Armorer's Kit, what's needed?

[hdrolling]

Nice. I would recommend an extended length starter and finishing roll pin punches for the bolt catch. You may find better than Wheeler's punches, but these two are quite nice for the price.

I cringe when I see the nitwits on youtube installing that pin with vice grips or channel locks...

Thanks, those do look nice.

But I already ordered the BROWNELLS - BOLT CATCH PIN PUNCH which is number nine in my list and the Fixxxer Hollow End Stainless Steel Starter Punch Set (#3 on the list) includes a 1/16" starter punch for the roll pin on a AR15 bolt catch release.

Is 1/16" the wrong size?

[Locutus]

Thanks, those do look nice.

But I already ordered the BROWNELLS - BOLT CATCH PIN PUNCH which is number nine in my list and the Fixxxer Hollow End Stainless Steel Starter Punch Set (#3 on the list) includes a 1/16" starter punch for the roll pin on a AR15 bolt catch release.

Is 1/16" the wrong size?

Damn, I missed that in your list. Sorry - I'm sure they'll work just fine.

[hdrolling]

Damn, I missed that in your list. Sorry - I'm sure they'll work just fine.

Okay, thanks. To be honest a lot of these tools look the same to me so I wasn't sure if I missed something in the wording on the title of the punch I bought. Thankfully most posters added links which made it fool proof to order even for an old Grunt like me.

[GallagherRayS]

I cringe when I see the nitwits on youtube installing that pin with vice grips or channel locks...

Why? For a first time builder it is way easier than doing it with punches. Before I knew they had specific punches for that task I was using standard ones, even with tape ended up scratching my receiver pretty good, got fed up and thought to use the channel locks, as long as the jaws are taped there isn't an issue.

If there is some evidence of this technique causing problems with the build, let me know because I have 4 personal rifles and 3 rifles of a friend done this way with no issues so far. Also, only one time did I scratch a receiver doing this, and that was an Anderson lower that I don't give a crap about so I didn't tape the jaws up, and even then it was tiny.

-Ray

[Locutus]

Why? For a first time builder it is way easier than doing it with punches. Before I knew they had specific punches for that task I was using standard ones, even with tape ended up scratching my receiver pretty good, got fed up and thought to use the channel locks, as long as the jaws are taped there isn't an issue.

If there is some evidence of this technique causing problems with the build, let me know because I have 4 personal rifles and 3 rifles of a friend done this way with no issues so far. Also, only one time did I scratch a receiver doing this, and that was an Anderson lower that I don't give a crap about so I didn't tape the jaws up, and even then it was tiny.

-Ray

Ray,

How can you say it's way easier when you've obviously never used the right tool? I guess it's a good thing that the one you did bugger up is the one you say you don't care about.

"The right tool for the right job" is a philosophy I've adhered to for nearly six decades and it has served me well. There's no excuse for marring an expensive rifle for lack of a $12 pair of punches.

[GallagherRayS]

Ray,

How can you say it's way easier when you've obviously never used the right tool? I guess it's a good thing that the one you did bugger up is the one you say you don't care about.

"The right tool for the right job" is a philosophy I've adhered to for nearly six decades and it has served me well. There's no excuse for marring an expensive rifle for lack of a $12 pair of punches.

True, which is why I use the reaction rod from geissele (on sale for $75 here BTW) for all on my upper work.

And I meant that it was easier than using standard punches, once I figured that one out I haven't looked back. Just learned about the bolt catch punches recently so I might pick up a pair just to try them.

All I'm trying to say is there is no reason to call me a nitwit when it obviously works and has no more danger of marring than the old standby. I recently saw a video, I want to say it was IV8888's, where they used a vise with hard rubber jaws to start that pin, if we want to talk safest route I'd say that one has the least likelihood of scratching the receiver. Insert phrase about cats and skinning here.

Edit: I'm not saying don't buy the punches, definitely buy the punches if you can, I just didn't know they existed when I was building.

[RobertTheTexan]

My first tool arrived, the Magpul wrench! Yeah I could have gone cheaper with something else, but I was able to get my PRS stock installed last night so I'm happy. Going to try the bottle opener later tonight, I'll update with my review on that.

So as per some recommendations here is what I also have on order, these are what I decided could be used by me now with my limited knowledge.

1)Magpul Wrench (already here)
2)Starrett S565WB Drive Pin Punch 8-Piece Set
3)Fixxxer Hollow End Stainless Steel Starter Punch Set
4)Aeroshell 33ms
5)Brownells MAGNA-TIP screwdriver Standard Set No. 1 w/ #81 Handle 24pc
6)BROWNELLS - 1" NYLON/BRASS HAMMER
7)BROWNELLS Roll Pin, Set 1/16 in, 1/8 in, 3/16 in, 3/32 in, 5/64 in
8)BROWNELLS - AR-15 PIVOT PIN DETENT INSTALLATION TOOL
9)BROWNELLS - BOLT CATCH PIN PUNCH
10)PlastiXrevolution AR15 Deluxe Upper & Lower Vise Block + Cleaning & Trigger Test

I have two triggers to install, my SSA-E and an SSA that I just ordered so I'll be able to try some of these tools pretty quickly.

I think for now this will be a good start and I'll be able to pick up the rest along the way as needed. And my Tax rebate is almost exhausted so I have enough for one more complete upper or maybe the be able to but the parts to start building an upper.
Attachment 45056

This should be the "tool box list" of any aspiring AR builder. Good job!!
And good job on your two AR's- the both loom really nice but I'm partial to your SPR with the monopod. Did you buy completed uppers for these two builds or did you assemble both upper and lower yourself?
I think most people will tell you buying a complete upper makes more sense and that you don't save any money by building out the upper yourself. You know that's a very valid point. The latter point I would debate depending on your build strategy and parts selection. The latter part is debatable depending on your approach. I really enjoy the process of the build. Today I shot my DMR (.308) for the first time. You know it's just an amazing feeling when you put a lot into the firearm, and you take it to the range for the first time. I may enjoy that feeling just a liiiiiiittle too much though. Lol. Either way you go, I'm sure you will put together a well built firearm and do it with the right tools for the job!

Looking at your "stable", the only thing missing is an SBR. Have you considered that?


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[Hart]

Don't forget to get a few extra detente pins, maybe springs too. When they fly, and they will regardless of tool, your stuck until your next order arrives.

Rarely are they ever recovered.

[Locutus]

True, which is why I use the reaction rod from geissele (on sale for $75 here BTW) for all on my upper work.

And I meant that it was easier than using standard punches, once I figured that one out I haven't looked back. Just learned about the bolt catch punches recently so I might pick up a pair just to try them.

All I'm trying to say is there is no reason to call me a nitwit when it obviously works and has no more danger of marring than the old standby. I recently saw a video, I want to say it was IV8888's, where they used a vise with hard rubber jaws to start that pin, if we want to talk safest route I'd say that one has the least likelihood of scratching the receiver. Insert phrase about cats and skinning here.

Edit: I'm not saying don't buy the punches, definitely buy the punches if you can, I just didn't know they existed when I was building.

Ray,

I wasn't pointing a finger at you, you outed yourself on that one. Seriously, it's one thing not to know about the right punches and it's quite another when these youtubers post "how to" videos and proceed to demonstrate that they don't know WTF they're talking about. Unless you're one of "them" then I was not talking about you.

I bought the Magpul BEV Block and it's OK, but I wish it fit more snugly into the barrel extension. My fear is that the sloppy fit will chew the locking lugs. It does also pin to the pivot pin hole, so maybe my fears are unfounded. Do you feel a bunch of play rotationally when you mount an upper on your Reaction Rod? (THAT sounded weird!)

[26 Inf]

Hey guys, I have the Brownell's bolt catch tool.

What I do is take a 3/32 roll pin holder and start the pin from the left. Then I install the bolt catch and use 3/32 pin punch inserted from the right as a slave pin to hold it in place.

This is a super-special punch available only from me. It is designed to fit only half way through the bolt catch. I normally sell them for 20.00 but I'll tell you have to make one because I'm a nice guy. Take your receiver and insert the 3/32 pin punch 1/2 way through the opening and use a sharpie to mark the shaft where it enters the bolt catch 'ear.' I've used the same punch as a slave on several installs without having to re-mark the shaft.

Install the bolt catch spring, plunger and catch, run it through until it touches the roll pin you've started and then back it out to the edge of your mark - this makes sure things are lined up.

At this point I use painter's tape to hold the slave pin in place, remove the receiver from the mag well block and place it with the receiver extension end of the receiver flat on the bench. I prefer to tap straight down when I can alter the work piece to do so. I tape the slave pin in place because I only have two hands and a small child is not always available.

Using the Brownell's tool and an 8oz ball pein I give the roll pin a firm tap, check alignment and then another. At that point the roll pin has usually displaced the slave pin slightly. In any event I check it and if it is holding the bolt catch I remove the slave pin and reinstall the receiver onto the mag well block.

I finish seating the roll pin using the smaller of these parallel jaws compound pliers with taped jaws: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Comp...iers/999957733 (I bought them on sale)

The reason I like using the pliers is because I can 'feel' whats going on. I sometimes hold the receiver at this point instead of replacing onto mag block.

After I have it seated as much as the pliers will allow, if needed, I remove the receiver from the mag block and reorient the receiver with the extension end down onto my bench, I use the Brownell's bolt catch tool to seat to proper depth.

This takes longer than just using the bolt catch tool, but I haven't marked a receiver at all doing a bolt catch install or replacement.

For replacements, use the Brownell's tool to drive the roll pin out just far enough so the bolt catch will come free. You'll know the proper depth if you mark the bolt catch punch first.