KAC SR-15 E3 Mod 2 URX 4 removal

[capt46wfd]

As crazy as it my sound, I want to put a Hodge Defense Wedge Lock Rail on my SR-15 E3 Mod 2.

I've scoured the internet looking for the wrenches for the Mod 2 gas block retaining nut and the URX 4. Any help on where to source these wrenches would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

[ABNAK]

Good luck. I don't think Knight's sells them. As with anything from Knight's, the rail and wrench are proprietary. It would seem that they prefer one of their certified armorers (who there are only two of in the country IIRC) to work on their stuff. Guess it keeps folks from Bubba'ing things up and then blaming the product.

I thought I saw somewhere a few months back where someone made a wrench.

[scottryan]

As crazy as it my sound, I want to put a Hodge Defense Wedge Lock Rail on my SR-15 E3 Mod 2.

I've scoured the internet looking for the wrenches for the Mod 2 gas block retaining nut and the URX 4. Any help on where to source these wrenches would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

You are making a mistake.

[MSparks909]

As crazy as it my sound, I want to put a Hodge Defense Wedge Lock Rail on my SR-15 E3 Mod 2.

I've scoured the internet looking for the wrenches for the Mod 2 gas block retaining nut and the URX 4. Any help on where to source these wrenches would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Just curious...but what's the reasoning behind the swap? Coming from someone who owns a Mod 2, I think you would be making a mistake by swapping the rail but to each his own.

[Jwknutson17]

I have swapped a few. But the hodge won't fit. See the response I sent to another member below:

Ok, so I mic'ed up some measurements. The URX3.1 rail is about as close to making it fit as you can possibly get. I can flex the barrel in both upwards and downwards and make contact with the rail. same with side to side with the gas tube nut. IMO It has enough clearance to not ever be an issue, but any closer and I would be machining the inside of the rail for my piece of mind. The URX4 is actually .2 inches taller from inside of the handguard to the top notch cutout where the gas tube is, right under the 12 pic section.

The Wedgelock, if you look in the inside, had those drop down little humps under the pic rail (on the inside). So the usable space / opening is 1.51 ish on the wedgelock. You need 1.61 inches for it to even be possible. From the center of the muzzle/barrel, you MUST have one inch (1.000) of space to the top or Center of muzzle to the highest point inside the hand guard for the top of the gas block. From the center of the muzzle/barrel, underneath you need the remainder .6xx ish.

I know the .1 difference doesn't sound like a lot, but you will hit inside of the rail for 100% sure on the inside top.

[Jwknutson17]

Also,

See post # 2672 and 2678 of this thread here... https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...-ve-got/page90

[Jwknutson17]

I was previously a tech in the auto industry and have access to many different spanner type sockets. Keep in mind, you still have to modify one, or make one as I did. The gas block on a few was a bigger pain to get off then nut. You need to use a special puller tool for that also.

Long story short. Not worth it. If I didn't already have 5 urx4 Mlok railed uppers I sure as heck would not have gone down the road again to put a 3.1 rail on a mod2. Would have just grabbed a mod1 from the safe or another rifle with the wedgelock.

I asked back in December here... and all I got was crickets.. https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...-block-removal

[1911-A1]

I found two different metal airsoft Chinese clone wrenches for $20 each. I haven't tried them yet, but they seem sturdy.

[capt46wfd]

My reasoning stems from not having big mitts and having neurological problems that make a smaller diameter rail such as the NSR or DD MFR XS more comfortable. That being said, I just like the Hodge/ FN variation of the wedge lock.

I too feel that Mega missed the boat with the lightening cuts instead of just making the whole rail M-lok, but it's not a deal breaker. We've been using quad rails for years which are configured similarly to the wedge lock, with regard to useable rail space.

The Mod 2 gas block just didn't look that big, nestled in the cavernous URX4, but I guess it is. It won't work so the point is moot. However, I'd still like to disassemble the upper to Cerakote it as the finish had some scuffs from being displayed and handled when I bought it.

I know could send it to Ayan and it would be done first rate but I want to do a custom color and spending $500 on a paint job is hard to fathom when I've never paid anyone to work on anything for me. I've done all of my own smithing for 30 years and have never bubba'd anything up. I know the wrench for the rail is available as it comes with the rail; it's just a matter of finding one in stock.

[Kdubya]

Is this what you're wanting for the URX 4 removal? I'm not exactly familiar with the URX, but that looks to be the wrench that is included in the purchase of the rail.

As far as the wrench for the gas block, my google-fu wasn't able to turn up any leads.