Barrel nut problem with TRX Alpha rail

[r1013]

I have a Daniel Defense m4v7. The rail is to short for my long arms, so I got one of the new TRX Alpha Rails in 15". This evening I took off the DD rail and Barrel nut. I then put on a standard barrel nut. I torqued it to 30 pounds. It needed to go just a little further to line up the gas tube. I tried to torque it a bit more but it wouldn't move. When I went to back it off to (re-torque) it, it would not come loose??? I tried and tried and its stuck??? Its only torqued at 30-40ish and with the torque at 80 it wont come back loose.

So I guess I need to cut it off with my dremel and order another barrel nut. Any suggestions on how to remove it before I do so?

Also something else I noticed... The TRX Alpha rail is lined up the way it is. YET... the barrel nut needs to come one more tooth over for the gas tube to line up. It looks like if I line the gas tube up, then the Alpha rail wont line up??? Does this sound normal? If so, I would need to dremel off the tooth at the top so the gas tube will pass through, while allowing the Alpha rail to line up? This is my first m4. Are other M4s gas tubes off set a tooth to the left or right?

[Fried Chicken Blowout]

When you get the TRX rail it place is should be pretty loose and be able to index off the upper once the barrel nut is in proper position. Your barrel nut sounds a little odd. What vice block are you using? Ive lifted my 230 pounds off the ground trying to break a barrel nut loose before. I would hose the nut down with a penetrating lubricant and let is sit over night before you start cutting stuff. It might be cross threaded or the threads were not clean to start. Once you get it off clean it all up before attempting to reinstall it.

If you get the barrel nut in the right place the TRX Alpha rail will install no problem. I've installed a bunch of them and they are fool proof.

[r1013]

I love the name "Fried Chicken Blowout"! Pretty funny.

I had not pushed the rail all the way on as I was worried about the Barrel nut. I pushed it on, and I see how you can index it to the correct position once it gets to a certain point. Ahhhh!

Im using a standard vise rigged with towels and foam.

As far as being dirty. The rifle is a month old with approx 400 rounds through it. The threads were clean and the nut was new.

Im going to place an order for another barrel nut tonight, just in case this one doesnt work out (since there cheap). I'll spray it as you suggested and let it set over night. I would have done it tonight but I had family come from out of town right as I finished my last post.

Thanks for the advice.

[An Undocumented Worker]

Did you put grease or anti-seize on the threads before installing the barrel nut?

It also always takes more torque to remove a nut or bolt from an assembly than it takes to install it due to how the surfaces interface.

The rail should line up just fine with the barrel nut in the proper position. So remove the nut with the wrench, not a cutting tool and make sure nothing is stripped or cross threaded and be sure reassemble it with appropriate lubricant.

[Fried Chicken Blowout]

Your issue is with the way you're securing the upper. You need to have the vice block if you want to get any torque on the nut...

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22385/Product/AR-15-M16-UPPER-RECEIVER-ACTION-BLOCK

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=17094/Product/AR-15-AR-STYLE-308-UPPER-RECEIVER-BLOCK


Get one or the other and you're in business. I would never consider attempting to change a barrel without one. Midwayusa.com also carries them.

[r1013]

An Undocumented Worker- Nope no "anti-seize", just some fresh wheel bearing grease. It also cant... shouldn't be cross threaded. I hand screwed it up until it stopped and it screwed effortlessly. THen I set the torque wrench to 30.

Fried Chicken Blowout- I ordered an "Upper Receiver Block" as you suggested as well as an extra barrel nut just in case. I assumed... I could do it without it. I was thinking 30-80 pounds isn't much. Guess I was wrong when it comes to an AR. Buying one was not the problem, as I want to do everything the right way, but waiting yet again is... was... It took 3 weeks for just the barrel nut and wrenches to come in stock. Its so irritating to try to order anything for an AR as everyone seems to be out of stock of whatever I want to order... then its wait, wait... a year later lol... Rrrrr... Of course neither of the gun smiths or any of the gun stores in my town carry anything that has anything to do with an AR except for ammo. Oh well, I need more practice with my pistol anyway. Thanks again, and have a nice evening.

[rubber ducky]

FWIW -

Having the proper tools help. If you haven't tried, stick the upper in the freezer, this may cause the upper to shrink enough so that you can get the nut loose. Also, with the upper properly vice'd, 'shock' the wrench to loosen the barrel nut. Get the wrench in position and give it a good whack with a rubber mallet or something.

If your main concern is that the teeth of the barrel nut not lining up properly for the gas tube, the receiver truing tool thing:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20220/Product/AR-15-M16-UPPER-RECEIVER-LAPPING-TOOL

may help - it can take down the face of the receiver just enough for you to be able to turn the barrel nut the right amount.

hope this helps,

rd

[r1013]

rubber ducky- I just dry fitted the barrel nut and rail prior to, attempting to install. I was curious how in went together. The teeth of the barrel nut perfectly slid through slots on the rail. Once you get so far it stops, because it touches the clamps inside. What I didnt know, was when the clamps are loosened, the rail will go another 1/4" and into another circular slot where it can be turned to line it up. Ahh! All is good now. Once the block comes in I'll be back in business.

[strojo]

You'll be much happier with the block. I had a similar situation years ago with a barrel nut and found the block to be a lifesaver--I don't worry about destroying things with too much force knowing that the block is properly holding the upper receiver.