used only by those who do a lot of shooting both suppressed and unsuppressed with the same upper. If you expect to do this, go at it. Otherwise... It really limits rail options, space, increases weight and system complexity and of course increases cost. It has its application, though few really need it.

Because this setup would use a switchblock, youd have no railed gasblock to mount your front MBUS on, and I wouldnt want you to even if you did have one AND the CASV might get in the way (I ran into this issue with Troys and a CASV-EL a couple years back). This means you'll have to run your MBUSs on the CASV's top rail which puts them not only ridiculously high above bore but also high enough to necessitate an unnaturally high cheek weld. In addition to this, because the rear MBUS would sit on the same rail as whatever glass you'd be using, it would require the glass to be mounted further forward unless you wanted a higher mount in addition to the CASV's already increased height over bore (more cheekweld issues) and then youd end up with eye relief issues. With experience with that particular system, I highly recommend you avoid the CASV-EL unless you are particularly set on it for some weird reason. Yes, it looks very unique and cool. It is an interesting and impressive design study. Works great on FALs as far as I can tell. But I see no place for it in a market where modular, tubular handguards that mount to barrel nuts only and not to the top rail are also available, (Samson Evolution, Troy TRX Extreme, Daniel Defense's new rail, etc.).

Other than that I'd take no issue with your setup. All decent parts as far as I'm concerned. Especially with that trigger, a good shooter with a 1/7 16" and proper ammo should be able to reach out to 600 yards with decent glass without issue. Possibly even further, though precision aint exactly my forte. Maybe if Trident drops by he could weigh in and provide more accurate info.

Good luck. Hopefully your BCM stuff will be in stock.

[Col_Crocs]

Im with Pax on the switchblock. I would also skip the CAS-V and opt for a 12in Centurion Arms C4 rail instead. Or, if you dont mind the cost, just get a Recon VIS upper from Noveske. That also already comes with a GUnfighter charging handle and The Blackout flash hider.
On your buffer, both the H and H2 will work. Between the 2, Im partial to the H2 having used it at some point on a midlength system and liked it. That said, the best route would be to get the Vltor A5 system. You dont have to buy the full EMOD kit, you can buy the tube and the buffer and spring set separately.
ETA: Here's a link to the VIS Recon Upper: http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin...status=&title=

[rob_s]

What is your level of experience with the AR FOW? How did you arrive at this list of parts and what made you choose them?

FWIW, typically "some close in work" and "some long range shooting" are, while not totally mutually exclusive, at odds with one another. It's the holy grail of every AR enthusiast to have the mythological "do everything" gun and it just never works out and you wind up sacrificing something at one end of the spectrum or the other.

[Dave L.]

This will be used for fun and close up work, as well as some long range shooting, and for coyote, raccoon, fox, squirrel, etc. hunting


Any opinions/comments are appreciated.

My opinion would be that your uses could justify 3 different AR's. To me it seems like you just listed a bunch of high-end products and that the extent of your knowledge ends at only knowing the parts are high-end. Example being the SwitchBlock, it's a waste of money for most people.

I would skip pretty much all that shit you listed and buy a complete LMT lower and a BCM upper with a 16" stainless recce barrel. You didn't mention high-volume shooting, so you might as well have an accurate gun.
There is no telling what your skill level is for long range shooting or how close is your "close up work".

Also, "true long range shooting" requires a different optic than a dedicated "close up work" optic. I doubt you are about to drop coin on a 1-8 CQBSS.

I'm not trying to be a dick, but I'm also not going to sit around and stroke you off because your expensive parts list.

[Falconman]

thanks everyone, and you're right, my AR knowledge isn't all that great. It goes as far as reading forums, looking at ar parts, and shooting my brother's AR. Dave, I am kinda against getting a complete upper and complete lower, because if I wanted a built gun, there are many other options, and I see an AR as a "built to fit you" gun, might just be ignorance on my part, though. And I'm not getting these because they're expensive, I'm getting them because they're good or I like them. Thats why I asked questions.


So here's what I'm getting:
Drop the switchblock, What is another good gas block/tube that is more reasonable?
Drop CASV for noveske upper W/VIS, (what are the benefits of the VIS 1 piece design?) , samson evolution (never heard of them, any good?) , daniel defense,etc.
So It's better to put a backup sight on a railed gas block?

I know, that last one may sound stupid, but This is my first build.

[rob_s]

I see an AR as a "built to fit you" gun

how do you know what "fits" you?

And I'm not getting these because they're expensive, I'm getting them because they're good or I like them.

good for what? like them based on what?


Look, if you're just into this to own a gun, and "build" it yourself, that's cool. But you have to tell us that up front. Most... many... shit SOME of the people on this site shoot. a lot. and what those people are interested in is acquiring skill and utilizing tools that will augment that skill. This ain't.... didn't used to be an Everest site ("because it's there..."). "not that there's anything wrong with that", but aesthetics, "because I want to", etc. are not... were not typically the driving forces behind the choices made by most... many... some of the members here.

[Falconman]

No, I don't want this just to own a gun. I already have guns. I'm not the kind of person that gets stuff just to say "mine's better than yours". If so the reciever would be different. I plan on going into the military in a few years, and I'm assuming some practice would help ( I know military rifles arn't as good). And I do plan on shooting this a lot, thats why I wanted input and asked questions. I don't get stuff based on aesthetics, but I don't want it to look like crap either. I estimate it will fit me by what I look for in a gun.

I didn't post this to get into an argument, either. I posted it because I heard you guys at M4C are the best ones to talk to about ARs, so I assumed you would be helpful and not be like some others that just say "you're just trying to brag about how good you're stuff is" just by looking at a unfinished parts list.
sorry if I sound like a dick, but I don't like arguing about a question post.


Is that any better rob?

[El Cid]

I didn't post this to get into an argument, either. I posted it because I heard you guys at M4C are the best ones to talk to about ARs, so I assumed you would be helpful and not be like some others that just say "you're just trying to brag about how good you're stuff is" just by looking at a unfinished parts list.
sorry if I sound like a dick, but I don't like arguing about a question post.

They are being helpful. They just aren't going to hold your hand while doing it. They will also save you money if you let them. I just did a quick math problem and you're already in the $2,000 range. That doesn't include an optic or the tools to assemble the rifle.

By listing the switchblock and not referencing a plan to shoot it with and w/o a can, you outed yourself a bit as wanting parts that are not not needed and it makes people think you either want "cool guy" parts or you left out key information about your background and how the rifle will be used.

Many of us have been down this road and learned the hard way. We typically have a bin of old parts to show for it. The best advice is what Rob used to have in his sig. Spend $1,000 on a Colt AR and the rest on ammo and a class.

Bottom line is that it's your money. Spend it however you desire, but the advice is based upon the shooter and the rifles intended mission. That's what they provided. I believe out shooting a guy next to you who has a "Gucci" carbine with your stock AR because you trained with it would be very satisfying. Kind of like watching a guy in a recent class who was wearing EVERY piece of kit and clothing Crye sells. He looked cool but couldn't hit the broad side of a barn from inside the barn. The best bbl or trigger won't help a shooter who doesn't have the fundamentals.

Good luck whatever you decide. When you build it, shoot the crap out of it.

[rob_s]

OP, since this thread hasn't gone the way you intended, I'm curious to know how you thought it was going to go? especially since you haven't really answered any of our questions.

you mentioned going into the military in a few years, what are you doing now?

I just did a quick math problem and you're already in the $2,000 range. That doesn't include an optic or the tools to assemble the rifle.

or the instruction on how to use it.


If you want to be a shooter dumping $3k into a first "build" isn't the way to go, unless you have another $2k for magazines, ammo, training, and practice. I did what you are thinking of doing, I went down that wrong path, and I wish someone had been around to smack some sense into me too.