New Trijicon AccuPower 1-8x28

[jerrysimons]

Looks like a Hodge upper. Loving mine!

His Hodge blaster not quite the same as your space metal Hodge blaster bro(Mod 1 upper). I robbed my 16" Noveske Light Recce of its Kahles K16i SM2 to put on my 12.5" Hodge (mod 1) build. Looking at this trijicon 1-8 to replace it on the 16" light recce. I get the impresion it is on same level as the Primary Arms platinum 1-8.

[ScottsBad]

While I agree, I am an MK6 kind of guy. Rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. No disadvantage to having it.

If you absolutely need to see your reticle against a white wall on a blistering day with 2pm sun on it. Simply turn the reticle one notch, to off. Since you'd have to adjust the brightness to turn it UP, turning it OFF would not be a detriment. Maybe it might be a problem for a 3Gun kinda guy, but would it REALLY be a problem for the 99%. I guess its a good way to justify paying $1K more for an optic.

That said, I'm a lot like you, I'd rather have the extra brightness and not need it than not have it and need it. Problem is; Your talking about $1000 more, 2X less for brightness that will only be used occasionally. Weight is a problem though.

[C4IGrant]

So I have been using 1-4's and 1-6's going back to when the the US Optics and S&B's were the standard. I typically never used the illumination setting in daylight (as there was no speed difference at close range and not as accurate at distance). For me, the purpose of the illumination was to overcome a white light in CQB type distances.

I must be doing it wrong.....


C4

[ScottsBad]

Nice rifle and scope, but can someone please explain why the Geissele NON-QD mount is worth an extra $70-100 more than other proven mounts? Or is it just the coolness factor? I'm sure it is made well, but ???
.
Sorry, but that mount is, like, periscope tall. I think you could run your rear BUIS up under the scope.

I like my Kahles as I do not need or want the extra 2x of magnification and the extra weight of the Trijicon. *For me* and the distances I will be using the scope at (from close in to 300-400 yds), a 1-6x LPV is the sweet spot and the best compromise . If I were shooting past 400yds more of the time I would consider having more magnification than 6x, but I would also step up to a larger caliber AR, .308, etc. For me, a scopes usable reticle choices are somewhat limited my right eye's corrected vision, which is about 20/40, bummer, but I have to deal with it. IMHO, every optic you put on your rifle is a compromise in one area or another and what works best for one person may not be the best choice for the next person. Below is is a link to a review of the Kahles 16i . Here are a few Pics of the Kahles scope's front end cap wall thickness and the Geiselle 1.930" high mount, which I really really like. I believe they will at some point also offer the mount in 34mm tube size.

http://www.westernshooter.com/2014/0...m1-review.html

[ScottsBad]

So I have been using 1-4's and 1-6's going back to when the the US Optics and S&B's were the standard. I typically never used the illumination setting in daylight (as there was no speed difference at close range and not as accurate at distance). For me, the purpose of the illumination was to overcome a white light in CQB type distances.

I must be doing it wrong.....


C4

With a bold reticle like a FFP segmented circle dot where there is a lot of etched area I seem to be able to find enough reticle to make close shots without illumination, but I think it depends on the reticle. I haven't tried the this Trijicon yet, but i'd think it would work OK. I only use my NF scope illumination for low light where I have trouble finding the reticle against a dark background.

I can see a daylight bright reticle being useful for fast CQB shots, but an Aimpoint is superior and I don't compete (unfortunately), so daylight bright reticles are not something I need.

[SiGfever]

A question a little off topic, I apologize. For those of you that own one is the non-Zero stop FC-3G model of the NXS 1-4x24 a deal breaker ?

[WS6]

If you absolutely need to see your reticle against a white wall on a blistering day with 2pm sun on it. Simply turn the reticle one notch, to off. Since you'd have to adjust the brightness to turn it UP, turning it OFF would not be a detriment. Maybe it might be a problem for a 3Gun kinda guy, but would it REALLY be a problem for the 99%. I guess its a good way to justify paying $1K more for an optic.

That said, I'm a lot like you, I'd rather have the extra brightness and not need it than not have it and need it. Problem is; Your talking about $1000 more, 2X less for brightness that will only be used occasionally. Weight is a problem though.

Weight, durability, proven track record, optical performance (maybe, I don't know, but my VCOG was shit.)...it's more than just "oh! it's brighter." that keeps me in a MK6 instead of the Trijicon.

[WS6]

A question a little off topic, I apologize. For those of you that own one is the non-Zero stop FC-3G model of the NXS 1-4x24 a deal breaker ?

Jack Leuba loves his, although he might have the ZS? I don't know. He holds instead of dials, last I asked, when using an optic like that, so I am guessing his might not be ZS?

[WS6]

Nice rifle and scope, but can someone please explain why the Geissele NON-QD mount is worth an extra $70-100 more than other proven mounts? Or is it just the coolness factor? I'm sure it is made well, but ???
.
Sorry, but that mount is, like, periscope tall. I think you could run your rear BUIS up under the scope.

It's light, and it's very structurally sound.

That, and the one pictured is a 1.93" mount. Some people LOVE THEM, and some people think they are clown-shoes. Take your pick, but not a lot of 1.93's exist to choose from compared to 1.4-1.5's, so that may have narrowed the field for that poster.


The argument FOR this arrangement is that it places the optic higher, which allows the head to be oriented more vertical, which is how we are made to see the world.

The argument AGAINST is that it arose from NODS usage (a very specific application), and a few people pushed it like the Roland Special, and it's stupid and prevents a proper and repeatable cheek-weld on the gun, which can reduce control of the weapon, speed getting on the gun, stability for a long range shot, etc.

[WS6]

So I have been using 1-4's and 1-6's going back to when the the US Optics and S&B's were the standard. I typically never used the illumination setting in daylight (as there was no speed difference at close range and not as accurate at distance). For me, the purpose of the illumination was to overcome a white light in CQB type distances.

I must be doing it wrong.....


C4

So, how did you use that S&B 1.1-4 SD during the daytime without illumination back when "it was the standard"? For those who don't know, here is the reticle on 1x without illumination:

(handily posted by you a while back, actually!)


Basically, I think your post defines daylight bright illumination "as the standard" since you've been using LPV's...