Loose barrel extension

[556Cliff]

Absolutely. And I do not wrench for a living, but I am far from a novice with torquing to spec with all sorts of materials and fasteners, to include the relatively delicate carbon fiber - with that said, I doubt that I was cranking on it with more than ~100 lbs, but that is an estimation with nothing to back it up.

Might I ask, what would be better tools for the job? I am not afraid of expanding the tool chest, and certainly dont want to break things moving forward either. And thanks for any suggestions, tips, and criticism. I appreciate anyone taking the time to help, even if the end result is I was an idiot.

I'm in full agreement with GH41...

As for what the correct tool is for this particular situation, I would say barrel blocks for sure.

http://www.btibrands.com/product/uni...-barrel-clamp/

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod12799.aspx

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod12470.aspx

[el_chupo_]

The Reaction Rod was made specifically for these types of install/removals, I thought...

I will certainly be getting a better barrel block setup than what I have, but I would have started with that if I thought the Reaction rod was lacking. Can I get some details behind that train of thought?

[Inkslinger]

The Reaction Rod was made specifically for these types of install/removals, I thought...

I will certainly be getting a better barrel block setup than what I have, but I would have started with that if I thought the Reaction rod was lacking. Can I get some details behind that train of thought?

The way I understood it, with the reaction rod, torque on the end of the barrel is transferred to the barrel extension. The longer the barrel the more torque on the extension.

[el_chupo_]

The way I understood it, with the reaction rod, torque on the end of the barrel is transferred to the barrel extension. The longer the barrel the more torque on the extension.

Correct, that is how they advertise it:

https://geissele.com/reaction-rod.html

The AR15/M4 Reaction Rod makes the removal and installation of barrels, flash hiders, gas blocks and hand guards much easier and simpler. The Reaction Rod is designed to be gripped in a bench vise so that the rod is either horizontal or vertical. The upper receiver is then slid onto the rod and the rod’s integral splines enter the barrel extension and secure the barrel extension from turning. This allows all the torque from barrel nut wrenches to go directly into the barrel extension. In contrast, receiver vise blocks transmit the turning force into the aluminum receiver, a good part of which passes through the small, easily distorted receiver index pin. With the Geissele Reaction Rod, marring of an upper receiver’s finish by gripping and twisting inside vise blocks is eliminated and so is the need to remove sights and mounts from the receiver’s M1913 rail.

I guess the short version is I should have realized it was too much torque needed, and swapped to a different method...

[Leonidas24]

Rocksett is nasty stuff if your two threaded surfaces are perfectly degreased. Water is the only way to loosen it as it is water soluble and ridiculously tolerant to heat. If you dont want to let it sit in water for 24-48 hrs to let the water penetrate the threads try heating and quenching the muzzle device 3 or 4 times then trying to torque it off. The steam should get into the threads and loosen the rocksett.

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[Ned Christiansen]

I was hoping somebody else would mention this so I wouldn't have to be all crass and capitalistic....

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...ighlight=Rench

You (we, all of us) need to be torqueing directly against the barrel, not feeding the torque into the barrel / barrel extension joint or beyond.

Barrel blocks work but much of the time you'd have to take off the fore end.

[P2000]

The way I understood it, with the reaction rod, torque on the end of the barrel is transferred to the barrel extension. The longer the barrel the more torque on the extension.

Barrel length does not change the rotational torque.

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[Inkslinger]

Barrel length does not change the rotational torque.

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I may be misunderstanding the concept, maybe its leverage. Example would be, being able to break a screw loose with a long screwdriver but not a short one?

ETA: the barrel would be the extension of the wrench, the barrel extension would be the nut.

"The following formula has been used:

M1 = M2 x L1 / L2
Where:

M1 is the torque setting of the wrench.
M2 is the actual torque applied to the nut
L1 is the normal length of the wrench
L2 is the extended length of the wrench"
http://www.norbar.com/en-gb/Home/Tor...ion-Calculator

[P2000]

I may be misunderstanding the concept, maybe its leverage. Example would be, being able to break a screw loose with a long screwdriver but not a short one?

Leverage is different. A leverage example would be closing a door by pushing on the handle vs pushing on the door near the hinges.

The length of a screwdriver shaft does not change the amount of torque. It may place your body in a better position of strength, but all things being equal would not give more torque.

I'd use a reaction rod for install or removal of a muzzle device...Unless it had any kind of thread locker on it or felt too tight. And I would not use a breaker bar with the reaction rod. If it felt too tight, clamping the barrel is the only way I would use. Ned's barrel block looks great. I made my own crappier improvised version out of wood, but it requires lots more exposed barrel to grab vs Ned's design.

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[Inkslinger]

Leverage is different. A leverage example would be closing a door by pushing on the handle vs pushing on the door near the hinges.

The length of a screwdriver shaft does not change the amount of torque. It may place your body in a better position of strength, but all things being equal would not give more torque.

I'd use a reaction rod for install or removal of a muzzle device...Unless it had any kind of thread locker on it or felt too tight. And I would not use a breaker bar with the reaction rod. If it felt too tight, clamping the barrel is the only way I would use. Ned's barrel block looks great. I made my own crappier improvised version out of wood, but it requires lots more exposed barrel to grab vs Ned's design.

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What causes the extension to come unscrewed in this situation? Leverage? Please don't interpret this as argumentative, I'm curious.