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Thread: Glock Froglube vs FIREclean

  1. #71
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    Re: Glock Froglube vs FIREclean

    Quote Originally Posted by Littlelebowski View Post
    Reading is fundamental

    From the link:



    This is a test WS6 did.
    Thanks LL. I'll go back to read the description.

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
    Gotcha. Fireclean/Froglube prevents rust slightly better than spit. Clean appropriately. I've had Froglube rust stuff up overnight in the real world (shooting, not nails in the kitchen). Fireclean did worse than Froglube "in the kitchen". So be careful with it.
    I'm usually quick on the up-take but what does any of this mean? Is this comedy or does it mean FireClean/Frog Lube are only good as a lubricants but do not protect agaist corrosion?
    NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor
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  3. #73
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    I use Froglube carbon cutter to remove the anti-sieze lube in Glocks daily. It's great for that. Then a blast of gun scrubber to get the water out of the slide.

    If it weren't supplied at work, I wouldn't use it. Way overpriced for what it does IMO.
    I'm a lead farmer motherf**ker! - Kurt Lazarus

  4. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
    Gotcha. Fireclean/Froglube prevents rust slightly better than spit. Clean appropriately. I've had Froglube rust stuff up overnight in the real world (shooting, not nails in the kitchen). Fireclean did worse than Froglube "in the kitchen". So be careful with it.
    Same here with the Froglube. I live in the desert and had rust show up with Froglube. Combine that with the tedious application and i don't think its worth it to me.
    I paint spaceship parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Stippled Glocks are like used underwear; previous owner makes all the difference in value.

  5. #75
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    Not to hi jack the thread. But has any one here used Gunzilla?
    I have heard it works way better than Frog Lube or anything else on the market. I would like to see a comparison between Gunzilla and Fire Clean

  6. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamented View Post
    Not to hi jack the thread. But has any one here used Gunzilla?
    I have heard it works way better than Frog Lube or anything else on the market. I would like to see a comparison between Gunzilla and Fire Clean
    Gunzilla is good with clean up, but it is way too fluid and runs and burns off very fast to really care about it as a lubricant.

    I'm still a SL!P 2000 fan myself, especially the EWL.
    Last edited by VIP3R 237; 04-10-13 at 22:07.
    I paint spaceship parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Stippled Glocks are like used underwear; previous owner makes all the difference in value.

  7. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLCedeno View Post
    I'm usually quick on the up-take but what does any of this mean? Is this comedy or does it mean FireClean/Frog Lube are only good as a lubricants but do not protect agaist corrosion?
    It means I dumped froglube after my bolt-carrier both got rust on them after I switched to it. Since going to a different product, and maintaining things much less meticulously even, I have no more rust-speckles. When I tested FireClean vs. Froglube with saltwater, it did much worse than FL. I never ran it on a weapon to say, but if FL failed me, I can't imagine FC working.

    Short story?

    -Lubed the shit out of my Noveske with FL and left for Arkansas (I live in Louisiana) .
    -Went and shot 120 rounds of MK318 SOST suppressed in humid (but no rain) NW AR.
    -Drove from range to a friend's house where I took the rifle down, wiped everything with a microfiber cloth, leaving a wet "sheen" instead of the caking that was on the parts.
    -Set the rifle in a corner and went and had supper, hung out, etc.
    -Put the rifle back in the zip-up case and drive home the next morning.
    -Cleaned it that night. Orange rust speckles on the bolt tail. Removed them with rubbing and more FL. Dark stains remained. The Froglube felt like Elmer's glue a week later. Stripped it out with heat, alcohol, etc. and transitioned to another product and haven't looked back.
    Last edited by WS6; 04-10-13 at 22:13.

  8. #78
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    Something I have noticed with all lubricants/protectants is that they need to be clean and dry when the product is applied, otherwise they simply trap the contaminant under the product in contact with metal. Kinda like painting over rust.
    I wipe the parts clean with a good carbon cutter, hit it with some non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and chase with pressurized air and/or a heat gun, and then apply the product.
    I have left guns that were treated this way in wet pelican cases for days with no rust appearing on the treated parts. It seems that non-toxic/non-petroleum products need a little more prep-work for anti-corrosion.
    Jack Leuba
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    Knight's Armament Company
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  9. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Something I have noticed with all lubricants/protectants is that they need to be clean and dry when the product is applied, otherwise they simply trap the contaminant under the product in contact with metal. Kinda like painting over rust.
    I wipe the parts clean with a good carbon cutter, hit it with some non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and chase with pressurized air and/or a heat gun, and then apply the product.
    I have left guns that were treated this way in wet pelican cases for days with no rust appearing on the treated parts. It seems that non-toxic/non-petroleum products need a little more prep-work for anti-corrosion.
    Would chemical de-greasing with 91% ISA and then heating in an oven before applying count? That's what I did. Maybe I needed to chemically de-grease and re-heat immediately after shooting the weapon, too, instead of just wiping. Screw that. Give me my petro-products!

  10. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    and chase with pressurized air and/or a heat gun, and then apply the product.
    F2S, i think you hit upon a good point with the heat gun. My thoughts are that heating up the parts first may allow the pores to open up in the material to allow the product to penetrate better. At least it sounds good in my mind.
    I paint spaceship parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Stippled Glocks are like used underwear; previous owner makes all the difference in value.

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