View Full Version : Lets Talk Bows!
First off I'll say that I pretty much know nothing about bows. I know a few of the types of bows out there, but not much else. At least not enough to be dangerous. I was going to do some of my own research, but I figured I would start here instead of unknowingly coming across "TOS version for archery" forum :p. I figure that if guys here know the difference in quality between firearms, then they would about bows if it interests them.
What I am looking for is a bow that is simple in design, simple to learn and shoot well, easy to maintain, and hopefully won't put too big a dent in my checkbook. I dunno, maybe I'm asking for too much, but like I said, I don't know what I don't know about bows.
This is something that I would use to hunt with primarily. And as you guessed, I put it in this forum due to this being something I would like to add to any "preps" that I may or may not have ;). There is something to be said about the ability to take game silently.
So have at it fellas, teach me!
If this is strictly a "society is intact I can get odds and ends" bow, a Bear Archery and Mission bows are hard to beat for the price. The absolute best being Mathews, Hoyt, PSE and others. Before my shoulder injury I was using an Archery Research AR31 (now defunct) with good results.
You will find that Archers maybe as vicious or more so about their gear than gun owners.
I would think that a true survival bow would be one that could shoot handmade arrows without turning them into splinters. A good Bear or Hoyt recurve (traditional) would suit this purpose.
I'm only 1/4 step ahead of you, but do own a bow, have killed animals with a bow, and have shot 3-D archery courses with a bow.
I'm not sure if you need to spend a lot to fill the niche/need of a bow.
I filled all the needs of a bow by spending about $500 on a PSE, arrows, broadheads, target points, a fitting/tuning, a quiver and some string "silencers".
A friend of mine has a top of the line Mathews, and I'll be damned if I can find a reason to jump up to that level for my very, very basic needs. This coming from a guy who tries to own the best, in most things.
If this means I am DPMS'ing it with a PSE, I'd like to know to stay in my lane. :D
One more thing, bows (compounds) are extremely user sensitive. They have to "fit" you, meaning draw length, draw weight, peep sight placement, etc.
Do not buy a used bow that "feels" right, go to a Pro shop and get fitted, shoot several different examples they have on hand.
I bought mine more than 10 years ago, but this would be about the equivalent to what I got at the time:
http://www.pse-archery.com/products/category/Rally/445.5.1.1.42026.54387.0.0.0
I bought mine more than 10 years ago, but this would be about the equivalent to what I got at the time:
http://www.pse-archery.com/products/category/Rally/445.5.1.1.42026.54387.0.0.0
Considering that thing slings arrows @ 300+ fps its a certified deer killer, remember the Native Americans did it with 100-150 fps :D.
loganp0916
02-29-12, 14:49
You probably want either a compound bow or a crossbow. I used to have a crossbow and now have a compound bow. So much fun. I like the compound bow more. It's sooo different from a rifle. There's a lot more to it.
A crossbow is pretty much what it looks like. You pull the string back to cock it, load the arrow, point, and pull the trigger.
A compound bow is a little more complicated. You have to pull it back, hold (which just about all bows have a "let off point," not sure what its really called, but it reduces weight so you can hold it back easier), look through the peep sight line up the pin you need to use, and release. All the while not shaking from holding the string back too long.
-I have a Diamond Outlaw. Cost like $499. Then when you add the skb case, arrows, field points, broad heads, a release, speed bag, etc. the cost goes up pretty damn quickly. I got lucky, I needed a bow, "lost" my crossbow and in a pinch, went to gander mtn. (what was close) and the guy there actually seemed to know his shit and helped me a lot. He let me test a bear and the diamond which were tuned to the same pull weight and the diamond felt faster and better overall. And the bear was $100 more. Hope this helps some.
And i know there are guys that know far more than I so don't take everything I say as absolute perfect info. Thing this has been my experience.
ETA: NEVER DRY FIRE A BOW! It can break the limbs which will void the warranty and you might as well throw it in the trash.
Just wanted to jump in and say that we're headed on the right track here...I will always primarily use a firearm for defensive or hunting applications (read: stabilized society), but it would be nice to have the option of a bow (read: un-stabilized society), for WAY more than just a couple reasons.
Like I said, I don't know much about bows, but to me, my role would need to be filled by something that is very simple (design and use) and easy to maintain.
IE: If a recurve bow is equivalent to the "KISS" method for AR's, but moving up to a compound bow is equivalent to slapping on an Aimpoint, then I may be leaning more towards the "KISS" method. Now, if the difference in shootability/usability between the two options is much greater than the difference between "KISS" method and the "Aimpoint" method, then I may want to rethink going the recurve route....hope that makes sense.
Also, SHIVAN, did you end up going the recurve route? Sounds like you might have...oh, and I don't want to DPMS it either :p
Edit, saw your next post. Thanks SHIVAN.
Recurve doesn't have pulleys, and it means you are basically holding the full draw weight or damn near the full draw weight until you release the string.
I went compound and aluminum arrows. I wanted durability, and at the time carbon arrows were still kind of fragile. Or at least not as durable as aluminum, that may have changed.
loganp0916
02-29-12, 15:08
I have carbon arrows. They work well.
When you first buy a bow, get cheap arrows. They have arrows from $30 to like $80 and above for 6 arrows. It sucks shooting at targets in your back yard on the edge of the woods, ****ing up, shooting a little high, and losing a damn expensive arrow, or a few of them
One more thing, bows (compounds) are extremely user sensitive. They have to "fit" you, meaning draw length, draw weight, peep sight placement, etc.
Do not buy a used bow that "feels" right, go to a Pro shop and get fitted, shoot several different examples they have on hand.
Ryans right on the money here. I can't stress it enough. The best bang for the buck out there is the new offering from bowtech. My buddy just picked up a complete setup for around $675.
On another note when I bought my new bow (Martin exile) I thought the same thing you have. The pros of course is that's its quiet and fairly cheap to operate. The downside is that its big and goofy to carry around if it were a shtf situation. It doesn't seem so but its awkward. Takes up alot of room considering. Them there's the problem of where I find arrows or broadheads if I lose them and can't go to a store. How do I restring it if it would need down the road.
I'm not trying to detest you from getting one because honestly I absolutely love mine. I shoot it as much as my ar. One of the most rewarding things to take an animal with and just plain try to master. Just wouldn't be on my list to grab when the world is ending unless I absolutely know it won't be a burden.
loganp0916
02-29-12, 15:25
Ryans right on the money here. I can't stress it enough. The best bang for the buck out there is the new offering from bowtech. My buddy just picked up a complete setup for around $675.
On another note when I bought my new bow (Martin exile) I thought the same thing you have. The pros of course is that's its quiet and fairly cheap to operate. The downside is that its big and goofy to carry around if it were a shtf situation. It doesn't seem so but its awkward. Takes up alot of room considering. Them there's the problem of where I find arrows or broadheads if I lose them and can't go to a store. How do I restring it if it would need down the road.
I'm not trying to detest you from getting one because honestly I absolutely love mine. I shoot it as much as my ar. One of the most rewarding things to take an animal with and just plain try to master. Just wouldn't be on my list to grab when the world is ending unless I absolutely know it won't be a burden.
+1
The only way I would really take my bow in shtf would be if I had a vehicle and plenty of room for it. And that is only because it would be nice for hunting because of the quiet factor.
+1
The only way I would really take my bow in shtf would be if I had a vehicle and plenty of room for it. And that is only because it would be nice for hunting because of the quiet factor.
Or unable to own firearms (hey I wanna believe I would fight it out with the feds to keep my guns too, probly not gonna happen tho).
Snap shooting, traditionals do it compounds dont.
Or unable to own firearms (hey I wanna believe I would fight it out with the feds to keep my guns too, probly not gonna happen tho).
Snap shooting, traditionals do it compounds dont.
By all means. If its the only and best weapon I can manage i'm gonna use the shit out of it. If I can choose my ar tho. Its a no brainer.
By all means. If its the only and best weapon I can manage i'm gonna use the shit out of it. If I can choose my ar tho. Its a no brainer.
Yes sir, sorry for derail OP.
Get carbon arrows no matter what you get, bend a carbon arrow then bend an aluminum arrow...
If this is strictly a "society is intact I can get odds and ends" bow, a Bear Archery and Mission bows are hard to beat for the price. The absolute best being Mathews, Hoyt, PSE and others. Before my shoulder injury I was using an Archery Research AR31 (now defunct) with good results.
You will find that Archers maybe as vicious or more so about their gear than gun owners.
I would think that a true survival bow would be one that could shoot handmade arrows without turning them into splinters. A good Bear or Hoyt recurve (traditional) would suit this purpose.
Op sorry if we did get out of whack. I will second this for you tho. This is pretty sound advice if that's a route your interested in. recurve bows have been used to kill things for centuries. At the archery range I go to I've seen guys be pretty deadly with them. Granted that's target shooting and I haven't witnessed any game taken with one but its completely plausible. They master them to the point where they are not even holding then back. Because of the smoothness of the draw on a recurve they can keep the sight on target and let go when their draw is complete. I'll post a video of an impressive lady for a reference to what I mean. A recurve will save you some wait as well and because they have a lower velocity a handmade arrow isn't out of the question.
Op sorry if we did get out of whack. I will second this for you tho. This is pretty sound advice if that's a route your interested in. recurve bows have been used to kill things for centuries. At the archery range I go to I've seen guys be pretty deadly with them. Granted that's target shooting and I haven't witnessed any game taken with one but its completely plausible. They master them to the point where they are not even holding then back. Because of the smoothness of the draw on a recurve they can keep the sight on target and let go when their draw is complete. I'll post a video of an impressive lady for a reference to what I mean. A recurve will save you some wait as well and because they have a lower velocity a handmade arrow isn't out of the question.
Kind of weird quoting myself but here the link to that video as promised.
http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F%3Fclient%3Dmv-verizon-us&client=mv-verizon-us&gl=US#/watch?v=kjuwL3kiXOw
arbninftry
02-29-12, 17:19
Recurve doesn't have pulleys, and it means you are basically holding the full draw weight or damn near the full draw weight until you release the string.
I went compound and aluminum arrows. I wanted durability, and at the time carbon arrows were still kind of fragile. Or at least not as durable as aluminum, that may have changed.
True as far as the pulleys. However, on a compound you have to pull full lenght to make a shot. On a recurve you can short pull for a quick shot in the brush. Most bow hunters end up trying to stalk deer as well, and if they bust up a deer in the brush making a quick shot is key.
As far as quality look up Black Swan archery. They make some very fine recurves. The type your kids will be fighting over when you pass or are no longer able to bow hunt.
Carbon arrows these days are well worth the money, and not as brittle as they used to be.
Thanks for the reply guys, and no worries on the short thread drift. Just know that there is no question as to what I would pick if I had an AR and a bow laying in front of me lol...this is something I am looking into for fun/hunting right now and something that can fill a particular "niche" if the future demands it...
There's alot to consider, but after a little more research, there are alot of things that I like about the recurve that sounds like it might be the right choice. I realize a compound might be faster, but about the only thing I can find as a "con" on the recurve is the "OAL" of the bow...I would prefer a more comopact package...
How about the accuracy/shootability of recurve vs. compound? Can anyone shed some light on that?
Thanks for the reply guys, and no worries on the short thread drift. Just know that there is no question as to what I would pick if I had an AR and a bow laying in front of me lol...this is something I am looking into for fun/hunting right now and something that can fill a particular "niche" if the future demands it...
There's alot to consider, but after a little more research, there are alot of things that I like about the recurve that sounds like it might be the right choice. I realize a compound might be faster, but about the only thing I can find as a "con" on the recurve is the "OAL" of the bow...I would prefer a more comopact package...
How about the accuracy/shootability of recurve vs. compound? Can anyone shed some light on that?
Traditional takes ALOT more practice, any body can shoot a properly tuned compound.
Thanks for the reply guys, and no worries on the short thread drift. Just know that there is no question as to what I would pick if I had an AR and a bow laying in front of me lol...this is something I am looking into for fun/hunting right now and something that can fill a particular "niche" if the future demands it...
There's alot to consider, but after a little more research, there are alot of things that I like about the recurve that sounds like it might be the right choice. I realize a compound might be faster, but about the only thing I can find as a "con" on the recurve is the "OAL" of the bow...I would prefer a more comopact package...
How about the accuracy/shootability of recurve vs. compound? Can anyone shed some light on that?
The lower velocity of the recurve means that you have to be on point accuracy wise. Like I said people have been using them to kill things for centuries. Compounds make the process simpler somewhat. Puts the learning experience on a sharp curve if you will.
I will say that you won't regret buying either as they are an absolute blast to shoot. I'm sure everytime I go to the range I can't pull another arrow.
Question for you if you don't mind. Do you have a long armspan?
The lower velocity of the recurve means that you have to be on point accuracy wise. Like I said people have been using them to kill things for centuries. Compounds make the process simpler somewhat. Puts the learning experience on a sharp curve if you will.
I will say that you won't regret buying either as they are an absolute blast to shoot. I'm sure everytime I go to the range I can't pull another arrow.
Question for you if you don't mind. Do you have a long armspan?
No I wouldn't say long, I'm a 5'8" bulky, compact kind of guy lol
Why?
No I wouldn't say long, I'm a 5'8" bulky, compact kind of guy lol
Why?
Some of the numbers are kind of confusing about compound bows to new shooters. I'll try to go over some basics.
For example a bow that's tuned at 65lbs with 80% let off will feel like 17 to 20lbs when fully drawn. Making precise shots easier. Draw length is horizontal length from your bow hand to your draw hand at full draw.
The longer the draw length the higher potential for higher velocity. For another example my bow is tuned at 65lbs with a 28" draw length. I may be pushing arrows at 300fps. My buddies is 60 lbs with a 31" dl and his is pushing around 320fps. Basically the more time on the string let's it push it for more time.hope that helps understand a little better.
Some of the numbers are kind of confusing about compound bows to new shooters. I'll try to go over some basics.
For example a bow that's tuned at 65lbs with 80% let off will feel like 17 to 20lbs when fully drawn. Making precise shots easier. Draw length is horizontal length from your bow hand to your draw hand at full draw.
The longer the draw length the higher potential for higher velocity. For another example my bow is tuned at 65lbs with a 28" draw length. I may be pushing arrows at 300fps. My buddies is 60 lbs with a 31" dl and his is pushing around 320fps. Basically the more time on the string let's it push it for more time.hope that helps understand a little better.
Ahh ok that definitely helps me make sense of the numbers I was looking at. Thanks for the explanation.
I guess I'll be looking more into the compound bows then...
Ahh ok that definitely helps me make sense of the numbers I was looking at. Thanks for the explanation.
I guess I'll be looking more into the compound bows then...
No problem. Also fyi most outfitters like Cabellas Gander mountain bass PR shop have onsite 10yd ranges where you can test Amy bow you would like recurve and compound. I suggest doing this. There are alot of brands and if the guy at the counter is good they can set you up real good. Beware of internet purchases because like ars you don't always know what bubba did to his hoyt.
arbninftry
03-01-12, 08:02
No problem. Also fyi most outfitters like Cabellas Gander mountain bass PR shop have onsite 10yd ranges where you can test Amy bow you would like recurve and compound. I suggest doing this. There are alot of brands and if the guy at the counter is good they can set you up real good. Beware of internet purchases because like ars you don't always know what bubba did to his hoyt.
This is big... Go shoot a bow, I wish I could have done that with some of my gun purchases.
However, gunshops generally wont let you shoot the new pistol made by company X, you can at lest see what you like and dislike with a bow.
TeamGrazzi
03-01-12, 08:25
I bought a Hoyt compound about 6 years ago and love it! My grandfather is scary good with a bow and he got me into it. You can get "sights" for a compound as well as trigger release. After about 3 months of training I went from never had shot a bow to taking the feathers off arrows at 25 yds. The first time you shear a feather off an arrow already in the target (on purpose) your like hell yeah I am Robin Hood, the second time you do it your like damn it now I have to bust out the repair gear and put on a new feather.
threeheadeddog
03-01-12, 22:19
I have been looking into bows myself. I am somewhat interested in the modern horesebow interpretations such as Kassai. My desire was basically to KISS and have another tool around. My priorities were
1-ability to use improvised/non specific arrows
2-no "parts"(I had a compound when I was a kid that I got all out of wack)
3-something I could learn without need of technical knowledge or any desire to stay "up" on bow culture.
Is this the wrong way to go?
I have been looking into bows myself. I am somewhat interested in the modern horesebow interpretations such as Kassai. My desire was basically to KISS and have another tool around. My priorities were
1-ability to use improvised/non specific arrows
2-no "parts"(I had a compound when I was a kid that I got all out of wack)
3-something I could learn without need of technical knowledge or any desire to stay "up" on bow culture.
Is this the wrong way to go?
Not at all. I think different strokes for different folks. Sounds like you have a plan.
OP,
Definitely get a bow and shoot the hell out of it. Today's compound bows are fantastic! The combination of of parallel limbs and single cams have made fast and forgiving possible in the same bow. You no longer have to tune your bow and a long brace height is easily attainable even in the fastest bows out there.
I haven't done much in the last few years but, I have been an avid bow hunter(deer) for 20+ years. My first deer was taken with a hung cam, birch limb compound from Bear Archery. I have done a bit of traditional recurve target shooting but have never done any instinctive shooting, IE I have always used some sort of mechanical sights.
I started shooting 3-D for fun about 10 years ago and wound up matching with the same two fellows quite regularly. One was a high dollar corporate lawyer who shot an English long bow instinctively(no sights) and the other was an Amish gentleman who had the best Hoyt setup that could be had at the time. Both could out shoot me without effort but the guy with the long bow put both me and the Amish fellow to shame. Without sights or any mechanical advantage at all.
After being an archer for years I have two recommendations.
First, do not get too heavy a draw weight. I’ve seen people who go out and buy a 70+ pound draw weight who can barely draw it, and then only going through some sort of convulsion dance. Trust me; nothing good is coming from that. Compound bows usually come in a 10 – 15 pound range which allows you to start at a lower end and as you progress, develop good form and get the basics you can increase the draw weight.
Second, if possible find someone who is experienced archer that’s willing to mentor you. It’s often easier to develop good form and understand all the nuances if you have a coach. Most experienced archers I know would be happy to do that. Archery shoots and bow shops would be somewhere to look.
You don’t have to spend a mint on a good compound bow. I think a mid-priced bow from a reputable company is all you will need to get started. Good luck and beware, archery can become an addiction.
threeheadeddog
03-03-12, 19:15
Ok since this is in the fieldcraft and survival section I have a question.
If you were not trying to fit into any perticular hunting season/legal peramiters would it not make most sense to go with a traditional/recurveish bow and have a crossbow for the more technical/capable option? Do the crossbows have more performance due to the ability to use a lever to cock them?
Just questions.
Z71Silverado09
03-06-12, 06:16
i own a Hoyt Rampage XT and it has done right by be. i would recommend it to anyone that wants a good bow and thats on a budget
Also, you don't have to buy a new now to get a top quality shooter. Lots of guys get a new bow every year and sell the old one for a lot less than new.
I'd go with a Hoyt or a pse, they are rugged and reliable. 50-60 lbs is plenty fast and easy to draw
juliomorris
03-20-12, 20:39
I have been bow hunting sense I was about 8 and I started out on a recurve which my daughters still shoot. For a survival situation I would go with a recurve perferably a takedown. This allows you to make your own arrows out of wood but it does take more practice to learn to shoot instinctively than a compound with sights. I currently hunt with a PSE compound but I shoot my recurve allot during down time out at the hunting lease just to stay in practice. If you want to get proficient quickly go with a compound.
I always suggest people start out with a low end PSE because I have seen dozens of people start out all gungho but then pretty soon the bow is hanging in the garage collecting dust. The low end PSE bows today were top of the line 5-10 years ago so even the lower end bows are still fast and accurate.
The biggest hurdle when it comes to acuracy is getting the bow set up correctly for you and your style Cabelas usually has some pretty good guys working in their archery section that will set up any bow you purchase I have never dealt with Bass Pro but I would guess they have the same type personel at their stores
SilverTongueDevil
04-15-12, 17:26
First off I'll say that I pretty much know nothing about bows. I know a few of the types of bows out there, but not much else. At least not enough to be dangerous. I was going to do some of my own research, but I figured I would start here instead of unknowingly coming across "TOS version for archery" forum :p. I figure that if guys here know the difference in quality between firearms, then they would about bows if it interests them.
What I am looking for is a bow that is simple in design, simple to learn and shoot well, easy to maintain, and hopefully won't put too big a dent in my checkbook. I dunno, maybe I'm asking for too much, but like I said, I don't know what I don't know about bows.
This is something that I would use to hunt with primarily. And as you guessed, I put it in this forum due to this being something I would like to add to any "preps" that I may or may not have ;). There is something to be said about the ability to take game silently.
So have at it fellas, teach me!
Go to Local Archery Shop find out your draw length and draw strength. While your there shoot the different bow styles there.
Ask first to shoot a Traditional bow...
Then shoot some compounds...
Just do yourself a favor while your there dont buy...
Do some shopping...
If you want to keep it cheap and low cost easy to use fun and low maintenance its going to be hard to bet a Recurve...
If you go this path remember a few things.If you buy used.
Asked the bow owner if he kept it stringed if yes don't buy it.
Look for limb damage if the limbs are cracked or delaminated don't buy it.
Place the bow on its back side to see if they limbs are straight if not don't buy it.
If you go with a compound look for damage on the limbs pulleys and look for cracks and delamination if so dont buy it..
I would look for the newest used compound you can find that is set up. With sights and rest and quiver.
With any bows you buy used before you use them just go back to the store and have them give it a once over.. If you chose a compound have them tune it and fit it to you and your style of shooting.
Arrows go Carbon no matter your bow choice IMO sounds crazy with a traditional bow or compound bow they fly faster, stay straight, durable and accurate. You can shoot them thousands of times and not worry about them as long you dont damage them.
I also like my arrows to run on the heavy side for bow set up but thats just me...
I would also look at getting a fishing set up for any bow you choose...
There well worth the money and time.. Its hell a fun and will be quite a challenge for you. Again this is one of the funnest things to do with a bow... Buy one..
ICANHITHIMMAN
04-15-12, 17:40
I have been shooting bows since I could walk, only got into the compound thing about 10 years ago.
If this is for survival I would look at the PSE coyote its alluminum and fiberglass and it is a take down recurve. Buy extra strings for it and a shit tone of arrows and go practice it will last for ever. You dont need the 55lb draw weight thats for monsters like me go with the 45lb.
Country DeVil
04-18-12, 11:39
is there a good place to get arrows and targets cheap online?
I ordered a PSE Stalker recurve about a week ago and am looking forward to getting back into shooting a bow. I used to shoot my dad's recurve up until I was leaving for college and always had a great time. Never hunted with a bow, just target practice. Should be a fun little distraction on warm summer days.
Picked it up for $116 from Sportsman's Guide. I'm gonna have a buddy of mine help me with arrow selection, quiver and the rest of the accessories. Nice part is, his back yard and my back yard are about 50 meters from each other and he has targets all set up and available to me whenever I want, so that will save me a bit of cash until I decide to go full tilt.
LonghunterCO
06-04-12, 22:34
My son's and wife have expressed a desire to get into archery. The appeal of being able to setout in the backyard and shoot, as a family, has alot of appeal (always looking for another family activity)
For a Survival bow I looked at recurves. I wanted something that I could service/care for with a minimum amount of fuss, and as stated above I wanted the flexability of shooting homemade arrows in a pinch. After some advice from several on another Survival site I think that I have settled on the Samick Sage takedown bow. 3rivers sells them as well as Cabelas and our local Sportsmans Warehouse for $140. In case you want to go up in drawl weight later on they sell replacment limbs. It is tapped for sights/on-bow quiver and the limbs are toolless takedown. Search the net and You Tube there are a bunch of happy owners (some are guys that have much more expensive setups but bought these as a backup bow or for putting under the seat of their truck for hunting on the fly).
http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=2490X
Thanks for the reply guys, and no worries on the short thread drift. Just know that there is no question as to what I would pick if I had an AR and a bow laying in front of me lol...this is something I am looking into for fun/hunting right now and something that can fill a particular "niche" if the future demands it...
There's alot to consider, but after a little more research, there are alot of things that I like about the recurve that sounds like it might be the right choice. I realize a compound might be faster, but about the only thing I can find as a "con" on the recurve is the "OAL" of the bow...I would prefer a more comopact package...
How about the accuracy/shootability of recurve vs. compound? Can anyone shed some light on that?
Years ago as a youth I used to shoot every day and competed nationally in target archery, winning most of the time in my age division. I can't wait to get back in to the sport, I miss it greatly.
Compound
-Faster. With archery it really matters. You are estimating distance and chucking rainbows in the wind. You just missed that javelina at 40 yards because it was really 48 yards away.
-Let off allows for prolonged and easier aiming under less tension=easier to shoot and easier to wait for that perfect shot.
-"valley" serves as an index point for draw length. This means you can pull a recurve back differently from shot to shot without realizing it. But with a compound you hit a wall, making it easy to pull back the same length each time (pull a recurve back farther and arrow goes faster/different)
-More compact
-Not mechanically more accurate, but significantly easier to shoot accurately
Realize that archery will add several more required form/technique elements to shoot accurately when compared to firearms. Compound bows minimize the effects of errors in these elements, but they are still there and can frustrate the hell out of you.
Typically recurve shooters are either competition shooters who choose recurve because it is an olympic sport or they like it for whatever reason, or hunters who want that extra challenge or desire to go back to basics with a "stick bow".
I have some bow skills and I shot a fair amount during the summer months as a kid on an old wood and fiberglass recurve I got from my uncle.
I really like the KISS elements of a good recurve. As far a long term durability, how much maintenance does a compound bow need vice a recurve?
I'm a little biased because I've been a bow guy for over 30 years. I have a compound that I never shoot because there was always something working loose on it. The compound is a good choice if you only pick one up once or twice a year and want to shoot well with it right away.
My personal preference is longbow and recurve.
I hunt mostly with a Black Widow LAG longbow. I love it. When I bought my compound I bought a backup bow. A 65# Hoyt takedown recurve and now use that for bow fishing.
For those who say it takes a lot of practice to shoot traditional I can only say that is not always the case. I've gotten some people into it that it just didn't work for and never will, I've gotten other people into it who picked up the bow and were instantly hitting where they were looking. There's no way to know for sure until you try it.
You need to physically put your hands on every bow you can get hold of and try it out to see what fits you and your style/needs.
If you choose a takedown traditional bow I recommend a short riser and long limbs as opposed to a longer riser and shorter limbs due to stacking.
Shooting traditionally is like throwing a ball. When you learned to throw a ball it took some time to get it right but once you learned you have it forever.....you didn't look at the ball, you looked at your target.
Good luck in your search. For me it's K.I.S.S. Stick and string.
For me it will always be a recurve bow. They along with longbows have killed just about every animal on the planet before firearms or modern compound bows existed. I dont have anything against compounds at all. They are the pinnacle of the sport no doubt. But they require way more upkeep than a recurve or longbow, and in a survival situtation or dare I say a end of the world situation compound bows will work great untill the string breaks, or a cam goes out of alignment or some other silly problem occurs, and then your stuck with a bow that doesn't work, and you yourself likely cant repair. This is where a recurve or longbow really shines. If the string breaks a new one can be improvised in the field, arrows can be made in the field with common materials. And even if the world doesnt end the recurve is just cheaper to maintain and doesnt cost hundreds of dollars to be restrung every few years or more if you shoot alot. Basically even though it isn't the most modern piece of archery equipment, or the easiest to learn the recurve or longbow brings a lot to the fight and will put food on the table if you learn how to use it. Don't count it out
I'm a certified bow addict. I have shot compound for right at 20 years. Just played around with traditional bows(recurves and long bows). A average adult that listens can get the basics down on a compound in a couple days to the point of keeping them on a target at 20 yards. A traditional bow is much harder. At my best I could keep em on target at 30 yards after a few months of practice ever day. That could be just me.
In any long term situation I would rather have a compound I can shoot well, but I know it would eventually fail. To many moving parts. But if I was even decent with a traditional rig I would take that.
Brings to mind an old saying. Never the destination, always the journey. Do what you know but strive to learn what you don't. Not sure where it came from but my grandfather taught me that.
I'm a bow nut, too. I have two
Compounds, one take down recurve, one recurve, and two longbows.
In a SS, I'd want the primitive bow 2:1
It will kill animals just as dead.
But, having said that, 30 yds is your MAX effective range. Any further than that and you'll need the compound. Your range is twice as far.
So, just to sum it up, could the bow guys recommend a few entry level to just above entry level recurve bows? I understand the bow basics but I do not know the product lines.
What are your thoughts on arrows - shafts and heads?
Get you a good PSE or a Bear. (for cheap)Net one that's a few yrs old so you CAN get it cheap.
Make sure it's got good strings and cables on it, that they are not frayed.
GET CARBON ARROWS they are the norm, now, and they stay straight.!they won't bend.
Make a quiver. Then you're good to go start shooting
So, just to sum it up, could the bow guys recommend a few entry level to just above entry level recurve bows? I understand the bow basics but I do not know the product lines.
What timing. I purchased a recurve bow for my daughters who’ve become excited about archery after reading “The Hunger Games” series of books. Obviously I didn’t want to spend a bunch on something that they may not stick with. I looked at several low cost bows, talked to people and read a LOT. We ended up purchasing a Samick Sage, a takedown recurve bow, for them. Cost was $129 and we just received it today. We have not shot it yet; I just strung it up and looked it over really well. I should be able to answer how it shoots in a week or so but it looks well made. It’s not a $900 Black Widow but for the money I’m impressed. There are many great bows and bow makers out there. I also looked at a PSE Razorback and another one I can’t recall the name of at this moment. To tell the truth, I’m excited about the possibility that my girls will enjoy this and it will become something we can share. And if they don’t, I’m out $129.
Disclaimer: I’m not an expert, a pro class archer or anything similar but I’ve shot compounds, recurves and longbows for nearly 35 years. If this bow turns out to be a loser I’ll let you know.
Just wanted to say thanks for all the info and suggestions in this thread guys. I kinda stepped away from it and let you guys take it over with your input, but I've been following it. Thanks again!
If you're talking pure prep for the apocalypse... Learn to make a longbow from PVC piping. It actually works amazingly well!
Thread resurrection as I too have found myself looking at bows after my first deer season. Have zeroed in on the Hoyt Ignite with the Ready to Hunt package. Any insight on this setup as a beginner?
Thread resurrection as I too have found myself looking at bows after my first deer season. Have zeroed in on the Hoyt Ignite with the Ready to Hunt package. Any insight on this setup as a beginner?
Brace height looks good, for a beginner I'd recommend 7.5 and above which this bow is 8".
As most beginners will tear up a forearm.
Keep in mind fundamentals
A short axle to axle bow that shoots fast can be very frustrating to a new shooter. It's like shooting a pistol, small misform on the shot = big difference at the target.
If it's your very first bow you may want to try something a little longer axle to axle and a bit slower that will be more forgiving and still kill a deer just fine. If you do decide on a short fast bow just remember proper form and consistency is everything. Good luck!
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