Need advice for weight distribution fix

[TerminalLance]

The current config of my AR has a 14.5" gov't profile barrel with a pin & welded BCM gunfighter comp on it. It also sports a Geissele MK1 10" rail with the older and heavier steel barrel nut. The rifle runs just fine as is, but the current weight distribution is front heavy, and I'm one of those guys who prefers a weight balance to the rear. I've got my optics mounted as far back as I can without sacrificing proper eye relief, and I have a UBR stock on there that definitely helped bring the weight back to the shoulder a bit. The only thing I have hanging on the front is a HSP WML, a small section of rail just big enough for adding some bipods when I want to, and my backup iron front sight. I've considered doing the following to lighten up the front a bit, and I wanted to reach out to some folks here that might be more experienced with builds that could tell me if it would help make the rifle a bit more balanced to the rear: (If you have some good knowledge on the numbers, let me know how many ounces I'd be shaving off forward of the mag well)

I'd be replacing the 14.5" gov't profile barrel with a 16" BCM ELW (fluted) barrel, replacing the old Geissele nut with the newer aluminum one he made, and probably switching to a BattleComp or AAC Blackout flash hider. I'd like to keep the Geissele MK1 10" rail I have as it fits my hands well and I've got no issues with it.

I wanted to go with a 16" barrel instead of the 14.5" just to give me more options for muzzle devices should I decide that I want to change it down the road, but will adding the extra 1.5" of barrel offset any weight shaving that I'd get from switching to a fluted pencil barrel? Also, will there be any accuracy losses? Anyone replaced the steel barrel but on a Geissele rail with the aluminum one, and if so how much of a difference was there?

[BufordTJustice]

If you want to keep your Geissele rail, you're pretty much on the right track.

You could also incorporate some V7 weapons lightweight parts like their lightweight mag catch, ejection port door, and port door hinge pin.

Also, what optic are you running?

[ScottsBad]

Still front heavy with a UBR stock? Wow. Changing the Geissele barrel nut to aluminum only saves an ounce or two IIRC. Besides the barrel nut is very close to the pivot point for a balanced rifle. You want to move the weight back from the muzzle or eliminate it, I think.

A Gov. barrel has more weight forward than some barrels, so a BCM ELW or BFH LW might help by moving or eliminating the forward weight.

If that doesn't do it for you, think about a lighter rail.

[TerminalLance]

I'm currently running a Trijicon TR24 on an ADM mount. I like my optic setup and really don't plan on changing that at all. I might consider changing the rail if it really came down to it I guess, but I'd rather not. I'd like to try swapping barrels first. I know the barrel nut would only shave a few ounces that are close to the pivot point, but changing rails might only save a few more ounces than that, and at a greatest price point, and I figured that losing a couple of ounces on the barrel nut might be a better compromise for the price point since I already like the rail.

Do you guys know if going with that 16" ELW-F barrel would shave weight even if it's replacing a shorter (14.5") gov't profile barrel?

[BufordTJustice]

I'm currently running a Trijicon TR24 on an ADM mount. I like my optic setup and really don't plan on changing that at all. I might consider changing the rail if it really came down to it I guess, but I'd rather not. I'd like to try swapping barrels first. I know the barrel nut would only shave a few ounces that are close to the pivot point, but changing rails might only save a few more ounces than that, and at a greatest price point, and I figured that losing a couple of ounces on the barrel nut might be a better compromise for the price point since I already like the rail.

Do you guys know if going with that 16" ELW-F barrel would shave weight even if it's replacing a shorter (14.5") gov't profile barrel?

A 16 inch ELW-F with a V7 titanium flash hider would feel MUCH lighter than your current setup.

Also, the pivot point when you're using the gun is your SHOULDER.

Lightening anything forward of that will help. The further forward you go, the less weight you have to remove to make a big difference.

[TerminalLance]

A 16 inch ELW-F with a V7 titanium flash hider would feel MUCH lighter than your current setup.

Also, the pivot point when you're using the gun is your SHOULDER.

Lightening anything forward of that will help. The further forward you go, the less weight you have to remove to make a big difference.

Hmm, never heard of V7 until you mentioned them. Now I'm looking at their titanium gas block and flash hider. That could shave another couple of ounces.

[ScottsBad]

A 16 inch ELW-F with a V7 titanium flash hider would feel MUCH lighter than your current setup.

Also, the pivot point when you're using the gun is your SHOULDER.

Lightening anything forward of that will help. The further forward you go, the less weight you have to remove to make a big difference.

OK, the shoulder is the pivot point, but most folks I know think of a rifle as front heavy when the rifle is significantly heavier forward of the receiver. So yes, the shoulder is the pivot point, but I think of the receiver as the pivot point from my layman's point of view. I like my rifles to be as light from the magwell forward as possible.

I use a TR24 with a Bobro extended mount on one rifle, I've had it for three years and I like it.

BTW - It might be cheaper to sell the G rail and get a lighter one than to buy V7 parts to save weight. JMHO

Good luck

[MistWolf]

...my AR has a 14.5" gov't profile barrel with a pin & welded BCM gunfighter comp...Geissele MK1 10" rail and steel barrel nut...weight distribution is front heavy (with) an UBR stock...

The weight the UBR stock is adding negates any advantage gained in shifting the CG aft. The UBR is 1.5 lbs, not counting the RE. The CTR weighs .5 lbs. But just how much does the UBR shift the CG? In reality, not much.

CG with CTR stock fully extended-


CG with UBR stock fully open-


The UBR changes the CG by only about an inch and a half but the carbine is now a full pound heavier.



My carbine feels livelier with the lighter CTR stock although it's CG is closer to the muzzle. When the UBR is installed, the carbine feels dead in comparison. I don't think your issue is one of balance. I think it's the extra weight of the UBR

[Warg]

I'd avoid the expensive titanium upper and lower bits from V7 and focus on the HG and barrel. A 13" KMR is approximately 4.6 oz lighter than the MK1 and the 10" KMR will drop 6 oz. A lightweight barrel such as the BCM ELW in 14.5" length will save approx two ounces over a USGI profile barrel and a 16" ELW will be roughty the same weight as your 14.5". However, the 16" ELW will be very light at the muzzle and you could use the lighter BCM's Mod 0 at 1.7 oz (versus Mod 1 at 2.7 oz).

The AAC FH is over 4 oz.

Edited-MistWolf's explanation re: the UBR & balance was more comprehensive than mine.

[TerminalLance]

I'd avoid the expensive titanium upper and lower bits from V7 and focus on the HG and barrel. A 13" KMR is approximately 4.6 oz lighter than the MK1 and the 10" KMR will drop 6 oz. A lightweight barrel such as the BCM ELW in 14.5" length will save approx two ounces over a USGI profile barrel and a 16" ELW will be roughty the same weight as your 14.5". However, the 16" ELW will be very light at the muzzle and you could use the lighter BCM's Mod 0 at 1.7 oz (versus Mod 1 at 2.7 oz).

The AAC FH is over 4 oz.

Edited-MistWolf's explanation re: the UBR & balance was more comprehensive than mine.

Thanks for these numbers, definitely helps. I might consider switching over to the KMR 10 along with the ELW-F barrel. That's probably gonna be my best bet. I'll just have to stow away some scratch for a few more paychecks is all.