Made a whoopsie with my Trigger Guard Pins.

philipeggo · #1 08-20-11, 14:08

So to make a long story short , i installed the pins that hold my trigger guard in place in the wrong holes. So the spring loaded one is where the solid pin should be. Totally a stupid mistake i made as it was my first lower build. Any ideas on how to fix it ? I figure if i get one out the other should come out as well. I don't care if the pins get destroyed in the process since im ordering a new trigger guard anyways . Any help would be great.

BCmJUnKie · #2 08-20-11, 14:32

Make sure you support the "tabs" on the reciever or you'll really be up shit creek.

Use drift pins and go S-L-O-W.

Just tap it in, tap it in, give a nice tap tap tap-a-roo

philipeggo · #3 08-20-11, 14:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by BCmJUnKie

Make sure you support the "tabs" on the reciever or you'll really be up shit creek.

Use drift pins and go S-L-O-W.

Just tap it in, tap it in, give a nice tap tap tap-a-roo

Tabs ? So basically just tap out the spring loaded pin and then the other one should fall out ? Its a PSA lower and hole where the solid pin is doesn't go all the way through . AKA the hole is only on one side of the receiver not the other .

BCmJUnKie · #4 08-20-11, 14:56

I was under the impression you had both pins in, thats what I get for assuming. Any chance you could post pics?

I have never put that in backwards, is it stuck in there? Pics please

philipeggo · #5 08-20-11, 15:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by BCmJUnKie

I was under the impression you had both pins in, thats what I get for assuming. Any chance you could post pics?

I have never put that in backwards, is it stuck in there? Pics please

Ill try and post pics but to clarify yes both pins are in and the trigger guard is also installed. Hence my problem the pins are in the wrong holes .

nimdabew · #6 08-20-11, 16:01

So the roll pin is on the front so the right side of the pin is sticking out slightly right? Sounds like a perfect excuse to use a dremel to cut off the old trigger guard and then buy a Magpul enhanced trigger guard to me.

philipeggo · #7 08-20-11, 16:08

Exactly and its bothering the shit out of me . I want to change the trigger guard , but if i just cut it off wont i be stuck with the same problem i have now ? If thats the case i may as well leave it as is.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nimdabew

So the roll pin is on the front so the right side of the pin is sticking out slightly right? Sounds like a perfect excuse to use a dremel to cut off the old trigger guard and then buy a Magpul enhanced trigger guard to me.

nimdabew · #8 08-20-11, 16:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by philipeggo

Exactly and its bothering the shit out of me . I want to change the trigger guard , but if i just cut it off wont i be stuck with the same problem i have now ? If thats the case i may as well leave it as is.

I did this with the third lower that I assembled and I just upgraded after I cut the old trigger guard and roll pin. Cut the old trigger guard so ont a small nub (with the roll pin) is left, and then cut the roll pin and trigger guard in half so you can take a pair of pliers and work the roll pin out further. Be careful to not break the ear off the lower that the roll pin is on, and just go slow.

Another way to do that is get to the point where you use a pair of pliers to work the roll pin out, and just crimp it with the pliers until you can just pull it out with your fingers. Didn't think of that until just now.

You would need to buy a new trigger guard and a new roll pin, and at that point, you might as well upgrade to something nicer than a stock trigger guard.

philipeggo · #9 08-20-11, 19:04

Pardon my ignorance but the first part i dont understand . How can i cut it into a small nub and then in half? Could i just not cut it in half and the yank out the two halves pins and all ?

Side note , this is why from now on im ordering my lowers already assembled . I Hate all these little pins.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nimdabew

I did this with the third lower that I assembled and I just upgraded after I cut the old trigger guard and roll pin. Cut the old trigger guard so ont a small nub (with the roll pin) is left, and then cut the roll pin and trigger guard in half so you can take a pair of pliers and work the roll pin out further. Be careful to not break the ear off the lower that the roll pin is on, and just go slow.

Another way to do that is get to the point where you use a pair of pliers to work the roll pin out, and just crimp it with the pliers until you can just pull it out with your fingers. Didn't think of that until just now.

You would need to buy a new trigger guard and a new roll pin, and at that point, you might as well upgrade to something nicer than a stock trigger guard.

DirectDrive · #10 08-20-11, 23:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by philipeggo

Tabs ?

Might as well order up the Stark grip now.

J/K

Some pics would be helpful.
Go to Image Shack, upload the pic, then copy and paste the "forum code" specific to that pic here in your thread.

BCmJUnKie · #11 08-21-11, 01:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirectDrive

Might as well order up the Stark grip now.

J/K

Some pics would be helpful.
Go to Image Shack, upload the pic, then copy and paste the "forum code" specific to that pic here in your thread.

Stark grip!?!?! NOOOOOOO!!!!

Lol

OP Pics are really gonna help us out in helping you, everyone is doing the best we can but we need PICS!!

Mr. Biggles · #12 08-21-11, 05:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by nimdabew

Cut the old trigger guard so ont a small nub (with the roll pin) is left, and then cut the roll pin and trigger guard in half so you can take a pair of pliers and work the roll pin out further. Be careful to not break the ear off the lower that the roll pin is on, and just go slow.

You might as well upgrade to something nicer than a stock trigger guard.

+1.

Cut the old trigger guard in half (cutting through the roll pin) and use a pair of pliers (Needle nose?) to pull the cut roll pin out of the hole. Doing this of course, while paying caution to the ears on the lower, as well as the finish.

Hope everything works out well for you.

Quiet-Matt · #13 08-21-11, 08:13

I'm understanding that you have the stock trigger guard installed backwards. So the roll pin has been driven into the hole in the front where the spring detent is supposed to go. Problem is that there is no hole on the other side to access the pin and knock it back out.

I recommend cutting the trigger guard with a dremmel tool in two cuts (pictured below). Make them in this order to maintain stability of the trigger guard till cut 2 is done. While making cut 1, when you are halfway through the piece you can rotate the trigger guard into the mag well and finish the cut from the other side. Once these cuts are completed you can remove all but the small portion that is held by the roll pin in the detent hole. That much will then have clearance to be driven on through the hole and removed. Go easy with the tapping, this area isn't as delicate as the rear tabs but still easily broken.

nimdabew · #14 08-21-11, 13:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quiet-Matt

I'm understanding that you have the stock trigger guard installed backwards. So the roll pin has been driven into the hole in the front where the spring detent is supposed to go. Problem is that there is no hole on the other side to access the pin and knock it back out.

I recommend cutting the trigger guard with a dremmel tool in two cuts (pictured below). Make them in this order to maintain stability of the trigger guard till cut 2 is done. While making cut 1, when you are halfway through the piece you can rotate the trigger guard into the mag well and finish the cut from the other side. Once these cuts are completed you can remove all but the small portion that is held by the roll pin in the detent hole. That much will then have clearance to be driven on through the hole and removed. Go easy with the tapping, this area isn't as delicate as the rear tabs but still easily broken.

This is what I meant.

Quiet-Matt · #15 08-21-11, 13:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by nimdabew

This is what I meant.

Ahh, I see that now. Great minds think alike

philipeggo · #16 08-21-11, 16:41

You nailed it on the head ! after reading the suggestions i looked at my rifle and said wait a second , " if i just cut this in half twice i should be able to get pliers out and take out that front pin and then knock the remaining pin out with a punch" Thankfully i work at a hardware store so i have access to everything i need . Thanks again guys , glad to hear im not the only guy who has ever done this before . Now if someone could help me find a decent light mount for my CAR handguards that puts a light at some where around my 8 oclock that would be super.

ps any idea what size punch to use ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quiet-Matt

I'm understanding that you have the stock trigger guard installed backwards. So the roll pin has been driven into the hole in the front where the spring detent is supposed to go. Problem is that there is no hole on the other side to access the pin and knock it back out.

I recommend cutting the trigger guard with a dremmel tool in two cuts (pictured below). Make them in this order to maintain stability of the trigger guard till cut 2 is done. While making cut 1, when you are halfway through the piece you can rotate the trigger guard into the mag well and finish the cut from the other side. Once these cuts are completed you can remove all but the small portion that is held by the roll pin in the detent hole. That much will then have clearance to be driven on through the hole and removed. Go easy with the tapping, this area isn't as delicate as the rear tabs but still easily broken.

GTifosi · #17 08-21-11, 16:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by philipeggo

ps any idea what size punch to use ?

The rollpin is 1/8", so that or the next size down should be fine.

Quiet-Matt · #18 08-21-11, 18:39

3/32" punch works good.

ar15556 · #19 08-21-11, 19:41

They mean to support the tabs/ears where the trigger guard pins go through, so you don't break them off of the lower.
Support the lower on a block of wood, or plastic before pounding and go gently.

nimdabew · #20 08-22-11, 11:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by philipeggo

Side note , this is why from now on im ordering my lowers already assembled . I Hate all these little pins.

You will never make this mistake again because it is a pain in the ass. A lower plus all associated parts can be had for 250 if you do your shopping correctly. The cheapest decent lower + LPK + Buffer/stock i would buy is around 350. 100 dollars is worth it for me at least.