View Full Version : How to cut DD Mk18 rail to fit Noveske SB
Is there somebody out there will do this kind of service? thanks.
You could probably do it yourself with a dremel. It doesnt appear to be a huge shop job.
Here are a couple Ive dug up:
I have that exact setup, and had to cut a hole in the rail to adjust the Switchblock.
http://i1018.photobucket.com/albums/af305/nickbooras/AR15/CIMG2629.jpg
-DD MK18 RIS II Rail W/Gas Block Cut out
-Noveske Switchblock
-10.5 Inch Fluted BBL
-YHM suppressor adapter/flash hider
-CompM4
-Troy Flip Sights
-missing something I'm sure
http://imgsrc.com/imgbank/sbr1.jpg
http://imgsrc.com/imgbank/sbr2.jpg
ETA: looking at the photos... The second set appears to have more material taken off towards the rear exposing more of the gas tube. The first one i think is just right.
You could probably do it yourself with a dremel. It doesnt appear to be a huge shop job.
Here are a couple Ive dug up:
ETA: looking at the photos... The second set appears to have more material taken off towards the rear exposing more of the gas tube. The first one i think is just right.
Aren't they of the same gun? :confused:
Aren't they of the same gun? :confused:
I don't think so. The cuts around the gas block appear to be different and the muzzle devices aren't the same.
thanks for the info, btw, what is the different between those 2 barrels offer by Noveske, stainless vs. n4 lite, which will last longer? I can't find any source to purchase n4 lite barrel w/SB just the stainless version w/SB, can someone point me to the right directions? thanks.
fallenromeo
03-02-12, 10:37
I thought the second rifle was of the DD RISII with the cut out for the FSB. Are we sure that is modified for the SB and not the standard cut out for the FSB?
MikeCLeonard
03-02-12, 11:26
I thought the second rifle was of the DD RISII with the cut out for the FSB. Are we sure that is modified for the SB and not the standard cut out for the FSB?
The M4A1 FSP RISII you're thinking of is much longer than both of these MK18 rails. It would go completely past the end of the barrel.
fallenromeo
03-02-12, 12:32
Gotcha. Thanks for clearing that up.
I know this thread is a little older but I wanted to add to it and possibly help out the next guy.
I put together a MK18 Clone using a Noveske 10.5" switchblock barrel. after seeing the picture at the top of this page I knew it was possible but there weren't any real detailed pics of what or where it needs to be cut for it to clear.
I tried to trim out the bare minimum as to not have any large gaps
here is how it turned out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/SS8UUP/IMG_2625.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/SS8UUP/IMG_2630.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/SS8UUP/IMG_2631.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/SS8UUP/IMG_2634.jpg
Magic_Salad0892
11-15-12, 15:59
That's really sick, man. Great job.
It's a great setup, my only complaint is that my thumb rests right on the exposed gas block. I had to cover it partially with a rail panel and position my Scout Light to act as a stop so I wouldn't burn my thumb (again). I would prefer a hinged cover or simple slot to adjust the gas block with a hex key or other tool - I don't change the setting often enough to need tool-less adjustment.
I know this thread is a little older but I wanted to add to[/B][/B] it and possibly help out the next guy.
I put together a MK18 Clone using a Noveske 10.5" switchblock barrel. after seeing the picture at the top of this page I knew it was possible but there weren't any real detailed pics of what or where it needs to be cut for it to clear.
I tried to trim out the bare minimum as to not have any large gaps
here is how it turned out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/SS8UUP/IMG_2625.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/SS8UUP/IMG_2630.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/SS8UUP/IMG_2631.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/SS8UUP/IMG_2634.jpg
damn I wanna do this but I'm scared, how did the anodize holds up, did it chip off any near the edges, did u use a dremel? What did u use to cover the exposed metal once cut?
If you want a pro job on it, with a re-finish, contact ADCO Firearms. They can do it.
damn I wanna do this but I'm scared, how did the anodize holds up, did it chip off any near the edges, did u use a dremel? What did u use to cover the exposed metal once cut? I used a Dremel with cutoff wheel, The anodize held up great, no chips or anything. If you look close at the 3rd and 4th pics down you can see where I Inadvertently put a couple small nicks in it caused by slipping with the dremel. When I was done I grabbed a black sharpie and covered the couple of bare aluminum edges. Maybe not the most professional way of doing it but it looks great and works flawless.
Does that pointy piece get in the way of the block? Do you wish you would have just shaved it straight across instead of leaving that section? I hate to screw up a $300 rail, I sent adco a email see how much he'd charge if he did service.
Does that pointy piece get in the way of the block? Do you wish you would have just shaved it straight across instead of leaving that section? I hate to screw up a $300 rail, I sent adco a email see how much he'd charge if he did service.
There is no interference what so ever, you can see in this pic the SB is flipped down towards it and there is still plenty of clearance. I prefer it being there, I didn't want a large opening with lots of gaps. The pic at the top of the page has it trimmed out straight across which also looks good but I prefer the way I did mine, No regrets.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/SS8UUP/IMG_2631.jpg
One more question, is that a noveske barrel with the SB, or did you add the SB to a DD barrel. I have the DD version and wonder if I need to mess with the port size.
One more question, is that a noveske barrel with the SB, or did you add the SB to a DD barrel. I have the DD version and wonder if I need to mess with the port size.its a factory paired Noveske 10.5 barrel and SB. I cant help you with port size??
What I did
i bought a factory DD MK18 and have a SDN6, i ditched the barrel and upgraded to a Noveske 10.5 switchblock. the rail needed a relief cut to accomodate the block. i hacked it at first to get a test fit, then took it to a machinist to "clean it up" for me. looks good, i even used testors paint to cover the bare alumi. i nicked it a couple spots, but it i can deal with it. once i get it all put together, it'll be on like dooky kong.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/skt4271/007_zpsa2077287.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/skt4271/IMAG0239_zps03052545.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/skt4271/IMAG0238_zps359995a0.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/skt4271/IMAG0237_zps4d59c0d3.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/skt4271/IMAG0240_zps9376478e.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/skt4271/IMAG0241_zps09d8c789.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/skt4271/IMAG0243_zps7bd5cf82.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/skt4271/IMAG0244_zps8a27fcfb.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/skt4271/IMAG0246_zps6df8861e.jpg
I might go in this direction.
Anyone do this with a centurion or geissele?
I did my Geissele Mk2 13"2396323964
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