View Full Version : LCP and LC9 report
Both pistols have performed well. I have fired 1000 rds of assorted factory ammo through the LCP with zero malfunctions. I have fired 1200 assorted rds of factory ammo through the LC9 with one malfunction, which was a failure to extract. Because the case was tarnished and difficult to remove from the chamber, I concluded that the failure was ammo related.
The LCP has a BT guide rod with a 13 lb Wolffe spring recoil spring set. The LC9 is unmodified. Both are accurate. The LCP's design is simpler: no loaded chamber indicator, manual safety, or slide lock-back feature upon firing last round. If my results are typical, then I would suggest that the LCP would serve as a good BUP weapon for the cop who wanted a .380. Although I like the LC9, I think it may be a tad too complicated with safety features to be a good BUP piece. I think that Ruger missed the boat when they did not make the LC9 in the image of the LCP .380.
I just bought an LC9 today. Did you notice if the inside of the slide was discolored like it had rust on it? Mine is and I really hope that it is some kind of grease.
I did not notice such, but your description sounds like Ruger's preservative coating.
I had more time to clean it and the brown stuff dissolved with clp I shot it a little and it is a great gun.
I got my wife one of the LC9's and she loves it. Fits her hand better then my XD does. I had seen the same goop on my wifes and promtly cleaned it and frog lubed it real good. She has shot over 1200 rounds since we got it back in Febuary . I really don't like the round indicator and plan on making a different one for it that's not as tall, kinda like the size of my XD's. I did clean it after 600 rounds and it was real easy to clean. Refrogged it and it was good to go.
Any particular reason you opted for the LC9 over other single stack 9s (Kahr, Beretta, Walther, etc)? Not judging, just curious.
Any particular reason you opted for the LC9 over other single stack 9s (Kahr, Beretta, Walther, etc)? Not judging, just curious.
For me and my wife it was due to her hand size and this handgun fit better then the others. We rented handguns in Portland a few times till she settled for this one. This is her first handgun and I wanted to make sure it fit her good so she would want to shoot it. Now I keep hearing "When are we going shooting again?". Gotta love a women that likes the smell of gun powder. Especially since I get to shoot mine without interuptions now.
I like my LCP.. I can shoot it well and it's a good pocket pistol.. Ron
I bought the LC9 to test and evaluate it to satisfy the curiosity of a most enthusiastic handgunner. I like it and will keep this pistol.
I owned and shot the entire Kahr 9mm series and do not fault them, but for some reason I didn't shoot the polymer versions as well as other pistols. Also I had an occasional stoppage which I couldn't accept.
The LCP has a BT guide rod with a 13 lb Wolffe spring recoil spring set.
my father just got a LCP (sn 374-25xxx)... is that a required upgrade for some reason?
TIA
No. Both are optional. Google BT Guide Rods. The heavier Wolffe springs reduce felt recoil and insure that slide goes into battery without fail. With factory springs you can demonstrate this: if you retract slide 1/2 inch or so, it will not return to battery under its own power. Interaction of case with extractor causes this. My opinion is that Ruger kept the springs light so women could operate slide. Of the two options, I consider the Wolffe springs to be an essential addition. They're offered in three weights with 13 lbs being the highest.
The LCP "chews on" factory guide rods but not the precisely machined and properly hardened BT version. I like it.
No. Both are optional. Google BT Guide Rods. The heavier Wolffe springs reduce felt recoil and insure that slide goes into battery without fail. With factory springs you can demonstrate this: if you retract slide 1/2 inch or so, it will not return to battery under its own power. Interaction of case with extractor causes this. My opinion is that Ruger kept the springs light so women could operate slide. Of the two options, I consider the Wolffe springs to be an essential addition. They're offered in three weights with 13 lbs being the highest.
The LCP "chews on" factory guide rods but not the precisely machined and properly hardened BT version. I like it.
thanks!
I'll give both a try if I can find them here
Some of the LCP's run with stock springs and some (possibly most early ones) will not. I recommend the Wolff spring calibration-pack, if yours doesn't want to run. Start with the heavy and work down. The guide rods seem to last about 500 rounds before getting chewed up too badly and I believe they only cost $2. They'll give you "one" free if you call.. There's a pretty good LCP forum, but don't post/talk about much else or they'll delete your account. The management particularly dislikes 1911's.. Ron
mallowpufft
04-21-12, 20:59
So I picked up an LCP yesterday and ran 50 rounds of PMC Bronze and 50 rounds of Wolf (walmart was out of WWB so those were my options). I also put half a box of Hornady Z-Max (only option and at $20 bucks a box for green Critical Defense I couldn't pass it up)
I put the Wolf through first and every 3-4 shots I had a FTE/Stovepipe. Round 40-50 no malfunctioning. Finished off that box and put the PMC through it.
2 FTEs between 50-70. After that no more ejection malfunctions. Put the half box of hollow points through w/o issue.
However I did have frequent issues with the slide not returning to full battery pretty regularly.
Hopped on here and did a search and found this thread. Got the Wolff tuning kit ordered. I'll hold off on the guide rod till I see how that works out.
Now on to a good holster.
Any of you tried the Trojan Tactical Bandito holster? I'm not huge on "mexican" carry but I'm paranoid about leaving the trigger so exposed. Seems like it might be a viable option with a button for the paracord loop to hook on to stitched inside my pockets.
It's best to blame my misspelled words on autocorrect.
I now have two LCP's and both have worked correctly 100%. If you did not clean the piece before shooting, this omission may be part of the problem. I strongly suggest that you perform a fluff and buff on your pistol. Google this. The result of f&b will be smoother operation through reduced friction. 500 grit sandpaper is excellent along with Flitz polish. Avoid power tools, and you can't screw up.
It is essential that you remove ALL grit and residue left on the metal after polishing. Spend lots of time doing this last step
I really do like these little pistols and shoot them well; however, I'm fully aware that their caliber is marginal at best.
Mine love Frog Lube, which you should try if you haven't. I bought my F L from the distinguished Arizona Frog Lube distributor(IRG)who's usually pestering insurgents, subversives, and such yet manages to ship out the product at the same time.
mallowpufft
04-21-12, 21:54
First thing I did last night after I put the kids to bed was to strip it, clean it, polish the feed ramps, clean it again and lube it up with M-Pro 7. Usually works well.
I haven't had a chance to try Frog Lube. $17 for a tube is hard to justify to the wife right now.
During my googling I saw it recommended to check for burrs in the slide and frame where they mate so I'll be checking those tomorrow. It's a little gun so I'm guessing those are more of a potential problem due to tighter tolerances than what I'm used to shooting.
It's best to blame my misspelled words on autocorrect.
mallowpufft
04-24-12, 23:35
My Wolff springs were waiting for me when I got home from work yesterday so I put the 13# ones in to start.
I also took a photo of the polished feed ramp. This is pretty much the same polish I give to all my semi-auto handguns but if it doesn't look right I can polish more.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7280/7111694261_a469d51eec_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/harner_bill/7111694261/)
IMG_0468 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/harner_bill/7111694261/)
As I was cleaning it from my range time I noticed that on the inside on the edge of the magwell was a sharp, raised spot. Not sure if it's normal or not but here's a picture I tried to get of it. The bright spot is the raised/sharp area.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5239/7111692603_82bdc38b35_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/harner_bill/7111692603/)
IMG_0456 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/harner_bill/7111692603/)
The feed ramp looks great. The raised spot can be removed with sandpaper. On the metal frame you may later discover slightly raised areas caused by peening of the steel slide against the aluminum frame. If so, you can remove it or them the same way. Most likely you won't have any, and if you do, it will probably be just one. They don't reappear. This occurrence is seen in other pistols with aluminum frames--not just LCP's.
Firing will produce rub marks on top chamber end of barrel when slide rides over it, and same will be found on corresponding slide area. Polishing these areas will further reduce friction.
Liberally lube trigger/hammer areas for a better trigger pull. Wrap several thick rubber bands around the grip for a better grasp and to increase the space between trigger and your hand.
Avoid staging the trigger--just pull it straight through and you will will see that hit what you shoot at.
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