Gemtech HALO: inconsistent POI shift; any other problems?

DreadPirateMoyer · #1 11-11-12, 18:45

Hi everyone,

I'm heavily considering the purchase of a Gemtech HALO. I love its overbuilt design, I love that it has wider apertures for avoiding baffle strikes (I understand this comes at the cost of less suppression), and I love that I can transfer it between my rifles while giving each rifle a different muzzle device better suited for its needs. Overall, I adore (the idea of) it.

However, I've read that it can create an inconsistent POI shift on rifles, meaning every time you attach it, the POI changes from the last time it was attached. That's a dealbreaker for me, if true. Is it true? And if so, are there ways to avoid it?

Additionally, are there any other problems with the HALO that I may not know of? I know it can sometimes carbon weld, but I feel that's not unique to the HALO and happens in other suppressors too.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

SteyrAUG · #2 11-11-12, 22:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by DreadPirateMoyer

However, I've read that it can create an inconsistent POI shift on rifles, meaning every time you attach it, the POI changes from the last time it was attached. That's a dealbreaker for me, if true. Is it true? And if so, are there ways to avoid it?

Additionally, are there any other problems with the HALO that I may not know of? I know it can sometimes carbon weld, but I feel that's not unique to the HALO and happens in other suppressors too.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Probably my favorite suppressor.

Now I don't claim to be a super sniper and I don't use a HALO on a rifle for a precision marksman role. But I have not noticed any POI shift at all quite honestly.

That said, I am pretty OCD so I tend to place the open area of the retaining collar at 12 o'clock every time.

I have not had a problem with a carbon weld, but I have noticed if I try and remove it when it is "toasty" it is very difficult (I'm assuming due to metal expansion). But if I let it cool I can remove it by hand without issue.

Dave_M · #3 11-12-12, 13:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteyrAUG

I have not had a problem with a carbon weld, but I have noticed if I try and remove it when it is "toasty" it is very difficult (I'm assuming due to metal expansion). But if I let it cool I can remove it by hand without issue.

I know when it's time to take a brass brush to the interior when it becomes harder to take off the rifle.

Yes, harder to take off when hot for the reasons you mentioned.

markm · #4 11-12-12, 13:40

Did he just use "overbuilt" and "Gemtec" in the same thread?

I remember when the HALO came out 40 or 50 years ago and seeing pics that SteyrAug posted back on BarfTard. I think those silencers were used in the civil war or Korea or some shit!

DreadPirateMoyer · #5 11-12-12, 13:43

If the 7.5x-thicker blast baffle stuff is to be believed, yes

SteyrAUG · #6 11-12-12, 13:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave_M

I know when it's time to take a brass brush to the interior when it becomes harder to take off the rifle.

Yes, harder to take off when hot for the reasons you mentioned.

I'm curious about something. I remove my suppressor every time I'm done shooting so I can more easily clean my rifle. And while I don't always do a full immersion clean of the suppressor I do clean out the rear mounting area.

Doesn't everyone do that?

markm · #7 11-12-12, 14:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteyrAUG

Doesn't everyone do that?

You'd be surprised. I know I do.... but I see these "stuck silencer" threads pop up from time to time...

Magic_Salad0892 · #8 11-12-12, 19:30

I thought everybody cleaned the mount too... Even on a semi-dedicated suppressed gun I still do it.

SteyrAUG · #9 11-12-12, 19:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by markm

You'd be surprised. I know I do.... but I see these "stuck silencer" threads pop up from time to time...

I guess so.

I've let my suppressor get so bad I can shake out the gravel (seems like broken clay) but I've never managed to actually get one stuck on a rifle.

I suppose the real question is if people are leaving them on, how are they cleaning their barrels? Are they really pushing all the barrel fouling and cleaner/lubricant into the suppressor?

bp7178 · #10 11-12-12, 22:18

Since there is an active Halo thread here, does anyone know if it (the current generation) will work with the extended A2 flash hiders provided they are mounted with shims or peel washers?

SteyrAUG · #11 11-12-12, 22:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by bp7178

Since there is an active Halo thread here, does anyone know if it (the current generation) will work with the extended A2 flash hiders provided they are mounted with shims or peel washers?

I don't know for a fact as all my HALOs are the older generation, but I thought that was the stated purpose of the second generation (current), to work with extended flash hiders like Predators.

The peel washer is simply to keep the flash hider level and true and prevent baffle strikes. Crush washers can cause flash hider tilt.

rushca01 · #12 11-12-12, 22:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by bp7178

Since there is an active Halo thread here, does anyone know if it (the current generation) will work with the extended A2 flash hiders provided they are mounted with shims or peel washers?

It's my understanding both old and new work with extended a2s etc. I have one just before they "lightened" them and it fits on extended a2s. I confirmed with gemtech and they said as long as you get several turns on the hider you are good, it just won't screw down as far as a standard length a2.

bp7178 · #13 11-12-12, 23:03

I keep looking at the Halo in the case of my LGS...I may have to get finger printed.

rushca01 · #14 11-12-12, 23:21

The only carbon welded halo that I have seen was on arfcom. Somebody posted pics of a halo that had thousands of rounds through it with ever being removed. IIRC they had to pull the barrel from the upper and then strap it down to get it off...if I also remember the baffle looked ok...

Back to the ops question, as long as you line the collar up near the same every time your poi shift should be repeatable. I wouldn't buy a halo to put a precision rig, I use mine on my 10.5 and 14.5 uppers.

SteyrAUG · #15 11-12-12, 23:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by rushca01

It's my understanding both old and new work with extended a2s etc. I have one just before they "lightened" them and it fits on extended a2s. I confirmed with gemtech and they said as long as you get several turns on the hider you are good, it just won't screw down as far as a standard length a2.

I know the older model installs on a HK 33/93 and I think that is longer than any A2.

I know they fit on my A2 HBar.

markm · #16 11-13-12, 07:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteyrAUG

I guess so.

I've let my suppressor get so bad I can shake out the gravel (seems like broken clay) but I've never managed to actually get one stuck on a rifle.

I suppose the real question is if people are leaving them on, how are they cleaning their barrels? Are they really pushing all the barrel fouling and cleaner/lubricant into the suppressor?

We have a whole new GEN of shooter who don't clean barrels.

Apricotshot · #17 11-13-12, 08:07

The 2010 models and up can use the Vortex FH. I time mine using the FH tines. Same POA/POI everytime, 100-300 yds confirmed. I also use a BC 2.0 and as long as the can stays centered at the same o'clock it maintains POA/POI. Recently went to a shoot and had AAC, YHM and OPS Inc 5.56 cans, couldn't tell a difference between any of them except for the OPS Inc (M4S can). My collar has never had a problem loosening or having to get it off after I needed it to. As always, YMMV.

rushca01 · #18 11-13-12, 08:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Apricotshot

The 2010 models and up can use the Vortex FH. I time mine using the FH tines. Same POA/POI everytime, 100-300 yds confirmed. I also use a BC 2.0 and as long as the can stays centered at the same o'clock it maintains POA/POI. Recently went to a shoot and had AAC, YHM and OPS Inc 5.56 cans, couldn't tell a difference between any of them except for the OPS Inc (M4S can). My collar has never had a problem loosening or having to get it off after I needed it to. As always, YMMV.

Forgot about the whole Vortex thing. My model DOES work with extended A2s but will NOT work with the Vortex...

DreadPirateMoyer · #19 11-13-12, 12:28

Speaking of the Vortex, anyone know the difference between the A3 and A2 as listed on Smith's website? http://www.smithenterprise.com/products06.05.html

Other than the obvious fluting, that is. Does the 10 degree pitch refer to the prongs (meaning they are not 15 degrees like a standard Vortex)? I've also read about some "super alloy" in the A3s, but that isn't listed anywhere. Finally, does anyone know if the flutes actually help with anything on the HALO?

I ask because I'm looking at pairing my potential HALO with the A3, should everything line up correctly.

Apricotshot · #20 11-13-12, 13:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by DreadPirateMoyer

Speaking of the Vortex, anyone know the difference between the A3 and A2 as listed on Smith's website? http://www.smithenterprise.com/products06.05.html

Other than the obvious fluting, that is. Does the 10 degree pitch refer to the prongs (meaning they are not 15 degrees like a standard Vortex)? I've also read about some "super alloy" in the A3s, but that isn't listed anywhere. Finally, does anyone know if the flutes actually help with anything on the HALO?

I ask because I'm looking at pairing my potential HALO with the A3, should everything line up correctly.

Not sure on the A2/A3 I'd call. But the tines allow you to clock the HALO and always have the same lock up.