Thanks! I didn't think there was much difference.
Markm,
I would think AlumaBlack would work ok too. That's what Gray Laser uses post marking.
Last edited by Sparky5019; 06-13-14 at 13:52.
"An opinion solicited does not equal one freely voiced," Al Swearengen, Deadwood 1877.
It's something that can distinguish a factory MG and a cheap conversion.
It's kind of like the finish under the gas block. Quality MFG's do it. In reality will it matter with performance? Ultimately, not really. It's just shoddy workmanship. Also, if you were a factory, you'd have all of your holes drilled from the beginning. So it wouldn't be a factor to re anodize one.
To me, if I was buying a $16,000-18,000 MG. I might get wrapped around the spokes with that issue. I'd be more concerned honestly about a Form 1'd conversion by some guy being machined properly.
Which may be a factor. However, a sample gun that you're going to convert and engrave yourself for fun. Not a post sample with a ton of value.
I'd say anodize if you desire, but like renegade said, rattle can or bluing pen would work great.
I was more curious to know if it was worth the effort of anodizing. And do you have to strip the whole lower and re-anodize from scratch, or can you just do the exposed surfaces, etc. I have a rough idea how anodizing works from some DIY thread I read on TOS a few years back... Just didn't know how it works on a finished receiver that's been modified since.
"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
I’m also a 07/02, from my understanding, you can also use the original manufactures marking, or are required to add yours as well?
https://www.atf.gov/firearms/docs/at...ter-7/download
I have not made anything, just pondering my options. I have been a 07 for a while, I just recently did my SOT. I thought it was messed up, because when I did a couple SBR’s before I got my 07, they had to be engraved. That was one of the reasons I did this because I like to buy and sell, figured I could make some $$ which I have, all transfers in Washington require a FFL now and there are none close to where I live, that will do it for less than 40.00. I charge 25.00, for people I don’t know and 20.00 for friends. I want to do some SBR’s and I figured a MK18 or M4 would’ve fun. Which actually brings my question, Where exactly are the exact requirements, are they the same as when I did my SBR’s? My business name, city and state, use the original serial number? File it on a Form 2, within 24 hours of manufacturing? On my SBR’s I did the engraving on the mag lip, is this still ok, or should I do it larger on the side of the lower? I also looked on Bowers site and did not see his jig for sale. I know I’m missing things but I’m in no huge rush, I do have a engraver that does the work per atf specs.
Thank you in advance.
Well this thread is almost 5 years old. Bowers sold subguns.com. He now has his own site, try this https://bowersgroup.com/product/ar15...heck-fixtures/
CFR regulations wrt markings:
https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text...-479/subpart-G
Thanks, that helps allot. I do have a couple more questions if you don’t mind, once the paperwork is sent in can you test it? Does the ATF send confirmation back? On the marking, either I missed it or it wasn’t there, location, and I can reuse the original manufacturers, model and serial correct, I just need to add my FFL company name, plus city, and state.
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